AKheathen

...no response yet...

this is pre-97, but you just need all the stator wires, the red/black is key switch (ground to run) and the black/white is kill (ground to kill) orange coil, black, and the rest is optional.

really? i don't know what this guy is doing. that is whay i mentioned that it depends on what he is going to do to the motor......

umm......hey guys.....this is exactly what pro-circuits are for, and why they were built in the first place. no question. go with pcp's

you have a pic of the power curve? just how much low-end do they have? just being optimistic, but how would they do for woods? pro-circuits?

holy shit, lol.........anyway, ground the red/black to make it run(keyswitch wire) and the black/white is your killswitch wire that you ground to kill.

well, i plan on going rz, unless i can get some cyls made first. the point of it is to have real nice low-end for woods with a strong mid-top. for those who think cheetah power isn't good enough in the bottom. and, i'm gonna run it off my dyna fs, and be able to program the pv timing where i want it.

depends on how far you are planning to build.... by far, pro circuits are king, and i love mine. however, on a stock bike, they aren't as efficient as t-6, but the t-6 will choke out a motor that is ported with reeds, carbs, pods, timing, compression, etc

hahahaha, these are 2-strokes....the pipes are actually like turbos. the shape stuffs the cylinders with a return pulse at and near certain rpm range. the silencers keep it tuned efficiently. without them, you loose power from lack of back-pressure. even removing the packing robs some power. that being said- if you want to run drag pipes, you are going to need drag porting, and build it around that. you will basically have shit for mid and bottom, which will make it hard/unpleasant to ride anywhere but the strip.

a stock trans should hold up well, but you could look into an extreeme duneable, and see if they got all the bugs worked out yet. i think they did. ask sleeper06.

i think the fullbores look nice, but still like a banshee....if you're gonna "race cut" anyways. the craptor plastcs don't even look like either machine because of the base. you can clean it up with a nice jds customs grille, too....

haha, ignition safety....never heard the perk brake limiter called that before....

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=135310

3 heat cycles ideally. get her hot just sitting there idling and playing with the throttle now and then. the point of the cap being off is that the cooling system would stay pressurized as it cools off and the head loosens. that time is when a leak is most likely to start. no cap-no pressure= no leak. retorque the head and give her hell. keeping a load on it is what cuts the rings best.

yes, that is normal. the gears shift to a spot where the dogs don't line up more often than they do line up, so the gears need to spin untill it finds a spot to slide in. just go to a local shop and pick out a good quality oil and stick with it, or run atf if you feel like changing it every 5 hours.

teamrealtree has a tranny cluster for sale at a badass price right now, actually, or you can get brand new at a dealership. your build level and riding will decide what you should do. there is overrides and billet gears, but you may not like, or need either.

that one burned/broken wire is actually the only one it uses. the other 2 are dead wires added in there for strength.

wtf?? did you see what they did to the timing curve on that??? that thing will kill topend and rev-out on all settings. but, you do get to fine tune the initial advance....before the powerband....hahaha.....dyna fs ftmfw!.....oh, and the dyna increases spark, and has decent curves in it already. just flop a switch, or 2 and run the one that feels best.

well, if it's more than one gear, i'd first suspect the axle-sprocket hub splines slipping. if it is, in fact in the trans, then likely a shift fork bent, but the skipping would have rouned off the cogs, meaning a few gears, and fork(s) would need replaced. if that's the case, check the drum for wear, especially on 2nd peak.

a big guy like jeff is gonna use a fine hone(better) heat cycles with the rad cap off, then retorque the head and run it hard, with the same oil and ratio you will be running.

nah, that's only when it's a hot engine. if it's cold, you can run it dry no problem, even pull the choke to keep it sucking fuel out. trust me- the oil isn't going to disappear any time soon, or it wouldn't work for shit, and you would need to mix 2:1. when it runs out of fuel, oil, or fog the cyls, like suggested and oil the chain. leaving a tiny bit of premix in the carbs is a good thing, too. if you wanna go all out, pick up some dry plugs. you stick them in the plug holes and they absorb moisture.

once it's been through a heat cycle, it's done. sorry. buy a new one.

me first!!!.....wait- you are a hot chick, right?...or at least butter-face?

lol, that's plug glazing. if you throw an igniter on them, they'll spark down allong the insulator, insteard of across the gap. what causes it is deposits, like separated oil, or unburned leftovers form the high octane fuel. when you pull hard, it heats them up quickly and glazes the deposits to a conductive coating. it can also happen from the wrong heat range. either you were too rich on the bottom to heat them up and keep them hot, or you just need less octane. rule of thumb is 165psi and +4 is safe for pump, but it really depends on cr/elevation. what setup, bore, porting, and dome size are/were you running? pipes, too.

i have it on good authority this kid is 12 years old this week..... mandatory ban!