AKheathen

well, how about a black/yellow theme?.......what is it now?

uhh..........you should really pull your pressure plate and rod/ball out, or at least try. it may be welding the ball to the rod, or about to. if not, you will be able to move the rod around without the pressure, and even pull it out once you unbolt the retainer

have you read the rmatv reviews? doesn't seem to fair well to heavy use for the past 3 years........ where i ride, it's split second to pull or slip the clutch, or you are goin for a hell of a ride to the bottom.

yah, basically, it gets the burn started sooner, so the most powerful part of the burn happens durring the part of the stroke that can do the most work. stock, it's normally kept a little conserative because some are just gonna run any old fuel in there. the thing about advancing it, is that it also increases the amount of work needed to get to tdc. basically, you gain in the bottom/mid and loose in the top-end. +4 is generally what most find as a good ballance, but people do run different. i liked+5.5 on the stock cdi, and some run anywhere in the +12 to -7 range, from what i've seen

has anybody ever had a problem with the steel bushing welding/gauling?

wow, you must be getting some good head............quite out of character for you

lol, it's simply the type of induction they made them as from the factory. there is piston port induction, crankcase induction (pretty much all 2-stroke sleds) and forced induction. if the port is low enough that the piston is out of the way long enough, then you really don't need windows. it's a very common known mod to trim the pistons on a crank induction setup for more flow. it is, however a plain and simple trade-off of performance vs. piston life. when you trim, the piston is allowed more rock, which increases wear, which increases rock. so, basically, it starts to wear sooner, and wear rate increases as it wears..........now, windowed pistons, on the other hand, solves this problem...for the most part. a windowed piston allows for a much longer piston to be used, without the added weight, or intrusion. the trade off, is structural integrity. it's like building a load-bearing wall in your house. you trim it, and you have more walking room. or, you take a section out of the middle, and can walk right through, but it holds less load. porting the windows is like using 20"-24" on center studs, instead of 16" it may work and hold just fine for a while (i've seen it) or it can mean the difference of an earthquake bringing down the house or not, not to mention every time someone slams a well-built door, it shakes pretty good....i digress, lol......basically, a ported piston can let go and explode without warning, especially if it's not done by a pro. that being said, there are builders that know well how to do it in the most reliable manner, like where to take material off each brand and modle piston, that gives the best gain and takes the least integrity out......now, forced induction......simply the best option for 2-stroke power, minus the oil burning. been done for years, but, it was usually complicated since you need a supercharger to even run, which lacked top-end, so there was a setup which used a compressor that opened up to allow the turbo(s) to charge at higher rpm's....

what's the temps?

lol, it's not really a spacer.......it holds the emulsion tube in.....normally, the tube is corroded in place and doesn't fall you when you loose it...but several have had it pop out, too

actually...if you really want to know, you need to figure out what kind of dynamic compression, and other variables........93 can start to detonate anywhere between 140psi and 190psi, really.....

i have a ptr powerhead.......imho, it is the cleanest looking head i've seen all polished up......i know my stock nuts were ugly, but that was when i first installed it that being said.........unless you like the same big simple block all polished, there is no reason not to go with a noss or fast(noss) head. they are a real nice, well built, reliable, and easy to use head.

well, then that's probably where most of your troubles were coming from....... mabey one day, i'll throw the dyna on there with the plate backed off and show you what a real difference different curves make.....

i thought they came with either the bigger one with the same connector, or 1157 or something similar.....i never had one...

well, then that's 12 watts you free up......and i can tell you that when you are close to the limit, 10 watts makes a real big difference.....

huh?

well the tail is 13watts.....so how many are the led tails?

one of the biggest reasons for leaking on any head is lack of re-torquing after a few heat cycles. it's not just cool-heads. i think the cool-heads get the rep because many just slap one on, where they otherwise would not even have the head off in the first place. the only other thing is when you get crazy with the compression (like 200psi cranking+) then it can add to the chances of blowing out an o-ring, but for most......just make sure to re-torque....

i know i'll never go back to stock from the dyna.......

umm.....what's wrong with the dyna fs programmable? you can get it in just the fs, if you want, but why don't you want it? if you are looking for the right curve, one of the 3 will likely be ok, but custom will get you the exact curve you want.....

thank you for bumping that pic.......i soo want to mount her right now...............lucky bike

well, i let my nuts swing for everyone to see, but that's the only nut-swingin i do.....i remembering this all being mentioned/stirred up little over a year ago let's not go there again.............however, since we are throwing out names, i'll bring up brandon at wildcard. brandon builds some bad-ass motors, and is a perfectionist in his work....he told me he once spent like 22 hours on one set of cylinders making them perfect. b and shay are real good people....long story short- this site does not just allow any builder to sponsor...they need to be a good one, so all you are really left with is talking to different sponsors and pick which one you like for whatever reason

well, if you really want to know for sure, then just get out a caliper mic and measure inside the dome. if the edge of the squish is smaller than the bore, by .25mm or more, then you need big bores.

i think 20cc domes asl ran awesome on 90 oct. actually......but stock timing...

well, i have a bearing/seal puller attatchment for my slide hammer, but you can also invert a small jaw puller.......they are usually in there real good, though.......i had to use a race splitter and sleeve cutter (a half-round chisel punch, and angled 4-point) to get them out. if you go at it at the top to split it, then you really don't have to worry much about small gouges. i've also used my die grinder tu grind out the same style needle bushing race on my 4-runner. even went a little deep and it's still holding 6-7 years and a lot of 4x and highway use...just filled the divot with jb-weld

well that depends on the trails....if you just ride woods and such, then the gnarley will work better for grunt, but the sst is the wide-band....so it has good off idle, increased mid, and even pulls overrev........i don't think it will suck in trails as much as the carbs...