regalrocket

The silver is the stock color for that year front master cylinder. I swapped mine out for a black one from a different machine. I didn't like mine being black at first, and wanted a blue one. The black is really really growing on me though.

Who makes the best, and best prices case saver. I had a 200x back in the day, and the chain came off the sprocket and destroyed a case, figure it would be a good idea to have on. Thoughts?

That link has a sweet boost bottle in it. BRABB

I bought mine for 1,250. Its an 03, I ended up putting some work to get it where I wanted, but I admit it was a steal. My friend also got one for 1,300. Western NY area.

Honestly, it looks like a train wreck. Its the little stuff that will nickle and dime you. With that frame being painted, I'm sure someone has had their hand all over that thing. I think that you will frustrate youself more than needed. You can find bikes for 1,500 that are in good shape, and run. Then you can at least ride it right away. You will spend at least a few hundred getting that bike running, only to find out that other things need repair. Its a parts bike, no more. Thats my opinion.

I totally agree, the stock bumper looks the best. It doesn't function the best for woods riding or as a hand hold when its stuck in the mud unfortunatly.

Mine came with the pro V. I hated the mesh grill that came in the middle of it, so i cut it out. It looked like something from the transformers with it. Its not my favorite looking, but it is VERY functional.

I have been a welder for 20 years now. Even a diagonal cut is still a butt weld. Any time your attacthing two peices of tubing that under high stress, and are critical, you always sleeve them. Get a pice of tubing that will fit inside the cut swingarm and when you go to weld it, you leave a 1/8 gap and you weld into both half of the swingarm, and the sleeve. Once thats done, you then drill threw the swingarm where the sleve extends into, and put a few plug welds to hold the sleve as well. Or you can do what we do in aviation, and but weld the swingarm, then add "fish plates" that are just nicely cut pieces that overlap the weld, and are welded around the perimeter to secure the splice. NEVER!!!! grind welds. A weld maintains is strength by being a little thicker than the parent material. In addition, usually when people grind they overheat the weld. The weld is a "heat effected zone" that has absorbed more carbon than the parent material. This area is more bitttle than the rest of the swingarm, which is why you leave the weld as is. If you want a nice finish, get someone that knows how to properly use a TIG welded, the welds will be so nice that after paint or powdercoat you will hardly see them, and what you do see will be so sexy it will make the bugger and grind bunch jelous. Example of a Sleeved installation: Example of a fish plate installation:

Those are some great pictures. I have set up websites full of pictures, and its alot of work and time.

They were the factory gold anodized, that was then spray painted black by the previous owner. So i removed the paint, the anodizing, then polished. I am happy, looks way better than rattle canned black, or the factory gold.

Here is the finished product. I didn't go nuts with the wheels. I did what I would call a "trail polish". No sense going nuts just to beat it off of trees and rocks. But it looks much better than crappy rattle canned wheels, that it was when I bought it.

I could, but I think the wire wheel does less damage, so that the polishing goes easier.

Ok, I will reply to myself for those that might want the information. HOW TO REMOVE GOLD ANODIZING AND POLISH STOCK WHEELS: Needed: degrease easy-off oven cleaner (Heavy Duty) paint stripper 41/2 angle grinder die grinder polishing disk for grinder polishing ball for die grinder extra heavy duty polishing rouge wire wheel (fine) for die grinder 120 grit or finer padle wheel for die grinder Fine scotch brite pads time 1. degrease wheels 2. if painted, strip paint by applying stipper, let sit for 10 mins, wash with warm water and repeat if needed 3. apply thick coat of easy-off and let sit for 30 min or more (you can let sit over night if you like) 4. remove with warm water and scrub brush 5. remove anodizing with die grinder and wire wheel (the gold color will remain after the cleaner, but the wire wheel will remove it very very fast) 6. Sand entire wheel surface with the die grinder and paddle wheel 7. smooth surface with the scotch brite pad 8. use angle grinder, buffing wheel and rouge to polish the wheel to a nice shine 9. use the die grinder and polishing ball for those hard to reach areas 10. drink a beer cause that was alot of work, but man, do they look good Pictures fo follow.

I have stripped my stock wheels of the gold anodizing, and have bare aluminum that needs some mild abrasive work before polishing. What is a good product that uses a die grinder that can lightly sand with 120 grit or finer that I can use to get these wheels in better shape? Thanks.

Make sure you didn't unplug the key switch. If that is unplugged it will not start.

Personally i am a HUGE fan of POR-15 products. Done properly, it give an amazing finish that is just as tough as powdercoating, but it can be touched up.

I rebuilt a top end, replaced a stator and chased my tail for 3 weeks. If I would have cleaned the carbs right the first time, i would have saved alot of frustration. I am glad it worked for ya. The hole in the slide is one that you see when you look inside the slide. Its under the keeper you unscrew to change the needle height. If you put that keeper that holds the needle, and the throttle cable 180 degrees of rotation off, it blocks that hole, and causes some issues I believe, cause it feeds slight vacuum a hole in the carb that is uncovered when the slide is at the bottom. If you look at a carb when its apart and someone shows you it, its very apparent.

I am new to the banshee world, but I have learned many hard lessons. First off, if you have a fuel situation, pull the carbs, clean them and BLOW all the pasages out (60psi from a compressor). These passages are so tiny, a little tiny piece of dirt can just ruin your month chasing problems. You need good air flow through: Main jet Pilot Jet Left carb bowl fuel jet and passages Choke passageways(both carbs) Brass tube in left carb feeding choke With all of that blown out, make sure your fuel height is set properly. When you reassemble your carbs, make sure that the hole in the slide is indeed open to the slot in the cable keeper (don't block it off). If all of that is clean, it should fire. I chased problems for a month, nothing i did fixed it. Finally i went threw and blew the carbs out again. INSTANTLY it fired up and ran great. It hase never ran this good. Live and learn. A side note, the brass tube extending from the carburator is only required on the choke side carb. if its missing, you probably won't get any fuel to the choke circuit.

Ok, I've heard it over and over. After a day of sitting, it wouldn't fire with the choke off. Turned it on and it cranked right up. I am officially a believer. If everything is proper, these will just fire up, even in the NY cold Of course everything that is needed to be correct is a pretty long list. :biggrin:

There is no spacer, it is taper fit to the shaft. If it hits the stator, I would look real hard to see if that stator is indeed on its register and screwed down properly. There is really no way for the flywheel assembly to go on too far.

Only the government could screw up something such as ATV's in the USA. That thing makes me so jealous of the euro guys.

I am telling ya, some how that choke was causing it to run lean. When you pulled the choke, it would idle up like it had an air leak. If I adjusted the idle air screws in (rich) it would bog down and die. I pulled the carbs apart, and blew the crap out of every passage. Now it seems that I have it fixed, finally. I also think I had the vent hole on the choke carb slide blocked by the cable mount. Not sure how that interfaces with the choke, but there is a passage for the choke that does enter the top of the slide threw the notch in it at the top. That probably didn't help.

Ok, this thing still won't start without a prime. The thing is 100 percent bone stock with the exception of the tors being removed. I have rebuilt the carbs, top end, replaced the stator with a good used unit. This thing still will not start without primimg. The primer plunger is new. When I pull the choke, the bike runs lean. I know cause I had the idle set lean with the airscrews, and when I pulled the choke, it didn't get better, it got much worse. I have the float bowls on the correct carbs, and everything seems good. I am so frustrated, I am about to send these out to someone that is a professional and can guarantee that they will be perfect. Cause this is really getting too frustrating for me.

I feel like a total dumby for not pulling this earlier. I did all that work, and I think I found the issue. Can you believe that this machine when it got running, would idle nd pick the front end up? go figure. The cover is ok, but I think it got in from the wiring hole. Once I get the new one, I am going to coat the interior with a thin corrosion inhibiter, and then seal it up with some good gasket sealant.

I don't know how this thing ran as good as it did when it did. But I think this stator and flywheel are junk.