AKheathen

start with a leak-down test......could be the cases leaking

say what? you talking about the lever rod poping out of the case, right under the carbs? if so, you may not have had it all the way in, or oriented right when you adjusted the clutch....

the springs are pretty critcal for pushing the fork to get the gear out of the way when the other one takes the load. otherwise, the next gear will throw a back-load on the previous gear, possibly locking it in 2 gears at once. if the dogs are not rounded at all, check the shaft splines for wear. that can add resistance for the gear trying to slide in.

she has a slutty and easily available look......damn near see her panties...if she is wearin them.......if she knows how to flirt good, then she will do great, lol........i walk into a stero shop pretty much knowing everything already, but i'd let her try to sell me stuff.......although i wouldn't make it quick and easy

oh, and what coil and stator were you running on the dyna? plugs, too

i'll have to check that, and see if it goes away with different retarded curves, and plate advance......

oh, no you did-ent.........r.i.p. bob

yes, joy riding is one of them.......i ride for fun...mx/wood/trail/hillshooting, and would hate to be stuck with stock curves, where i would have to choose between it running well in the woods/trails that i take to get to the hillshots, or runnig good on the hillshots, but not so great in the woods, which would probably wear me out more by the time i get to the hills.....i also love the fact that i can plug my trailtech right into the tach out...among other things

start by posting in the jetting and exhaust section, not repairs. need to know- what carbs they are (mikuni vm, tm, tmx, and what size. any airbox, or filter mods. elevation and ambient riding temp.

also, make sure you didn't put one ring in up-side down. some rings have a bevel on the inside, or other recess, like square. some are tapered. that is to let more pressure in behind the ring to help seal better, which needs to face upward, and tapered rings have the leading edge down. if you got one in up-side down, it would not have cut good, and will have low compression.

wait a minuet........ i never got verification if i'm gettting the pipes yet........

no the red/brown are unused in the switch harness. those are functions on another atv, that uses the same switch....most likely ignition power for actuators and such. it's easiest to ground the red/black close to the cdi plug to keep things simpler, if you never plan on using the function on that harness.

you are supposed to use the choke untill the choke starts to load it up (about 30 sec).......

talk to snopczynski he does lots and knows the guy who makes the lights. he runs them, and has a battery, but doesn't need it. oh, and being diodes, leds will run on ac and dc....they can flicker some on ac, though

$50 shipped? pay pal

so, is this a definate occurence that happens to everyone, yet you are the first one i've seen talk about it? everyone else who has run one in drag must just be too ashamed to admit it, then.......... i don't know your experience, but it could be possible that you were running a high output coil, which they don't always like.....the circuitry is designed to increase the output of a stock coil. also, never being at all interested in racing, i have found the dyna fs programmable very much worth the price. but, i'm not simply doing a mild build, either. even though, i went ahead and put it on a somewhat mild build with just bolt-ons this spring, and it was a night and day difference to pick up some lost top-end, without having to sacrifice the low-mid punch from advancing. i'm sure i'll be more than happy with the custom curves i'm going to be putting in there.....

no, you never need one....but it has a whole bunch of features you can't get elsewhere. it does make a difference you can feel and use, without having to choose between topend and low-end adjustments

did you map out your ports with everything bolted down good and make sure they are all symetrical? are they all chamfered good, so the ring doesn't snag? are you getting good spark and fuel to both cylinders? you said the compression was even to both cylinders before break-in, right?

i sent you $67.03 an hour and a half ago.....

i want one...how much?..............come to think of it....that is an excellent idea for getting guys to upgrade to a real system, lol

well, at 5mm, the ring pops out, usually. i'd have to say, you want to keep the ring 1.5 to 2mm down, but that's just looking at all the different setups i've seen

lol, yah, that's the same thing i was assuming. and the serval should have a higher trapped cr. i've just never heard anyone confirm the dome size for 93oct. asl, and 0 to +4 timing

good guy to do business with. got some no-whack cases from him with nick-knacks packed good with tracking and no problems. even offered full refund if i wasn't satisfied, and good price, too won't hesitate to buy from again

i keep missing out on a few items, mostly because i'm a few hours behind everyone... stock virgin (not ported) cylinders in the $100 range. even used up ported ones if cheap enough flywheels hopin $30+ "bad" stators dirt cheap tranny stuff oh, and lower case half for staging thanx, heath

interested in the silencers.......which ones are they? 304's go strait through, and 296 have a spark arrestor a couple inches inside that you can see.