AKheathen

your shift arm is jumping off the star pegs. i bet you can push the shifter in/out....the bearing is probably shot. pull the clutch coer and find out what's going on.

depends on the impact....i guarantee a thunder-gun would rip it to shreds. i say between 200-300 ft/lbs and smack it.

can you send me a shipping quote on the cases. definately interested as long as it's not gonna be $100, lol. also, better pics of the chain whack damage. (just wanna see that there is no cracking into the inside) anchorage, AK 99516-2724 btw, those are not stock reeds. they appear to be full epoxy dual stage reeds, just like boysen. they will mostly bump mid and low and smooth out the throttle response, but gain the entire range. definitely the best option for someone wanting to run stock size reeds on juice. paypal ready- --Heath H--

interested in pipe clamps, kicker, roundhouse brake bracket, and what is that matching one for? is that an extended swinger brake line? any pods to fit my lectrons?

not bad. you desperately need to slack that chain, though. and, you can get nice pivot tubes from stellar (site sponsor) around $20

just as the title says, i need something to get into the transfers........mabey a builder is upgrading and has the old one to sell, or just one layin around......probably 1-2 months before i really need it, but i have money now, lol.

ditch the degree key, especially if it's loose. you should be able to just push the stock key in flush with the ground, or center-line of the crank, not the taper. you can get it at the dealer cheap, and i think fast carries them

no, your pistons will decide if you need a bore, and you need a hone for new rings, but porting does not require re-bore, or hone.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2003-Banshee-Cylinders-PORTED-POLISHED-jugs-64-00-STOCK-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem43a15e1fa4QQitemZ290470109092QQptZMotorsQ5fATVQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories i don't think that gouge can be bored out of the cylinder. on top of that, the liner is cracked. description- "useable with cosmetic signs"........."needs bored"... just lettin you know.

oh, lol, this is for front bearings, and yes, you must set the preload on tapered bearings, and maintain it regularly. however t-rollers handle 10x the sideload, and quite a bit more radial load, so it's great for trails. i haven't decided on t-rollers in the rear yet, but probably works great with the grease zirc mod. i thing t-rollers create some more high-speed drag, though. i haven't had a stock bearing go out yet, but i think that means they might go soon, lol. on the plus side- you won't have to deal with stuck bearings half as bad as ball bearings, and you can pack them with boat trailer grease to keep river water and rust out. eventually, that will be the only grease i use on the whole bike.

lol, the head spacer doesn't do anything to port timings. do the domes for reliability mostly. the head spacer is prone to leaks. the porting will give you a lot more power

anything can be fixed, lol. billet 2nds are like 300, if you were thinking about that. some just throw a new stocker and fork in there every year or so without problems

yah, idk on the 660, but i was measuring up some 700x arms and they appear to match up to 450 arms.

sweet, thanx snoop. they are out of stock and overpriced, but at least now i know it crosses over to 1987-2006 Yamaha Banshee 2003-2006 Yamaha Blaster 2005-2009 Yamaha Raptor 350 1987-2004 Yamaha Warrior 2005-2009 Yamaha Warrior 350 2004-2009 Yamaha YFZ 450 2009-2010 Yamaha YFZ 450R 2010 Yamaha YFZ 450X and it takes ATVS001 2 Seal - 25.18 x 42.15 x 7.05 ATVS002 2 Seal - 21.35 x 35.18 x 7.02 H-BE-107 2 Bearing - 15 x 35 x 11 Tapered Roller H-BE-108 2 Bearing - 20 x 42 x 12 Tapered Roller so, i can get the ones off boss, but i think I'll just price them out at the bearing store, or even vxb.......

most likely you will find a bad fork, or engagement dogs. i believe you can just slap a stock 2nd in there for $30. however, there could be a problem with shaft splines, drum channel, or drum alignment. I've seen the 2nd hump worn down before, causing the fork and gear damage.

actually, they all came with the option of 190, 200, 240, and i don't remember on the 210-220 option. what came installed depended on location and whether the dealer knew/cared what it needed. default was 200.

um.....the slides should top out just fine with stock and non-tors carb tops. what about the choke tube and cleaning/reeds?

i'm lookin for the tapered bearing conversion, but i can only find 04-08 yfz450, & some raptor model kits.......

lol, change the oil and adjust it first......as it starts to wear, you loose freeplay until it no longer fully engages. get some freeplay back, and it might hold. normally, it's the top gears, or 3rd+ that you will start to notice it slipping, mostly at lower rpm's before you get in the pipe. start with cable slack first, you should be able to feel when the actuator hits. if you can't get that adjusted, then you have to pull the clutch cover and adjust the screw in the pressure plate.

so, you're saying that the right side plug was white and dry, right? you will be able to see fuel, or oil if it's just spark. look in the carb for problems. make sure the float needle is clean and working, make sure the choke tube is on, make sure both slides move together, and the one isn't inop. when you have the carb out and on the bench, unscrew the main jet, remove the washer and put the jet back in. push firmly with the butt of a screwdriver with the top of the carb on the counter, and the emultion tube (needle jet) should come right out through the bore. make sure that's not all plugged up. clean all little passages real good with wire, etc, and put it all back together tentatively. while it's out, check the reeds. as for the stator pickup, use a sparkplug box flap to set it on one of the nodes, then roll it over and check the other node. a little difference is ok, but just a little.

they need to be connected to non-existence. lol, they are just dead wires one ground, and the black/yellow went to the tors box

maybe diamond dize it. that stuff is amazing. you can see it on youtube. i did my pressure plate instead, with engine enamel. no flaking or chipping yet, and if it does, it isn't going to chew up the tranny/gears. if you want to do the lockup in pc, have them mask off the finger channels, mount surfaces, and screw holes

take both sets of cyls down to a shop and have them spec'd that will tell you what size pistons you are going to need for each cyls. if the shop is worth having them do it, they will want the pistons first, so they can get the right clearance, and they will re-chamfer the ports. if they do not do that, or even ask, go somewhere else, but at least you will know what size your bores are. as for the porting, it doesn't look like a hack job, but you are going to have to get the durrations to a builder to find out what kind of port job it is

oh yeah, ray is a sponsor here. that is what you need, just check it over real good when you get it. they are used parts after all. about fixing the old one- you may find a broken connection on the pickup wiring, but normally a low ohm reading on the windings means they are cooked real good and some are shorting where you can't see, and need a re-wrap. unless you are well experienced at such wiring/windings, i wouldn't try it. besides the fact- i am experienced in such field, and do re-wraps. and i can tell you that it's about $20 in materials, 30-40min tear-down, and 3hours min to wrap just ignition, then solder epoxy, and dry time. if you are not experienced, you can spend all day, and might end up making a mistake on the tiniest thing, like wrap style, dry connection, etc. on a side note- i do pay $15 if you send your core. when you put the flywheel back on, make sure the taper is clean and not galled up. i like to hit it with emery or scotch brite and clean good. make sure the key is parallel with center-line, not taper, and use blue loctite on the nut.

your coils are likely just fine. you test cap to cap on most years. the pickup, or pickup wires are bad, though, and stator sounds like it's goin bad, too.