AKheathen

all i have are coffee cans and captain morgan bottles around. think thaat will work better than polishing them? can't quite get a bhq sticker on there good

x2. if you connected them together and it made absolutely no difference, then they were already shorting together in the first place. go to the back of the bike, and snip the green/yellow wire. it should start frvving pretty normal. however, i suggest pulling the carbs and cleaning/rejetting them. make sure the float bowl with the little brass bead on the outside goes bacl on the left (choke) carb, and the little hose goes back on. putting aftermarket pipes on without jetting will melt your motor down.

that's what i started buying.....went through a few o-ring, and non o-ring chains before i started buying the $33 rk firts one got all chewed up running on a failed amp link roller. it mushroomed all the links, and the chain started to kink, but it still held for a few hours of hard riding. definately got my money out of that one.

no, try to keep the wattage around 70 for headlights, or they will be dim. if you are trying to hook up those 2 mr-16 bulbs (2"round ones) then go get one 20 watter from hardware store. works great with thr right combination of spot/flood for your needs. the reviel ones look better.

pull the flywheel, and make sure the key is parallel with the centerline of the crank, not the taper and try again. the little metal circle (or lines for aftermarket) should be fully over the flywheel node. doesn't need to be centered, but shouldn't be hanging off either

oh, and the head nuts will come loose. however, you just retorque them after a few heat cycles and they won't. and, double nutting, or loctite will only keep them from rattling off, but the gasket can still leak if not retorqued.

x2 on the dogs. if you had to replace the fork(s), then 90% sure the dogs are going to be chewed/rounded, which will bend the fork again. i had to fix that exact problem/symptom last fall. i have also seen a peak in the drum channel worn down, too, which probably started the dogs/fork damage in the first place. just check everything over real good for slop, misalignment, and wear.

make sure the flywheel didn't come loose, and the stator groundS are still in tact. also, ohm out the stator. is it even capable of putting out more than 20 something volts? the banshee cdi needs minimum around 20 to kick over, then gets close to 200v while running.

wow, i just noticed, you are all the way up at a 10. you need to go back to an 8 and tune it to run good with those first thing.

um, that post was all over the place confusing........i think you just racked up about 20,000 airline miles. anyway, i think you are trying to say that avgas is junk. well, no. it is actually really nice to run when you are set up to need the octane. it burns real well at sea level, but even better at higher elevations. ideal for multi-elevation rides, like in the mountains. i'm speaking about 100ll. well, blah, blah blah..bed time

yah, generally, you need to go up on jetting, but if you are already 1 size rich, it would probably be spot. the bottle should say something about higher s.g. compatibility if there is a prob.

if you are jetted right for pump, you might end up a little lean. and make sure your premix oil can support the race gas without separation

the point of the shock is to take the stress and manipulate it.....the stress must go somewhere, you know? not sure how it takes it off the shock, though

yah, you had it right- 1-n-2-3-4-5-6......1-2 is a full click, and neutral gets pretty hard to find. things that make it worse- loose shifter lever splines. wirn shift shaft bearings. buildup/varnished internals. mis-adjusted clutch, or worn hub/basket. you can do some shift mods, like shift star mod, shift shaft mod, shift drum bearing mod, etc.

and, i switched from running either quakerstate, or chevron in everything to penzoil synthetic and noticed less gum, smoother power, and less blow-by...so does that mean penzoil makes the best oil? no.....i just like buying it everywhere i want. i like more detergents, pre-filtered, friction modifiers, oh and syn. base.......i shit you not, i can throw some dye in it and you wouldn't tell the difference with amsoil, or any other "god" oil in the same class. the 3mph, etc from switching is probably just a byproduct of switching to what property the engine needed more, like less drag on the pistons, or less hydraulic resistance in the oil system, like bearings/pump, etc. or the higher viscosity helped with piston seal. who knows what it could've been. not all 1o-40, 0-20, 30w, or whatever class oil are actually the same in real performance, so even in the same class, if you switch from a 15-40 delo400, it might be almost the same as a quakerstate 10-40 high mileage oil in several properties. eh, I'm done ranting, but you really need independent test results comparing actual viscosities, burn-off, crush, etc....

hate to say, but you need to tear it down, rip that crank out and either have it repaired or replaced

you don't kick it over to test. if you don't get an ohms reading between red and green, it's bad.

the problem is the fillers, etc, which make it run hot. if 1 bottle in a 18-25 gallon tank makes your engine just run hot and gain maybe 1 point. then imagine what will happen with that high of concentration. you are better off, just adding a little avegas, or race fuel. fraction of the cost, and you can even just put it in a little bottle to add later, lol.just put some oil in it.

yah, trannies usually do go a little cheaper, however, this one does look like it's a real nice, low hour setup with every part there and without defect. just as long as it's packed real good for shipping.

hey, that's a pretty good ider there. i'll have to remember that next time. i have some clove compound layin around.

definately first thing to pull the clutch cover and see. all the screws are #3 phillips, not 2. and you may need to give the butt of the screwdriver a smack to pop them loose without stripping. pull the pump cover first, there is 2. on the clutch cover to the front of the bike woth 3 screws, then the little pump cover underneath with 5 screws. all the coolant can drain there. you have to pull the brake lever off, and at least 1 peg bolt to roll the peg. then the kickstart lever and you can unscrew the cover and pull strait off. you will most likely see if there is a problem right away. the clutch basket gear is supposed to have no play, and check for excessive play/rocking on the little idler gear between the clutch and kicker. everything else should be pretty evident

x2, you are going to need tall enough gearing and high enough rev period to reach 100pmh, but you need the torque of a stroker to be able to ride it comfortably, and pipes that will hold the power up there. just what porting, what carbs, any head mods, like shaved/re chambered/cool-head? what dome size? reeds yet? tires/gearing? to actually pull 100, you have to factor wind resistance, and cutting the front fenders will help allot.

black/red to black on the harness side of the plug, and black/white to black red on the key switch side

well, you need to know what domes you are running first off. elevation, and porting. if it is detonating in the mid, i guarantee it is detonating in the top-end. now, if you have been running it hard like that, there's possibly damage to the piston already. on the other hand, if it's not detonating, and you are just assuming, it could be something simpler, like plug gap, jetting, weak spark, too much octane, etc. measure squish, find out what domes/cr, and you may need to pull the head and take a look-see at what you have going.

yah, the black/white wire is not in the main connector. it hooks up separately with a bullet connector. you can hook that to a killswitch with the other lead hooked to ground, or black