AKheathen

ttt bump anybody?

two things- i can't help you if you don't answere the questions. 2nd- in your signiature, it's "they're" not "their"

looks like a normal casting mark to me. what you do is- spray it with wd-40 or pb and let it sit a min. then, spray a little bit of brake cleaner on a rag and wipe it real quick. not scrub, but just wipe the oil off, and blow on it. if it's a crack, the oil will soak in, then seap back out and you can see it. you can sometimes do the same with just brake cleaner as it flashes off, the crack will be the last to dry. don't froget to re-oil the crank when you put it in.

check your swinger pivot bearings, too.....that'll snap a chain easy, from just turning right with enough weight.

well, if you use the spacer plate, then it will be allot of topend, and real short blowdown. best thing to do is get some cut domes, and bring the exhaust back up to an appropriate time for decent blowdown, and that will set your miinimum rpm range on the porting. allot of times, you are stuck with near drag when you stroke an already ported motor, since there is too much cut from the transfers. either way, you will need to lower the port floors for better flow, since the piston will be dropping either 2, or 4mill further, creating a ridge

sweet find. you shoudl put that hting on display, lol. keep up with good maintenance, and run a good oil, not that 2r crap, once you get building on it with pipes, and such, you will want the better protection. now, most will tell you their favorate pipe, but, if you are not going to build that much, then it will depend on how you want it to feel/ride in regaurds to power. you can get topend easy with several pipes, which will pull the hardest, but you probably want more even power startin at lower rpms. speaking on banshee terms, low is about 6k, mid is about 7500, and top is 8-8500. my fav. is pro-circuit, but i wouldn't suggest it, unless you are eventually going to bolt on $1k+. small build, like reeds, filtersetup, timing, will benifit with either t-6, or sst and ptr-mids. the toomey tr-6's will be the most efficient and come on gradually, starting lower then the 6k. they match a stock engine the best. timing is the next bang for your buck mod to do @30-60 bucks, tools and all. then reeds. the reeds not only add power and throttle response, but shape the feel of the engine, so choose wisely. you can't go wrong throwing some boysen power reeds in there, though.

these would be a really nice woods/mx pipe for the kinda guy serious about setting everything up and fine-tuning, so they are a viable option..... well, it all depends on the level of the build, lol. yah, you can get some decent bottom end out of any pipe on a big enough motor, since the pipe is just boosting the engine, which is already doing most of the work. i would bolt a set of t-6's to a stock bike, over pc's anyday and hit the woods, but once you start building bigger, not only will the t-6 hinder, since peak efficiency is at lower flow rates, but the pro-circuits will really blow them away right from the bottom, since peak efficiency of the pc's is 4mill+. even just porting stock stroke will get you into a favorable range for the pc's you realize that's all from 15 years ago? a shitload has changed, and most of those pipes are pretty much out of circulation, and several new ones are the mainstream now, save for the t-5's which are still really big.

well, if you can't swing the 4mill, but want to in the future, then best thing is to check the play in the bearings, (rods and centers) and have yours trued/welded, then throw some new outters on there, which are dirt cheap when you buy from a manufacturer, not banshee vendor. vxb should be like $7 each. that thing should last untill you are ready for 4mill, and then some. they generally don't give you any warning before letting go, they just get sloppy, or separate, which you can get lucky and catch, but flaking can be felt by hand, wear play can be measured, and oil starvation can happen anytime, no matter the hours, or crank. trued/welded stock cranks are verry durable, and the stock center seal is the best i've seen, so far.

so, yah, 2 things- i'm wondering if there is someone who can work with me to cast, or cnc some new design intakes. 2nd- i need some measurements fom guys running billet intakes already. i plan on using just genaric bolt-on carb boots, so i need the bolt spacing, and flange measurements. more importantly- i need the distance from the reed to the boot flange, and if you needed to use reed spacers to clear the carbs, that thickness and which carbs, as well. i don't want to design an intake that needs spacers to clear the carbs. thanx a bunch.

yah, long rod is good for longer dwell and more direcet angle, which is favorable tward mid-low torque, but shorter rod is better for shorter dwell, better allance and less weight, which translates into faster and higher reving, and topend power.

no. stroke is how much the rod moves. that's the difference between stock and stroker. rod length sets how far away the piston pin sits, which uses different pistons.

that's all i buy. that's what they carry behind the counter at sno-go shops, lol. just run them. ngk is a great brand.

um, how are you tightening the plugs, slacker? if you over tighten them, they can streatch the threads in the head, and they will flatten the gasket, so there is no spring pressure to keep them seated. you should really read the plugs, too. plug locks should never be used. they do not cure any problem, just mask a warning sign

yah, clean it up, but keep it steep, and widen it a little. that's what i would do.

ambient temps, and riding elevation, which you can find @ google earth. the engine should be about the same temp no matter where/when you ride, and i wouldn't think you are ridding on staten island, but you could just find our normal riding spot on there.

well, 2 things- heat, and KR OIL......kr oil is the best penitrant i've ever used, but sometimes, you gotta just get the heat out. wd-40 is ok to creep, but it's intended to just displace moisture, and doesn't work as great as everyone thinks it would. of you can't find kr, then some pb blaster might do.

you have all the pressure off it? once it's centered pretty good, you should be able to smack it through with a bfh on the brass

lol, they may look like toomey silencers from a ways away, but they're a bit bigger. there is the 2 different types to run. 304's are the std. ones and 296, i think, are the forrestry approved ones, in case you need to pass sparky/db rules.

it's not even a question here. pro-circuit's for the muthafuckin win! they will net you afew more ponies over all other low-mid pipes in the end, and will definately shine on the 4mill. especially, since you are wanting mx, where they come on low, and pull hard all the way with some top rev-out. you will notice on a stock motor, there is a little lacking in the bottom, but when you start adding some compression, timing, porting, etc, they will suck the turd out of your ass more and more.

if you watch the mull banner, the banshee kit floats by every 8 seconds....

i hope the o.p. didn't bite it too bad

i've been bs'n with matt about shocks for pretty much the past year. really been around the block big time, and probably more experienced/knowledgable than most rebuilders out there. glad to see he started up doin shocks for us will be gettin my fox's as soon as i'm done buildin the x-arms.

haha, i always heard not to run one under 80-100hp from allot of different people....all running that much power or going off what other said. "it's a waste. hd springs are all you need" well that's total bullshit! i'm only around 60hp, and absolutely love it. sure, i can popey it with all hd, etc....anywhere in between, but it hooks soo much better, and i can controll my slip, both initial takeoff, and mid-holeshots, with both spring settings, and full lockup via the weighting. i think i'm gonna go back down to 2hd springs, from 3, and weight higher for sooner lockup. it does great in the woods, and i can slip the clutch on a hillclimb and lay into it without popin up so bad. yah, you probably wouldn't bennifit with a real mild build, but some porting, pipes, reeeds, timing, compression, carbs...well you get the pic, and you can definately put one to good use. there is some diy kits for conventional lockups, and the slingshot is definately a good option. you can fine tune a slingshot by adding/removing weights, but i don't know if you can overpower it as easy as a conventional when you're reved out, but i don't see the need to clutch then anyways, lol.

yah, it's just an airscrew for idle mixture. i hear they make my rack kit for the rz, but it must be a custom cable on there, since it wasn't sticking out of the end as far as twist throttle cables usually do. it has 2 levers on a shaft that lift the slides, instead of cables, and the cable is in the center on a roller. both carbs have the idle screw holes on both sides, but only 1 uses a screw, and sets both sides, then adjust the shaft for sync. what was done, though, is one bore is tapped with a nipple to connect a hose to the other slide through the idle screw hole, which balances them at idle. there was another nipple in another screw hole, which i'm not sure what it is there for, but it was real conveinient for the airscrew to hook up. i wonder if cp-9 friction coating might work good on the slides. only problem i saw with them for wear is the idle screw, and they really flop around with the body gasket in there. i ditched the gaskets and just ran 3C sealant on there, and they fit awesome after that. i noticed on mine, and heard from someone running alky, too, that idle is usually a tad rich

detonation usually causes that. sometimes, it will hapen if you overtighten the plugs, but it takes more than a couple minuets to back out......on a stock motor, 150psi is perfectly fine on 90+ with an accurate reading. first thing you should do is a squish test. make sure your compression tester has a shrade valve in the tip, and that the tip is as long as the sparkplug threads, and you are kicking it over holding wot, untill the needle stops moving. then, pull the head and check the dome size. you will need to know the bore size and if any porting is done. the compression ratio is more a deciding factor than cranking compression. you can deto with as little as 140psi, or be fine closer to 180. oh, and elevation and timing will effect it, too.