AKheathen

that's not stock......check the black for continuity with the engine, and ohm each yellow to black

the domes should have the size printed right on the side of them. your elevation will change that, too. i think you need 24cc to run 93, ideally.

xylene(goof-off) or buleing remover will work well, wd-40 is real mild solvency.

yah, high post count and maybe 6mo. is too much, too......there's allot of people that read, and unsung heroes that use the search feature, then those using the shout/chat often. I'm 100% behind registering some vital info to the site only, and displaying location. it might be complicated, but an average of the 2 would be ideal...say after 4 months you only have 16 posts, that would be about 1/3 post count, and 2/3 time.....maybe not.........I'm sure that we could come up with something both convenient enough for honest people, and difficult enough for newbie scammers......6months is a long time, really, and a shitload of traffic would just cease if you had to be premium. vouching is one way, too. i mean, paypal members a ve a "paypal verified" status....

lol, no i just pund the keyboard and my alter ego might get a few words in edgewise.......why? what does it say? lies? you ever see what they make the octane boosters out of? the best you are going to get out of a can of octane booster is if they made it out of almost pure 118oct. base or similar. the main focus they are basing the advertised octane from is simple chemicals like toluene, xylene, i think napthane, etc...basically dry aromatics that resist combustion a little. what you really want is a better base fuel that will actually produce more energy from burning, but take a bit more ignition to do so. that's not gonna come from a booster. if you understand what i mean, there really is a difference. oh, and i can see that the alchohol comment looks like i'm saying you should be running heat to keep your gas good, but what i mean, is it wirks when you do get some water, or deteriorating gas in there and it starts to run like crap.

where the fuck did you learn math? the means are +1.5 and +2.5".... here, I'll help ya out with the "showing your work" this is why they made you show....... [4+(-1)]/2=1.5 4+(-1)=4-1=3 3/2=1.5...... same thing with 6..... [+6+(-1)]/2=2.5 so, the average ground stands to reason that it would be a +2 swinger.... (1.5+2.5)/2=4/2=2/1=2, lol

only thing that matters on the coil wires is that they don't chafe

lol, you guys aren't gonna cconvince me that they boost anything but your ego. the biggest effect would be the half bottle of strait toluene, and that's still mabey 10pts. optomistically. 99% of them simply contain some alchohol, little toluene, little oil, and some fillers. the alchohol is the same stuff they put in heat. heat is just what everyone should be using to cure bad gas, which really works to keep your car running down the road without major water issues, etc. just measure the damn stroke on that thing. stick a peice of solid wire, or stick, or something through the sparkplug hole and measure how far it travles when you turn the engine over. that tells you if it's stock, or 4mill. now, there is common confusion between 4mill stroker, and big bore "4mill" i actually ended up with a set of big bore domes for this reason, so you will need to pull the head anyways to check the domes. i'm sure you can even get cheap used big bore domes, or cheap stroker domes. usually like $30-$40/pr. as far as boosting octane, you aren't getting protection from a booster. ideally, you are trying to get the most energy out of the fuel you need to run, not just trying to keep it from blowing, anyways. who knows, you may find out that that engine is setup for 95 oct, which means you only need to mix a little higher octane fuel with premium. i still find it hard to believe you went and spent more than you should on one set of pt's, then turned around and spent like 500 on some rockets, and then bought this new bike, but something this low in cost will make you take a shit

i don't think the reed pedals will smack the intake. that's allot more distance than they ever open, plus, the tips move fast enough that it would instantly crack them on the cast surface, so you would know right away. as it is, stock, the pulse coming back from the piston intake and aux port have an angle that helps push the pedal closed faster, rather than just escape through the reed. when you space it back, the pulses angle more directly through the opening. intakes that space the carbs up usually aren't enough for 1/2 of the carbs, so they still need spacers. and, remember that it is a reciprocating system, and that fuel can fall out of the air without enough turbulance......

bwahahahahahahahahahahaha, thanx...i needed a laugh. so, it seems that all this time you have been here, you spent it all reading sloriders posts. you have a fanclub tinfoil hat, too?

lol, the weird cantaleiver setup?

ok, you are all right, and all wrong. swinger length depends on 1-power, 2- rider weight, 3-rider style, 4-rider opinion, 5- conditions, 6- tire tread, and7- wheel/axle mass. so you throw an 80 punder on the +6 and most places he is not going foar, or will be able to use more than 25 of that 60+hp, now, you throw a 250 pouner on a -1, and the bike will likely ride him backwards on several occasions. inbetween there, where and how you ride on the bike, how the tires hook and effect the bike will give you the feel of how much length you need. i don't like the stocker, because i cracked mine in half just riddin trails. if you have a -1 to get traction, yo'll likely get used to shifting weight moreover the front tires and ride that way, not really getting used to throw your ass back over the wheels, or let the the bike throw you back to plant the tires deeper, since doing so will just throw the front up instantly. it's plain fact that you get more stability from wider wheel base, longer wheelbase, lower center of gravity, and more centered mass concentration. if you don't believe me, go read some chassis engeneering literature. it's also just simple geometry that the shorter swinger will apply more weight to the tires with the steeper angle forcing down as well as foreward, which is also seen as the greater mass pushing down harder as it pushes back. longer arms aren't going to get you close to honda geometry, since it's the frame mounting that effects it more greatlyu, and sets the foundation for the front geometry. .........eh, this is tiring today.......... good day sirs

i did that before. the plugs kept getting wet, so i blew the water off, held the throttle open, and kicked it over a few tomes, then pulled the choke and sterted it up. it ran kinda like crap, but cleared out no problem in a few minuets. use dielectric grease on any electrical connection, including sparkplug caps. i also ditched the stock carbs and drive through rivers up to the airbox. without a lid, the worst thing i get is a soaked ouoterware making it real rich.

yah, you will need to make up for the extra 2.5mm upward stroke, which is done with the spacer or domes (domes are the best way) the different pistons are for longer rod length. just to clarify- you baught a 5mill stroker crank with 115mm rods, right? not just stock stroke crank with 115mm rods. or you could've got a stroker crank with 110 rods, which could use regular pistons, but you would still need to clearance the stroke. you have several differnt options to choose from to set it up. with that much bore, you are just about at the limits of the stock sleeve, as stated. you can punch it to the .100" over and run it 'till the next rebuild. wsm also makes really nice ported longrod pistons, too.

i wanna say the o-rings are interchangeable, as i've heard, but i have also heard you must have the higher heat range ones in there. i don't have a bb dome layin around anymore, so i can't check. i would check the site sponsors, like jeff, alfie, or wildcard, which will most likely be able to get them to you lickity split. worst case scenario, you can probably match them up at a bigger auto parts store or cat shop. you want the brown or orange ones(they are color coded for heat range and chemical/solevent resistance, etc) black is the bottom of the barrel rubber.

unless your shop is 36 degrees, it should be pretty set by now

there is still many differnt variables, starting with one being jetted closer to what it needs, not just what the kit says, down to tire hook, rider weight nd skill, etc. you have to bolt the same pipes on the same bike, jetted right, with the same rider pitted against a controll, like another bike that keeps up pretty close, or time trials. then you can really compare the 2 pipes, and do the same for just changing the reeds. the point of the reeds is really to shape the power "feel" and response, more than just add power. that alone will make you ride a little differnt, too. the stock reeds do promote a peaky lightswitch power, and the boysen dual stage reeds will smooth that out and add a little power across the board, but there is several different ones to choose from. i don't think the cage comes loaded with the nice reeds unless you pay extra for it. as for packing material, i have used the pink insulation which you can buy in a "project pack" that is like 6'x 18", i believe, for sticking between studs, mabey longer. it did make it pretty damn quiet in comparison, but worked great. last time i was at the local mc shop, i found fly packing for $3.95/roll, which is enough to do a pair of toomy or procircuit silencers, but idk if it'll fill the fmf silencers completely. if you really want the loud sound back, you can always use copper pipe in the core, wich will work like a tuned stinger, but it's up to you to think about sound regulations and neibors, etc. and i wouldn't ride it without a helmet, since it will be loud enough to damage your hearing.

actually, he's right around the 3xx range. pwk/ kehin jet size numbers are different. and, you can't compare fatties and t5's on 2 differntly built bikes with 100variables and blame it on the reeds. ther's a reason t5's are a timeless favorite. oh, and the reeds are more midrance oriented. they should have minimal, to no effect on jetting. p.s. put the cans back together and pack them good. you will gain some power back.

there is actually a good way to sync the idle, if you don't have, and can't get the tool. start by syncing the slides. i think i used a 3/16" screwdriver to do it on an initial setup. then the cables, and wherever you think the airscrews will start best at. get it warmmed up to operating temp and tune the airscrews evenly to the highest idle, letting it catch up for a bit, then back in 1/8 turn. this is generally a good setting. now bip it again to keep it running hot. next, go back to the silencers and feel the output with your hand. if one side is not firing all the time, fine tune the airscrew in small increments untill it does. if one side fires stronger, then fine tune the idle screws to make them match and you will likely need to do the airscrew again. that will ballance cylinder putput/power at idle. resync the cables again to match the new settings. i'm sure you could probably dick with like 1/4 throttle with the exhaust, but i don't really bother, and the tool is still a better way to get the full sync.

hey, at least 1 of them can tighten a chain

you can try, lol....too late for paypal, but you can still put a complaint on their records

make sure those vforce are a 1-peice flange/cage, not insetert. otherwise the spacer doesn't have enough meat to hold the cage in good.

lol, chris, it's probably high elevation, or wrong tester/method....anyways- i've seen it 100x. if they are not backing out, then just get new plugs and install them as per directions. they don't use much pressure at all. the gasket rings are just overcompressed is all.

yah, if you look around, you will see losta happy people, and plenty pics. i know you'll find a few in product reviews.

i run down paved roads several miles at a time.............is it just if you stop at the 1 mile mark that it blows?