AKheathen

what kind of ridding? and your gonna run 100% race fuel, right?

sounds like you had an air leak and leaned out. i'd bet your compression #'s are way low, and uneven. if that's the case, it's time for a rebuild sorry :sad:

completely stock? what did your plugs look like? have you cleaned your air filter lately?

don't be mad at the bike, dude. that's like saying "I'm dissapointed that my dog won't play fetch when i kick him" just need to jet it right. if your that woried about buying new spark plugs, just put a propane or mapp torch to them, untill they glow red, and they will be clean. the choke only works when there is a vaccuum on the backside of the carb, so it will only affect up to 1/3 throttle, maybey 1/2 @ higer rpm's. with pods and pipes, you'll probably be fine with stock pilots, maybey 27.5's once you have the mains right, and likely a leaner needle setting. get your main jets dialed in with the needle in the middle, and stock pilots with the airscrews @ 1.5, then play with the rest

does it cut out like a lightswitch as soon as you give it a little? does it only rev a little bit? does it sputter out?

is the red/black wire grounded @ the keyswitch? it turns into red and brown @ the switch. red and green wires are the ignition coil windings red/white and green/white are the pickup you probably won't be able to read anything off the orange wire, unless you are using a led testlight

likely the tors, if your sure the jetting is right

haha, just got home a little while ago, so i couldn't repair them yet. wth happened? looks like the left side of your bike got pretty hashed, enough to twist the pipe :woot: can't complain for 50 bucks i'll let you know how it turns out when i'm done :thumbsup: what kind of silencers did they have? i have the older fmf silencers, and toomy silencers.

i would suspect choke tube leakage, or something to do with the pto.

feels fucking it how see you now this read to trying time ass sweet your took you since :biggrin:

if you want it smoother down low @ partial throttle, go with the power reeds. if your looking for more punch, go for the pro's. either will perform well.

only loss of lowend would be from going wot on the bottom with 34's

i meant to mod the inside of the lid by cutting the sides of the intake tract so that it still deflects junk off the filter, but isn't as restrictive. :ohmy: drastic change in profile, mj

if you warmmed it up, put new plugs in, and then went wot, and killed it. the insulators being tan means that the mains are too big. get those right, then play with the needle, untill the sputter is gone. by last clip, you mean closest to the blunt end, right?

umm.. i'm not the expert i just know how, and learned alot from this site. what's the deal with that carb pic? it wouldn't really work for a banshee. i don't have your setup memorized, so provide the info that i posted about early this morning, and WE can help get you close :thumbsup:

not directed toward any one person, but about 90% of first response is asking for more info, so I'll ask preemptively. we need the following :biggrin: elevation: there is an elevation finder pinned here @ the top temperature: this does make a difference fuel used: oil mix: non specific, just need ratios pipes: kind of specific. for example, fmf has several pipes that are jetted differently, and state if, for some reason, you are running different silencers than they came with. reeds: anything other than stock porting: if you are ported, just what kind compression mods: coolhead/powerhead/shaved stocker, and what size domes air filter mods: box/snorkel, box w/lid, power-lid, no lid, box mod, or pods. i think that's it. if not, please add :thumbsup:

i would start by checking for spark and looking for where it could be leaking air. clean out the carbs real good, and you'll probably need bigger pilots. is there fuel on the new plugs? make sure your slides/cables aren't sticking.

what's your elevation and temp?

haha, just read through that shit without noticing the year. :shoothead: good stuff

if it seems to shut off like a light switch, i'd say it's a messed up thumbswitch. unplug the little black box next to the coil on the left

mine was hard starting when i got it, even with the 25's drilled out bigger than the 30's i have now. turned out that, not only were the bowls on the wrong side, but the cable retainers were screwed on backwards, fixed both problems right away, and starts first or second kick below 0, after sitting for a month at a time.

lemmie know how that works out.

10-11 bucks off ebay. havn't checked locally recently

ok, i was being facecious. ots ignition modules aren't really exotic, but complete emu's with advanced interface are. i'll check on a dyno, but i don't think it'll be up for a few months. so let me get this strait- you want me to search out, and pay for dyno time, then buy 100 br9's, or pay dyno time, and only get 10? i'm sure the price has dropped quite a bit in 8 years, so that hardly seems fair, especially since i would only need 2 plugs, and would only use a new pair to do a plug chop. surely you can come up with a better deal than that :biggrin: oh, and the 03 review just states that it's not a new plug, just few want to pony up to try. you don't see any new reviews on what an old msd6al does

my bad, it's at the top of jetting and exhaust