AKheathen

sweet, man.......just one thing- why 90 degree crank on 3 cyl? i'm not experienced on it, but it sounds to me that it would be more of an imballance (like a 4cyl with a dead hole) than help with torque. i understand plenty about running a 90 on a twin, though. mabey a 120*?

OK, well, i have to say that the one dealing i had was pretty "neutral"....i didn't leave neutral feedback on eBay....i don't thin i even left any feedback, which most likely happens with half the people out there as well. it was just because "neutral" means "bad" on eBay. did i get ripped off? no. was it professional? not even close. OK, so i was looking for cheap, usable stock reed cages just to practice porting them. $10/ea. was a decent price, so i messaged him to make sure 2 sets had deflectors, and that i could get combined shipping, since there will be 4 small things in one package. he responded, and said yes on both. well, i bought them, and then no response to my messages about getting the combined shipping to come up on check out. requested total from seller a few times, then just paid the full price for each 2 days later, so i don't get a non-payment feedback, or late payment. i pay immediately as soon as i buy on eBay, and keep my feedback responses "A++ good buyer, fast payment" well, i got them all in one package and overpaid $15 on shipping, plus one set was dry rotted real bad and cracked too bad to ever use. on the flip side, i got 2 sets of good stock reeds, one high rpm single pedal set, and one good set of boysen power reeds installed, so i was satisfied by that, and just called it a wash, and look at it as buying the reeds for $15....well $25, if you count the bad pair of cages. basically my experience, and all the dealings I've seen on here clearly shows lack of management, training, and/or incentive to keep his employees running his business good. i say that ray should audit his system, evaluate how the bikes are torn down, and get them a digital camera to take actual pictures of each item being sold, so there is no mis-representation. getting the right pics is easy as shit. step1- take pics of the items as they are being stripped. step 2- put the memory card in the computer. step 3- upload the pics. total- 5min process for the whole bike., and $30-$40 for a cheap digital camera and memory card. secondly, any discrepancy should be made accountable to the person making the mistake. if they post the wrong part, they have to fix it on their own time. if there is a return the cost should go to that person, either damage that could have been avoided on tear-down, or shipping costs to send the correct part that wasn't sent, etc...you get the pic. when i worked at another truck shop, drivers were assigned a truck, and anytime they fucked up, the cost to make it right came right out of their paycheck. one even bought me a new composite headlight for my car, because he got on the highway and spit rocks everywhere, which he was supposed to clear off the fenders after getting loaded. instead of letting him get away the owner made an honest man out of him, lol. he did his pre-trips after that. well, i digress. now that ray is a sponsor, we can actually post feedback on this site. before, the thing that really chapped my ass and prevented me from buying allot of parts after that is that he could list his eBay auctions in the for sale forum, yet would refuse to actually sell there. the only way to buy anything from him is he would re-direct you to eBay, so even if there was a problem, it was kept a secret off this site. "even if there is problems on eBay, he still hasn't ripped anyone off through this site" so, basically all i could pass on in the shout is that there has been eBay discrepancies, and he has kids doing everything for him, and he doesn't keep up on everything, but he has never intentionally ripped anyone off, and never through bhq. another thing is that i hold ALL bhq sponsors to a high standard, and i have always seen it to be the case on this site, rather than other sites that would let anyone be a sponsor. if that standard has changed, then i guess I'll just have to relay "buyer beware" in all posts and shouts, and live with the disappointment that there is no longer a safe place to do business on the internet. i think it is possible to live up to sponsor standards of conduct, and not really cost anything, but a little initiative

actually, the only way the plate does not sacrifice performance, is if the cylinders are ported to account for the plate. even then, there isn't much meat left in the cyls. to port lower then a dune/drag port, most definitely not low enough on the transfers to accommodate a mx port job. however, what a plate does sacrifice, is reliability. the spacer plates are stamped out of nice, smooth aluminum plate, which isn't the best, or near as good as a machined surface for gasket adhesion. basically 3x the chance of a leak, or shifting. as for the stock head/coolhead choice, off-the-shelf domes do have a better cut to them than a stock chamber, but what is more- you can get the best custom cut domes for your application through a sponsor for anywhere between 70-90 bucks. choosing which head to run pretty much depends on cost, aesthetics, and ease of installation. noss, fast (noss) and a couple others offer a 1-piece shell that can use the stock head studs to mount, but you may not like the recessed nut look, or if you buy used, you take whatever you like. really no head will be a bad design. stock heads can also be re-chambered really nice, but you are slightly limited on what you can do, and once it's cut, that's what you got. as far as installing a crank- if you are handy with tools, and can read the book, it's really simple and not easy to mess up. you can do it, or have the shop do it. no need for "banshee guys" there. best thing you can do right now, is call around to different sponsors and pick the one you like for whatever reason. they all make the best outcome you can get. I'm partial to wildcard racing, but you should choose who you are most comfortable with. once you pick who you like, let them walk you through your build, and get you setup. they will port your cylinders based on every little thing, like pipes, carbs, reeds, timing, rider weight, ridding style, fuel, future plans, etc. the more you let them decide, instead of us, the better your build will be.

well, it all depends on the condition of the kickers, and what kind of "rebuild" you want.......i can probably do $10/ea. or even less +shipping. i fly home for my r&r tomorrow afternoon. hit me up.

i can't really agree......

you sure you didn't leave that atf in there too long, or force the shifter? i might be interested in the left-overs when you are done with it...

um, charriot reed setup is actually built for the boysen reed. they are good for up to 4mill drag builds, actually. the power reeds give a really smooth, controllable throttle, and smooth out the lightswitch powerband, while adding a few ponies. the pro reeds are a more crisp strong respone, similar to vforce, but with a stronger mid, rather than top focus.

nah, nothing wrong with my stockers....except, that they are butt-ugly

everything is so expensive because you are paying for the name. the pyramid reeds don't perform as well as vforce, or boysen......

tripple exhaust?

sending pm on box of knick-nacks

lol.....um, that little black box sitting on the exhaust- unplug it and recheck for spark.....if tors is removed, that box will not let it spark at all. there is no parking brake box, it's built into the cdi. go to the back of the box, and in your harness there is a green/yellow wire. clip that wire and the parking brake limiter is gone. the gap on the flywheel pickup you can set with a sparkplug box flap. if you go to the homepage, you can find the tech docs that have the whole electrical testing parameters in it. only thing is- most coils you catually test the secondary from cap-to-cap, not cap to (-)

how much shipped to 99516-2724?

best to let jeff handle the tuning.

ok, 100mm soft, 175..hard.....

slacker

actually, it's the opposite with the 2. short rod 4mill will rev quicker and higher more easily, having more to do with better balance then a long-rod. the short-rod will also have less dwell time, and slightly different durations, resulting in more blow-down than a long-rod with the same port heights. now, trying to compare the 2 as far as power and torque is an apples-oranges scenario. they benefit better for different applications, and, like i mentioned already, will change port timing on the same set of cyls, so you can't really do a good control, but it's been researched plenty, lol. the rod angle is really not that huge of a differnce as everyone stresses. so, basically longrod should be used for more torquey builds, such as yours, from woods, to dune, and even drag, as many do, but shortrod is really best kept in the drag scene, and other topend builds. i'm sure the porting for those builds will see the end of the ring life 3 times before the slightest rod-angle related wear can be picked up.

did you just disconnect the carb wires, or did you also unplug the little black box under the gas tank?

shake it, as mentioned, run some emery cloth in the taper to clean it up. get a screwdriver and drag it over the inside of the flywheel. it should grab to 12 evenly spaced spots. the magnets are not verry strong to begin with, but they are permanent magnets, none the less, so idk if 450 degrees is enough to hurt them, but may be enough to loosen the glue.

well, i would imagine the exhaust was pulled to install the plugs in the holes.......if not, that needs to be done

...and that's 2 runs on the plugs. just pull through 6th and stop and change it out. don't turn around and come back before changing it out.. check your grounds first, including the timing plate.

unclip the retainer and remove the wires

wtf?? your interests are wife-->xbox360-->guns------> then banshee?!?!?.....i think that's totally backwards snoopy

lol, only in "dry" villiages, since too many people will just stay drunk all day. everywhere else is fine. bars stay open 'till 5am out in the valley.

a little, and allot, lol basically, the shift pattern is different, and the gears are cut a little different, depending on which one. it's so you can shift under load. the duneable can handle a little backloading