AKheathen

well, so i made it 1 whole lap at the mx track. had my shock setup nice, and stopped to warm my arms up from the pumpin, and the fucking roller fell apart.....again. fucked the ride, and i knew i should have replaced the peice of shit over the last couple days....well, off to fix up a bunch of shit.....and, i need a new chain....fuck!!!

first off- what the hell you doin payin $90 for $60 reeds? but really, those cages should have been installed where they belong- the trash. even with the stiffest solid pedal, it would still flex in the middle and loose power at the minimum.

well, buddy, you have officially been initiated, lol there really is more helpfull info here than anywhere else, but we are also pretty laid back and fun most of the time. search around, and hit the chat/shout.

anyone notice the full 2009 page in the shout? big supprise- i'm "on"

it's junk- there's no way the shee can handle tripple boost. double is pushin it, hard!

start simple- maaintenance. new plugs- what do the old ones look like? air filter(s) clean carbs/fuel.

funny you should say that- actually, if your topend goes, but it still runs. ususally will not start for shit and have no bottom end, but still pull decent on top. i forgot to mention- you want the purple powerbands, untill you get used to it, then moove up to the red ones....th3 rd ones are freakin gnarly fast dude, but you can barely controll them.

mabey you need some clutch overrides for the tranny problems- 3 each, and ported banshee domes. some vf3 reeds in the raptor. spring for some syncro kevlar main bearings for both and all-season air in the tires. you'll be doin 150 in no time

idk- $70 just to see if you like it? not sure they would really hold up to extreeme abuse....

what's wrong with the 15-second non-music clips? you can accumulate them, then make one big one.......besides, banshee singin is music to my ears.....

aight, thanx. only had the 660 for a couple days, 2 years ago, lol. couldn't remember

lol, your man-shee 21's would do you fine at sea level, and 135, is actually pretty good for stock, provided you have the right tip in the tester. it should be the same length as the spark plug and have a shrade tip in the end. now that i know you are 3k elevation, go with 20's

actually, if you want a port map, you can buy just that. i don't remember who sells it, but there is a stencil kit. now, as for the transfers, you really want a 90degree tool to do the roofs, which are worth cleaning up at the minimum. i would suggest you start off conservative, which you should have no prob. hitting 60-65hp, and readding up on the 2 most important books. a.g.bell first, then jennings. they are both pinned at the top of repairs/mods in the thread "usefull links" you can always go more aggressive in steps. ...ok, where to start... with the 916's and wanting to keep it at your trail ridding, you are propbably not gonna benifit from a huge exhaust just yet. start at the top about 68% of the bore wide, and radius it over 2.5-3mm height from top to the corner raduises. bring the sides down mostly strait, but tapering in slightly for about 10mm, then radus to the bottom, even with where the top of the piston bottoms out. 188-190 is the range you want to be in, with a blow-down of 29.5-31, mabey 32, if you end up needing to do that while you cut for any reason, but i wouldn't really go more, imo. now, that brings us to the transfers, which are really going to give you what you are looking for, as far ass the broad, and mid power. keeping in the 131-126, depending on the exhaust, range, start with the roofs. study them verry well as for shape. you will notice how messy it is, and clean that up first, then see what you have to work with for material. slope them up and to the rear a little more (away from the exhaust) widen the transfers to get in the time/area, or just a bit to reshape them widen just at the rear sde on the tops, and front(exhaust) at the bottoms, and not a huge amount, and more so on the rear transfers, than the front. you are going to need a long bit to open them up a bit, but not a huge amount, agin, just enough to keep up with the new openings, or you will loose velocity. i wouldn't jump into the wormholes, just yet, but that's my opinion. after all, you can always rip the topend back off and cut more into it in stages, for meere cost of the gaskets, no bore/hone/rings needed. now the 5th transfer at the rear of the cyl. keep it steep, and just widen it a bit, and you should be real good there. slo pretty much covered the intake, basically matching to the windows on the pistons, and shaping out the bridge, and opening. you want to slope the top of the intake and get rid of that step down, and keep everything except the exhaust not-polished. slightly rough surfaces keep a thin turbulant layer of air which "lubricates" the flow. make sure to chamfer all the ports nicely, so the rings don't snag, and have fun. and the usuall b.s. measure 2x, cut 1x, anylize what your dooing, plan your work-work your plan, etc....... take this advice at your own liability, i do not gaurantee it to be the best, or great, but i believe it to be efficient, and what you are looking for, plus plenty of room to change things, if you find you want a more aggressive, but less broad powerband, or more top-end oriented, etc. it's ust based on what i have learned from the banshee sites, and other literature. good luck- heath-

first thing i would do is find exactly what was binding on them. it could have been the forks not sliding on the shafta and making it catch 2 gears or something, or in the durum, or locked up bearing......the output bearing, or clutch basket bushing, mabey even the rear axle? some tranny mods may be nice, like having every other dog cut on the gears, having the drum cut for a bearing, shift shaft, billet impellar, anything with the clutch, especially a pancake bearing. porting would be really nice to get now, and you don't have to bore/hone/ring, if it's all still good. you can have the cyls just ported. other than that, there is tons you can do outside of the internals, and still more inside, depending on your needs and budget.....what kind of ridding and conditions? how much are you willing to dish out? some pics of the pipes would be really helpfull to id them......they will be mid-top pipes, or woods pipes from the early 90's if they don't say gold series, or any class, like fattie, gnarly, etc. is there a signiature on them?

good deal right there...

do they run the same mains as the banshee, or the other style mains?

give them a good cleaning, 1 AT A TIME, and make sure they are adjusted right. if they still leak, then get both float neeld/seats, and bowl gaskets.

normally, i would say between the reeds and carbs, because they have been known to cause a bit of breakup in the topend, and a little overrev loss. however, with vf3's, they must only be installed on the cylinder side of the reeds when you need them. installed the other way will make the cage come loose aand damage the cage...not sure if they would be useable after that. they will give you like .2-.4hp in the mid only on a ported bike. best deal with vf-3's is to get intakes that make the carb clear

i've not messed with alky or those carbs, but just an idea- are you sure the idle is not set too high, but with the mixture off at idle? i'd think if the bowls were running low, they would fill back up really quick once you get out of it, like within 1-2 seconds max. if it is happening, and the bowls don't fill that fast, change the needle seat over to a larger one. i know there is sdiffernt ones to choose from for mikuni carbs, for higher flow rates. also- simple one- make sure the fuel cap isn't restricting flow...

best thing i found was to just let it rub, untill you can get a torch on it and bend the pedal up , so you can adjust it down, but still be able to stomp on the brakes hard without over-extending your foot.......even with the nerf spacers, it still wouldn't clear the peg and the cover right and be high enough.......

well, yah, that's pretty much what you do with sno-go, for best results, actually. the big thing is that the rings themself do not actually apply shit for pressure on the cylinder walls, just enough spring to keep them there. the actuall force comes from combustion pressure building behind the ring in the groove on the piston, wnich is why it is important which way the inner chamfer goes when you install rings. the smaller engines like the banshee, and tripples, have a problem with the head nuts coming loose at first, and more sensitive to jetting, in perspective. just how i see it

could be the pipes loading up with fuel, then after burning, also could be from missfire. if you just bought the thing, it could be in a different atmosphere, needing differnt jetting. detonation and preignition, would be pretty much impossible to hear through all the normal banshee pinging that comes from the pipes, but might sound like dropping a bolt, or 1/4" socket extension on the concrete. kind of a almost "ping", mabey little knock....

i know i fit my lectron 30's and mikuni 28's in mine.....it was a really tight fit with both, and just about impossible when the rubber is cold. i'm not sure about long term, but they have been holding up since begining of winter...

hmm, are you spending too long heating them up? should only be 5 to 10min at the most to get it to operating temp. big thing is so keep from blowing the head gasket, or o-rings while they seat and loosen. the plug chops are to make sure you don't burn it up, while giing it a full load.

i'm not sure exactly how accurate they are, especially if you don't run a catch tank, but there is the temp gauge rad. caps, and you have to cut the little hole in the rad cover to see, but, it is an option......trailtech units aren't really that much, if you buy the right one....