regalrocket

Well after chasing my tail, I am still having hard starting issues, or should I say no start without excessive priming. I rebuilt the carbs, set the float height running, put a new top end on it, and still nothing. Today I pulled the stator cover off and all sorts of nasty water ran out. The stator is pretty rusty, ok, its very rusty. How much will rust effect the stator. I am pretty sure that it can't help at all. Has anyone had a rusty stator cause hard starting, but once running its perfect, replaced the stator and had it start perfectly? Thanks.

Sounds like someone was tinkering, and F'd the wiring harness up. I know the feeling, mine had a key installed, but they cut the plug off of it and just looped the wires. If your harness is as bad as you say, I would really get one off of e-bay, and properly modify it if you have no TORS and then install it.

I was just thinking. I am waiting on some parts to come in, specifically reeds. I did the compression check without the reeds installed. After thinking about it, would the compression be higher cause the cylinders would fill better with the slight pressure the reeds keep in the case?

From the Sig it looks like your military. I am as well, 4 years at Bragg, 1 in Korea at the hump and 3 trips to Afghanisnan. Now I'm back home working with the National Guard, still flying helicopters. I wish I could take this thing to the sands of NC right about now.

That pin you see is just a alignment pin like the slide alignment pin. Remove the main jet, the main jet washer, then use a punch to lightly tap the brass piece through towards the top of the carb. Its in there hand tight, but corrosion kinda requires a light tapping. Not sure about the brass tube, I would leave it alone personally.

Any western new your riders in here? I am looking for good places to take the new toy out.

I'm an aircraft mechanic, and I also build drag cars. I did my sled earlier, so I had the 2 stroke rebuild to a science. Plus I enjoy wrenching. Thanks for the help, I'm getting 120's on it, but wasn't sure if that was correct of not.

Sounds like a spacer crimp. The bearings get loose in there, and get stuck between the carrier and the spacer, and they roll in groves. In doing so, they can crimp the spacer onto the axle. It will come out, but it might have the seal and the bearing from the brake side on the axle with the space, and you can get those off after its out. I would apply some heat to the carrier in the brake side bearing area, to help get the carrier off of the bearing.

Stock heads, no porting, weisco stock replacement (513m06400)

I just assembled my top end, and did a compression check. What is normal for a brand new fresh top end (all stock), with no run time at all? Thanks.

I bought an entire Moose rebuild kit for 15 bucks or so. Came with the needle and seat, stock main, stock pilot, stock pilot air bleed, bowl gasket, idle air screw, and a slide needle and E-clip. For the price of the needle and seat, it seems that the entire kit is a deal, even if you don't need all the parts. Make friends by giving the stock stuff away that your not gonna use

Ok, update. I thought I would be able to just re-ring it. Not so. After closer examination the left piston had burned oil on the bottom of the dome (crankcase side, which means a really hot dome) and after closer inspection, it had a cracked skirt. The reason I removed the FMF fatties was cause it wasn't tuned properly, and it looks like the supposed new rebuild was trashed due to lots of lean running. Both sides had blue and purple ring ends as well, and the top ring was pretty thin. I bought stock rings at first, until I realized that this had Weisco's. Personally, I think the stock rings are better, but all I could get is 2 more Weisco sets, so thats what I went with. After stripping, painting and honing the cylinders, filing true the head (last guy used a wire wheel on it and made a mess of it, hence the silicone he gooped everywhere), I put it all back together. I did an initial conpression check, and got 115 with no break-in (its a cheap tester, not yet calibrated, so take it with a grain of salt). It feels amazingly better. I'm waiting on more parts, but hopefully she will be running early this week, and I can see if it needs more work to get it to start, or if this fixed it.

Yea, I made sure it got a good chance to come up to a good PSI. I just pulled the head and jugs. The head had a TON of high temp silicone on it. It was smushed into the cooling passageways and I have to believe that it might of been part of the issue. The bores had no cross hatch at all on them. I have most of the parts good and clean now, I am going to true all the surfaces, and re-ring it. I hope that helps. I thought it was a little too easy to kick over, this might of been why.

Well after doing more reading, I decided to do a compression check to see if that was an issue, even though it was said to have ben recently rebuilt. After buying the tester, I did the check, and only got 90psi. So I guess this thing needs a new top end. great.

Well, after sitting for a while cold. It still doesn't wana start. I really hope pilot jets will help this, cause its down right frustrating to kick and kick with no fire.

After doing extensive reading, I found one flaw. When I reassembled my carbs, I did notice the brass tube in the one bowl, and read that it goes on the left (choke) carb. Well last night I did more and read about a jet in that bowl. I didn't notice it at assembly, but thought I would pull it and check last night. I had also read that there are two bowls, 1-1 and 1-2, with the 1-1 having that jet and going on the choke carb. I pulled the bowl, saw 1-1, cleaned it, but didn't get the carb cleaner to go threw the area the jet should of been. Flash foward to today, I looked at a spare set of carbs I have, and bigger than s__t there is a jet in one. I swap out bowls after cleaning the proper one, and install it. I think the choke is working better now. I will let it cool off to see for sure. What I learned. Look in the actual bowl, and the cast in passage on the wall of the bowl is a air bleed style jet. You can unscrew it and clean it. This goes on the choke or left carb. 1-1 and 1-2 markings and brass tubes don't mean anything, and they can have both, and still not be the bowl that has the jet and goes on the left. I'm learning alot from this board, its got me 90 percent there. I just ordered a nice handfull of jets from F.A.S.T. and included in that is some pilots, so I will see how well a 27.5 helps (i'm thinking the ethanol blended fuel up here is leaning it out a bit. I will come back with some feedback.

The major issue is getting it to start. I rebuilt both carbs and replaced the choke. The choke works (I think at least, when its warm, if I pull it the idle raises up a considerable ammount). It does also bog a bit when rolling into the throttle, then you can feel the needle start to work and 1/4-3/4 feel great. I am up here in NYS, where the fuel does have ethanol in it. That could cause it to run lean, needing more pilot jet. I have even gone so far as to replace the reeds with new stockers today, just to make sure that leaking reads wasn't the issue. The cold start issue is my real concern. It absolutly will not start without out wetting the air cleaner with some fuel. Once running it will idle fine, but again, if I add choke the idle increase, which leads me to think that it isn't getting enough fuel at idle.

I just did an entire stock system for my machine. Instead of an oven, i used a torpedo heater, which works great. I am a welder and the torpedo heater is used alot for preheating large parts. I built a real quick sheetmetal 3 sided enclosure around the parts and dangled the parts in front of the heater in the enclosure. It worked great. This paint when cured, is like a rock. You can cure it on the machine, but not all of the exhaust system will get hot enough to cure the paint, and until its cured, it is not resistant to solvents. In short, amazing stuff. I have seen many products as an aircraft mechanic and drag car fabricator. This is in my top ten list of cheap but cool stuff.

Ok here it goes. The machine was bought used. It had pipes and stuff on it, but I wanted stock. I reinstalled the stock pipes, and rebuilt the carbs with a moose kit. The machine has no tors. I got it running, but it is lean at idle. I raised the needle to its highest position, and that helped, but I also had to crank in the idle air bleeds to just 1/2 turn out. When its idling, even after it is warmed up, if i pull the choke it increase its idle RPM signficantly. So I assume its still lean on the bottom. The kit came with a 200 main jet and the stock pilot and air jet. I am assuming a larger pilot, but don't know where to go with it. I thought stock settings were fat, so this is kinda confusing me. Thanks for the help in advanced.

The torch cleaner was a good idea, used that. I also got crazy and used easy-off. I had an old carb to try it on to make sure it wouldn't turn the aluminum black (happens sometimes, especially to anodized and clear anodized parts). After 2 treatments that included a 20 minute soak, then a hot fresh water rinse and scrubbing, these look GREAT!!. I know some will dispute it, but it works. Just a little 411 on that stuff.

I recently bought a 03. The original carbs had stripped out idle screws (removed tors) so I purchased another set of stockers off a friend of mine. They are in good shape externally, but inside the carbs had bad gas sit in them and make crystalized gunk. I have the carbs totally stripped for a rebuild kit. I am concerned that passageways could be plugged with this junk. In days past I used the 1 gallon carb dip bucket. Now due to greenies, the stuff is 80 bucks a bucket. I am looking for alternatives to that stuff. I need HD cleaner. Thanks.