regalrocket

The pickup might effect the starting, but has nothing to do with the lighting half. Its just a junk stator.

As a 10 year aviation mechanic and FAA licensed inspector, commercial pilot (large piston twins as well = high altitude) and flight instructor, I will try to give some facts as I know them. 1. 100LL has ALOT of lead, something on the order of 5 times what normal automotive leaded gasoline had back when it was at the pumps. 2, This lead WILL leave deposits on piston tops and exhaust components (which accounts for it being "dirty" fuel) Lead is a white looking substance when it is deposited, but with the addition of our two stroke oil staining it with carbon, it looks like heavy oil deposits. 3. It is VERY HIGH quality fuel. A petrol engineer that I know said it is much much better than normal pump gasoline. It has very high quality additives, that will not break down. Aviation gasoline can last many years with zero breakdown issues. Its high quality is the reason that it smells totally different, and does not stink like autofuel. 4. It has a lower vapor pressure for high altitude use (similar to winter autofuels). USELESS AIRPLANE FACTS : Piston powered aircraft can rarely go over 14,000 feet unless supercharged, and if they are supercharged, normally 25,000 feet is the absolute altitude that can be obtained. Most 100ll aircraft never get above 8,000 feet. 5. The fuel is slower burning than normal gasoline. This is a good property for slower turning aircraft engines that never go above 3,000 rpm (except for the newer rotax engines). Automotive race gas is also a slower burning fuel, hence the high octane ratings. Take it for what its worth. My personal opinion is that I would run race gas in a banshee just because of the lead deposit issue. Many aircraft were originally designed for 80 octane avgas, but with that no longer in production, we have to use 100ll. It makes a big mess of the exhaust and piston domes, leaving deposits that are heavy. We sometimes mix normal auto fuel to achieve a higher compustion temprature to help burn these deposits off, or keep them from developing. Avgas would be a great fuel for a drag machine or something that doesn't get alot of miles on it. But for a trail machine, I will keep burning autofuel. I wish avgas was better, as it doesn't stink 1/4 as bad as autofuel, but there is alot of lead in that stuff. Thats my 2 cents.

BTT

My formula: PTR Midrange pipes Boysen power reeds 4+ timing good air filter With those pipes, the power is low, and very strong. Its no wonder that these pipes were made for motocross.

I will pile on and say ditch the twist throttle. I had the same sort of thing happen when a grip came off of a 250R ATC when I was leaving the top of a large table top. I wadded it up pretty good, and ever since then I only use thumb throttles on ATV/ATV's. You can easily hang on and get off of the throttle with a thumb throttle. With a twist, not so easy. Just my opinion.

I am looking for 2+ a-arms. In decent shape, but beat up paint and stuff are just fine, as long as the price is right. Thanks guys.

I have a stock suspension bike, with a 4+ timing, PTR mids, Boysen stock replacement power reeds and nice tires. It is down right mean on the trails. Hangs the tires nice when I want to, goes like a banshee when i want to. I jumps just fine for what I do, which is very agressive trails. I think most think that parts make a machine fast. Make the motor make power where you want it, in this case low to mid (ptr mids are amazing pipes for this, my buddy with toomeys is getting rid of his pipes for these due to the nice trail power) and then spend the rest on riding it hard and practicing. You will find its weaknesses then and fix those to suit yourself.

Ebay, West Coast Graphics, kit with decals and seat cover was 65 bucks, awsome kit. I am going to order another kit for when this one is all scratched to crap. I love it for the price. The flash makes it look orange, but its really a nice nice red.

I did the exact thing, and love them.

I worked in a high performance auto store, and we had people all the time wanting to buy stuff like this. They asked my opinion, and I told them that they probably didn't want it. I have 10 years of building very high HP auto engines, and you can't tell me that you can induce a swirl in the stream (that causes a restriction, you have to get the energy to accelerate the air somehow) and that swirl would continue past a partially cracked throttle blade, an intake runner split and then threw an intake valve and still be there to increase HP. Swirling air going into a carburator just makes a mess of the fuel metering. Its a fuckin joke, but people will buy them by the thousands.

You will waste alot of time and money in supplies, and it will crack all to crap the first time it get hit by a tree or rolled. Save for some cheap plastics.

I am looking for some Aftermarket +2 A-Arms. Like everyone I am on a budget, so reasonable is good. Thanks.

Please Please!!!! do a writup. I have a few applications that I would LOVE to convert to LED, and since you have done it, let us know EVERYTHING. I have surfire CREE LED flashlights that are amazing, and would love to have the same life, shock resistance and output charastics in a headlight that doesn't cost 500 bucks. Thanks.

1 1/2 out

Stock engine, PTR mids, Boysen power reeds, 4 degree advance, aftermarket foam air filter 27.5 pilots. Its in the 40's here, but even with 310 jets it still feels lean in the mid range. I had the needles one up from the bottom, and it still had a bog when you first got the roll going from a dead stop. I just wanted to know what other people are running for jetting with these pipes. It seems like 310 is way fat, but it runs great on the top end, plugs look rich, but the midrange is still lean. Thanks guys.

Get one of these, no worrying about getting stuck on wheel wells. Sarcasm warning.

As a 10 year aviation mechanic and FAA licensed inspector, I will try to give some facts as I know them. 1. 100LL has ALOT of lead, something on the order of 5 times what normal automotive leaded gasoline had back when it was at the pumps. 2, This lead WILL leave deposits on piston tops and exhaust components (which accounts for it being "dirty" fuel) Lead is a white looking substance when it is deposited, but with the addition of our two stroke oil staining it with carbon, it looks like heavy oil deposits. 3. It is VERY HIGH quality fuel. A petrol engineer that I know said it is much much better than normal pump gasoline. It has very high quality additives, that will not break down. Aviation gasoline can last many years with zero breakdown issues. Its high quality is the reason that it smells totally different, and does not stink like autofuel. 4. It has a lower vapor pressure for high altitude use (similar to winter autofuels). USELESS AIRPLANE FACTS : Piston powered aircraft can rarely go over 14,000 feet unless supercharged, and if they are supercharged, normally 25,000 feet is the absolute altitude that can be obtained. Most 100ll aircraft never get above 8,000 feet. 5. The fuel is slower burning than normal gasoline. This is a good property for slower turning aircraft engines that never go above 3,000 rpm (except for the newer rotax engines). Automotive race gas is also a slower burning fuel, hence the high octane ratings. Take it for what its worth. My personal opinion is that I would run race gas in a banshee just because of the lead deposit issue. Many aircraft were originally designed for 80 octane avgas, but with that no longer in production, we have to use 100ll. It makes a big mess of the exhaust and piston domes, leaving deposits that are heavy. We sometimes mix normal auto fuel to achieve a higher compustion temprature to help burn these deposits off, or keep them from developing. Avgas would be a great fuel for a drag machine or something that doesn't get alot of miles on it. But for a trail machine, I will keep burning autofuel. I wish avgas was better, as it doesn't stink 1/4 as bad as autofuel, but there is alot of lead in that stuff. Thats my 2 cents.

Fastbanshee has the setup. I have run those studs, and they are way better than pretty much anything else. There is lots of biting surface area, and they will not pull out or over flex the tire. The sled studs are nice, but if your on a lake, they over flex the tire and will pull out from time to time. The screw in studs will dull very quickly on pavement though, so you gotta watch that. Replace them before they lost the hex head, or you will play hell getting them out. In the winter I could smoke people with banshees and 250'rs with a POS big red three wheeler just cause I had awsome traction in the icy conditions. A banshee with studs is just killer in the winter. Good times.

Don't sweat pulling the swingarm pivot bolt to get that. Its very easy, and its not like the thing falls apart once oyu pull the bolt. Support the center of the quad just enough to get the back tires about an inch off the ground. Leave the chain and shock attached, and pull the pivot bolt. You can finess the swingarm the tiny bit that you need to expose the end of that swingarm with the slider. Pull it off, and put a freshly greased version (if its stock it rotates and needs some lube) back on and slide the bolt back in. It takes literally 30 minutes from walking out your door to do it, to cracking a beer and knowing that your all thats man.

Honestly, i agree with the suggestion to get the proper tool. I know that you made a puller and so on. But if you use the puller, you will know why its worth 13 bucks many times over. Just thread it in the flywheel, and then hit it with an impact and the thing jumps off so easy it should be illegal.

Mine had the same issue when i bought it. Very common for those bearings to get loose and turn the space into a race.

Its a pretty good looking quad. Doesn't look like it was messed with too much. I dig those colors.

I would love it if these quads were oil injected,

I'm from Grand Island, so I know the area pretty well. I am a big woods guy, so I can relate to what your lookin for. Really, for your first machine, you want one as stock as possible, and they you can add what you want. Don't get a machine that has had alot of work done to it, unless your 100 percent sure that the work was done right. Once you get it, your gonna want to fix ANYTHING that needs some TLC, then some low end pipes (I recoment Paul Turner Mid-range pipes), a 4 degree advance (most use an adjustible timing plate) and good tires. Really after fixing all the stock stuff, learn how to handle it, and then you will notice areas you want to perfect. Don't go crazy with the mods, you might end up doing the wrong stuff, and without a baseline, you will be shooting in the dark. Everyone has an opion, but only yours matters.

On my older ATC's the airbox had a one way valve that let water drain out of the airbox, but wouldn't let any in. Does anyone know where I could get something like this for a banshee's stock airbox. I ride in water from time, and think that the little piece of tubing that does nothing is kinda silly.