AKheathen

the pipes are vht, aerosol ceramic coating, baked in stages. here is what you do- first, grab the rear grab bar and shove the back of the bike side to side. if your swing-arm bearings are worn, you can see it by doing this. that will snap chains. next, check your sprockets for excessive wear. waved out teeth make each tooth pry on individual links as it rolls around under load, especially the front sprocket. next, when you adjust the chain, ratchet-strap the carrier to the rear grab or frame, and suck it down until the the centerline of the front sprocket, swing-arm pivot, and axle all line up, and suck the chain just so there is no slack, but not real tight. if you are snapping chains, and run something strong enough, it could blow the trans bearing. also check the rear sprocket hub...

you need to clean that carb out. if it's overflowing, then it's also shooting more fuel in the venturi while it's running. likely just some stuff clogging the float needle, or something

the timings are measured based on full 360 degree rotation. so, the top of the piston lines up with the top of the port as it rotates and that is where you start counting degrees as it keeps rotating untill it lines up again on the upwards stroke and closes. the only measurement not measured in the full 360 is "blow-down" that is the degrees from when the exhaust opens, to when the transfers open. you can get more precise, like .5 degree increments, by subtracting the transfer time from the exhaust time and dividing by 2

you need more exact measurements. and it helps to do the full degrees from when it opens, to when it closes. for example- 188 degrees rotation open exhaust. 127 degrees open transfers. that would give you a blow-down of 30.5 degrees. or, are you saying that the transfers open at 75 degrees, and the piston lines up with the bottom of the transfer ports ate 60 degrees? the full open rotation in degrees is also more precise, in case you have the tdc off a bit, or a half-degree, like my example.... if that is true about your measurements, you still only have 180 degrees exhaust, and 15 degrees blow-down. that will give you a lower rpm motor, that has no real power-band. i do not think those measurements are accurate, though. stock, it should come up with like 178 and 124? don't remember what it usually comes out to, but i'm sure it was a bit more than 15 blow-down, more like 26. the best way i was told to do it was to use a chunk of square stock bolted to the top of the cylinders as a piston stop, then you can measure the degrees it travles, and match it up with the wheel.

j/k that's my pc's....

invisible suspension is the best kind

x2, but make sure your cable is lubed good, and everything else moves smoothly, before cutting. i think people go 1 or 2 cuts usually....but remember, you have to watch out for slide and cable sticking more closely.

how do you do an air=leak test with the carbs on, and it not running?

well, one side problems doesn not come from a bad coil. a bad coil would be both sides. a plug cap can go bad, and your flywheel can be out of true, from bad install, or improper removal, or something. you do, definately have a problem i mentioned, if the fuel is coming out of the over flow/drain tube, and you need to fix that first, before trying to diagnose a flooded cylinder....... now, if it's backfiring into the carb, then it would spit out of the carb and you could see by taking the filter, or air box off and stabbing the throttle. that would be a bad reed. there is normal amount of back spitting, but not enough to spit a lot of fuel out, just a little.

go to the home page, not forum home, and check the technical info. it tels you how to ohm the stator and what specs. also, test your functions at the cdi plug (harness side) the red/black wire must have continuity with ground(black) to run (key switch wire) and the black/white wire cannot have continuity with ground to run(killswitch, and tors "kill" wire)

well, like i mentioned, a "miss-spark" (made up term) can suck a ring land, which is the "land" or piston area that holds the rings in...... the low detail pic didn't leave enough for me to see the difference. they can look similar, and you break a ring half the time you have a melt-down, which is what makes you stop, or it back-fire. i suspect this, because i don't see any sign of detonation, or melting on the un-damaged parts of the piston crown or dome. i have seen both first hand. did it seem to shake a lot, or pop at idle and lower rpm's? the lean condition can come from a glazed carburetor surface, or under-tightened clamp, as well as plugged jets, fuel separation, or other flow issues, even the gas cap. if you can get a more detailed pic, i can probably tell you exactly what happened. (fuel, spark, or snag) this tear-down is very crucial in paying attention to detail and taking pics, due to the nature of the implications. i'd hate to see uninformed actions

there ya go.......i run the pcp's on mine. trails, woods, and all the hillclimbs i can find. they pull real hard for a long range..

ohm everything out, including the stator. check the plug caps for moisture, wires melting on the exhaust, and go ride it untill it hapens, and give the cdi a good smack and see if it sparks. that is about the only test you can do. it actually makes dry solder connections work again. another thing that happened to me- the wires were breaking off the key switch, and it would cut spark intermittently when i went through water, but eventually pick back up when it dried. it went on for like an hour, then i finally had to find, and bypass the problem on the trails because it would cut out when i turned the bars at that point....

something happened with the float/needle/seat assembly. check float height and operation, and clean out the needle/seat..

man, could you take some tinier pics for me? without seeing more detail, i would have to say it most definately looks like a lean burn-down. you can see the typical melt-out through the exhaust. that ring "snag" is it breaking off because the ring land was blown out. a closer pic could show if it was actually melted, or spark related, which can also suck a ring land....

i almost gaurantee it's lean condition. on an ideal burn scenario, the burn completes while the exhaust is open, and is contained within a surface boundary. on a lean condition, the burn comlpetes prematurely, leaving only heat, and the boundary layer will break down and allow the heat to transfer. basically, an escilating effect that builds the surface temperatures, not only hot enough to ignite the a/f mix, but subsequently, absorb more heat when that happens, melting the aluminum. just to be clear- detonation is an uncontrolled and random explosion/ignition, caused by a great number of things, primarily, premature ignition, through heat/compression or sparking too soon, incomplete fuel mix at time of igntioin, which creates hot/cool pockets, etc. basically, too much timing, too unstable fuel mix, or too lean. pre-ignition is a differnt thing than detonation. it is simply ignition that happens before spark. however, detonation usually follows pre-ignition..... if you ever hear "pre-detonation", that is a very common made-up word, and is completely fictitious. spark scatter could also be a culprit, but not a common one on banshee's. check the plug caps/wires first. check any signs of insulator failure (even though it may be hard to tell from the damage) i have seen it verry often on champoin, and some bosh/autolite's....also, look to see if the inside insulator is glazed. (smoked brown-gold with wet appearance) next, check the flywheel true(both node gaps on pick-up) this is all supplimental, of coarse, to the abouve carb/air leak advise. if you run a good oil, then it should creep out of any leak, except mabey the top.

yes, i understand the theory well, but what i'm saying is- high tensile strength doesn't really mean high durability. speaking from experience... there is just good chains, and not-so-good

well, you have to check the free-play on the lever at the case first, with the cabe slacked off, or disconnected. then you adjust the cable

i recomend the mull, as well. they have one that uses your stock shaft. that's not a bad thing. it seems no one can make a shaft that holds up to wear better than the stock shaft

yes, it doesn't matter if it was 110mm, or 115mm rods, that just changes the pistons. either there is a 1.5mm plate under the cyls that could be mistaken for a gasket, or between the head and cylinders, or the domes are cut deeper for the extra stroke. i used to have some domes to trade ya, but i traded those away. i would definitely check the squish. it will really kill some power.

i think most plates do 10 degrees both ways....if it was advanced 10 degrees, that could be bad. on the other hand, if it's a stock modified plate, then it could be only advanced +5.5 or less, which is a decent setting for low and mid-range power, but takes a tad off the top-end power, maybe not noticeable, though.

i run gm auto trac 2......

sounds badass....

bump

woop, almost forgot to bump this this fall.........well due for melt-down prevention about now guys....