AKheathen

namura does....

you gotta watch out for oil build-up lubricating the plugs. heat the dent where you want it to bend, then apply air, and release. repeat untill smooth. the hotter the flame, the better....it will cook anything off the pipes, so it will be raw when you are done

up, waaayyyy up..... don't listen to the jets-r-us reference..... 380 sounds about right......

i take it, this comes from some shout convos?

really, the best thing is to put it on a degree wheel, and find out what the timings are at......i think the stock exhaust may be 31-32mm to the top, but don't care to find the rest of the measurements

that 121 compression, is it with the 20cc domes? also, are the domes for stock stroke, or stroker? the symptoms sound like it could be stroker domes. also, thry switching the float bowls from left-right. if you get the one with the choke jet installed in it on the right carb, then the choke will not work

oh, i missed this bit in the shout.....after looking at the adjustment, remove the pressure plate and make sure it is seated all the way down on the hub. one of the arrows will line up with the arrow on the hub. before trying to put it back on, though, make sure there is not burrs on the splines. one rule of thumb- if it doesn't press the clutches together when you slide it on, turn it 1 bolt/spring hole and try again.

lean mains

denso iridium iw24......never fouled, never changed..1.5 years

what kind of piston damage? sounds like you may have melted it down from a lean condition...likely case sealant. you didn't use rtv, did you? that pretty much explains a lot, and possibly even lead to oil starvation in the trans/clutch. if you are like most people that don't really know the banshee, then you might not have noticed the excessive smoke or smell from burning trans oil, that and the fact that you did not realize that a banshee will start and run very strong, reliable, and like new until the day it fails, unlike a 4-stroke, as long as you keep the carbs in good tune. the oil normally has some metal present, especially after failure in the geartrain. iclean and inspect everything real good. use brake kleen on the fibres and everything, but be sure to re-oil it all before assembly. use proper case sealant and do a leak-down test when you put it back together

if it's sputtering and breaking up when you stab the throttle wot, then it's rich...rich enough and it will even fall on it's face......if it just winds up or gets kinda quiet and seems to fall flat, until you back out of it, then it's lean....

high heat on the puller will heat the flywheel, not the crank......newb. people have been welding the puller on the banshee flywheel for 20years, as a last resort, and it works......if you can lay a good weld in a timely manner. the heat will transfer to the flywheel faster than a torch. another thing you can do, if it refuses, is drill the flywheel along the taper. this will relax it some

lol, all that thing does is make you a little wider, and add a little weight....but the geometry is gonna be worse...like taking a small car off road. the arms already pivot far enough away from center as it is......

...which means, you need to back out the push bolt in the puller, and crank it into the flywheel as hard as you can, mabey even back out and clean the threads again and crank it back. when you crank the push bolt in, use a wrench on the puller, not the flywheel, or it could back back out. get some good pressure on it, and first hit the end of the puller strait in, mabey holding the flywheel a little, but not prying on it. if that doesn't pop it, then put a torch on the puller, and the heat should transfer into the flywheel first, and try everything again.

just don't mix up the drums.

no problem man

of course, the book could be referring to mm, as well, which would be .010"-.030".......kinda sounds like what i remember for clearance... one thing i considered, and actually decided to go with, is that if it takes almost the same amount to repair the crank, then, for a little more, you can build one up that is better than a new one. i'm actually waiting on funds to send 2 hr 4mill cranks out to get built up the way i want, with better parts all around. just gotta pick up the twister rod bearings, and i should be set for parts, but anyways, it is an option....

ok, if your exhaust is 184 degrees, then that 25 degrees after that that the thransfers open is the blow-down. the math says your transfers are at 126 degrees right now. you first raise the exhaust untill it reaches what you want. you can make a mark with permenant marker where the top of the port should be (186 degrees) and then cut the exhaust. then bolt it back together and measure your work. then, do the same to get your blow-down

just a good 'ole 4mill long rod hr welded....i think it was ryan....

lol, that was a year and a half ago......yah, i pushed the dents out.......and cleaned them up after these pics.......been running them ever since.

yes, different types of pistons use different sidewall clearances, since they expand differently with heat. you should be able to get the info right from namura, or the namura retailer, if it was not provided with the pistons

oh, there has been issues with hr. they use a cheap rod bearing, center seal, and 7-ball bearings. i've seen where they welded a bead that interferes with operation (case rubbing) numerous failures, but not out of the norm, and i think even a couple that liked to separate, even after warranty repair...

i don't think the guy is chineese, and all the cranks in question are built with the options of differnet webbing, rods, bearings, and probably seals.....so yah, he probably picked out which he wanted of each component and had them built, which is, by definition, custom..... this is if, indeed, they are all being built at the same place. they still, are usually not the same crank 100%

with +12 timing, you are nutz for not running a trued/welded crank. how old is it? looks like it just failed. kinda hard to tell what is failure and what is collateral damage. if you plan on repairing that crank, you should check out that rod/bearing. at the least it needs to be tightened, but the heat marks say that it got extremely hot and is about to fail, unless it was from a rebuild. could be possible damage from lack of purging, or oil separation. just some things to think about....

i would not touch them. it weakens normal pistons. you can buy some that are already manufactured with the bigger windows, and boost porting. on those, they are beefed up when they make them.