AKheathen

that tube goes to a 1/4" hole in the right carb bore. it will cause a big air leak

ok, i couldn't find the gaurantee online, but can quote from their site

ngk iridium is not the same as denso iridium

def. drop your front sprocket to a 14 or 15. without knowing what it's ported for, you can't really match pipes, but if it's just a cleanup, the fmf's will probably be fine. what fmf's do you have?

haha, i get it. some picky motherfuckers around. "i want free shit, but too much is unacceptible" like you're so poor, you don't own a trash can. or, i'd rather pay more to get everything from one guy, than from 2 different people, so i only have to pay shipping once" dude, "12bucks shipped" no extra shipping charges there- just peice it, or buy new "the perfect deal" isn't always there

alot of trucks from the late 90's-up can do that from the factory. don't remember if it was the frontier, or canyon i was looking at, that had like 3 settings. they also have power gates, and step-downs. you can strap the latches to your rails, too. or you can buy a bed-extender, which goes out over your down gate, and flips over to hold things near your gate when closed

when it comes to pipes, they aren't really "better or worse" more like where they make power. i have been hearing alot of mention of bills pipes, but not really sure what power range they have. the fatties, i believe are a topend pipe for a mild engine, but the fmf silencers help broaden the range.

you may want to mod your lid a bit, too. :biggrin:

the main reason i suggest 310-320, is that everyone knows that you go down a size running the same fuel, but if you are buying local pump, it changes every 2000 ft. and makes you go up 2 sizes or more. so basically, if you ride sea level, but make a trip to the pass @ about 1750 and up, you will be fine by dropping a size. when you use up your fuel and need to buy more, the local station will have fuel that is formulated to atomize differently for higher elevations, which, in short, calls for 2 sizes larger mains than the sea level fuel. this is one reason why gas pumps have a disclaimer "not for use in aircraft engines" not sure if i explained that right, but it comes out to about to +1 per 2000ft or so, on pump

have you put fresh fuel in it from a local station yet? what's your temp? you should be somewheres around 270-300 mains with the needle 1 or 2 clips leaner (tward the blunt end) than it is. if you are near the highest elevation around, the local fuel will be the same as sea level, calling for 1 size leaner main, but the temp will make a difference, too

one on the front mount, and one on the rear mount. so basically, only one for the rear mount

yeah, IMO it's about the same as side gapping in regards to a more exposed spark path, but with the spark protruding further into the chamber. i saw no reduction in fouling, as that is solely a matter of tuning.

first things first, what kind of ridding do you do, and what kind of porting do you have?

1.5

for starters, only plug i know of that comes with a 5-7% hp gaurantee. the electrode is smaller than a .05 lead pencil. zero wear charictaristics. basically, you never have to buy another set. if you foul or even glaze, you can just torch them and put back in. trust me, i've done it. i havn't checked the price in a few years, but i'm gonna get some for the shee, since i've baught 3 sets of br8's and havn't gotten past the first set yet. i'll just use the other 2 for plug chopping.

if you took it to the track without rejetting, then pull your coolhead, and check the pistons. you may be in for a rebuild now, not soon. you could be lucky, but jetting isn't just something that you should do, as much as a necesity. there is an elevation finder pinned here at the top. we need that, temp, porting? timing, dome size, and what pipes

i'll let mofoka have first dibbs. i'm fine with 30's right now, but my 25's and 27.5's are messed up, and i'll need more mains by spring

check that your float bowls are on the right side. one hase a little brass bead in the side, which goes to the choke side carb

i might take whatever mofo doesn't. what's your selection of pilots/ needles?

also, shine a light down the pilot hole, and make sure you see a pinhole through the little kole in the reedside bore

you may have junk in your carb bowls, too. and as above mentioned, you must re-jet for those mods, or you will be running way too lean

you should run an 8. b8es, br8ecs, br8eya, any 8 plug baisically. i just used the different range plug to "cheat" while i was tuniing the plate out of normal elements. the right thing to do is to just jet it for colder temps. rule of thumb is 1 main jet size for every 25 degree drop, and 1 pilot for 50-70 degree drop, but you can fudge the pilot with airscrew and needle settings oh, and if you think 10 dollars a piece is steep for a plug, try paying $29.00 a piece for denso irridium

clicky

it's simply called clutching, and is what you should do in that situation. feathering is what you do to get going, and is what wears the clutch out. there is nothing wrong with clutching, as long as you don't "feather" back into it. p.s. you can also clutch to launch harder over a hill

ecs is a gold palladium plug. i used the 10's once to fight glazing when i was adjusting my rotary valve in my sno-go @ 45degrees. i dropped back to 9's when the temp went back down, but it uses 9's normally, and always ride in freezing temps. as for the banshee, the 9's won't be able to stay hot enough to burn off deposits, and will foul if your jetting is right. as far as gold palladium goes, it's somewhere between platnum and irridium. i only noticed anything with denso irridiums, but that's because they work kind of like side gapping.