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AKheathen

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Everything posted by AKheathen

  1. would you like advise frome someone who doesn't understan what you're sayin? i wouldn't. spelling and punctuation is one thing, but not making sense is like huh?
  2. oh chit, didn't realize no one answered. only difference is the plug :thumbsup:
  3. that bar pad 9-10"?
  4. sounds like it could be the voltage reg. or melted wires by the exhaust
  5. did you put the new jets in yet? what are you mixing @?
  6. haha, didn't notice. when you check the reeds, you're just looking for cracks, deterioration, or gapping of 1mm or more. if they are gapped, you can just flip the pedals. a little imballance can be corrected by playing with the idle and airscrews after you sync them. idle to adjust the pressure coming out, and airscrew to get the pulses firing evenly.
  7. that bogging at the bottom can be fixed by playing with the airscrews and/or dropping the needles, but the backfire is likely coming from lean mains. normally you start by getting the mains right, then setting the needle to run right between 1/8-3/4 throttle, and then the pilot.
  8. think of it this way, your jetting ratio is 2:3 from then, till now. so now, @ 32:1 with the new jets, you are like running 20:1 on the previous. 48:1 would be the same amount of oil as you were running before @ 32:1. i pretty much guage the oil mix by the smoke, but i double checked by how much oil is actually in the juggs. dropping th needle will help the low-mid throttle, but you are having lean problems up top. mix some fresh 40:1 and try again. running less oil will richen up the fuel, too.
  9. actually you run less oil in the cold, because it doesn't really atomize and burn off as much as the summer. pretty good to beat out the 650 ds. 72mph, on a 15- you must be running 18's?
  10. check your choke plunger and reeds
  11. lean out the oil a bit, and go back up. those are clasic lean symptoms. the smoke is from too much oil
  12. also, if your oil does not support freezing temps, it will separate to the bottom of the tank. this means that you will start out running alot more oil and less fuel. the plugs will oil foul and your fuel will be leaner. jetting is mostly therottle related, rather than rpm
  13. are you sure you have the slides right now? the wonderfull thing about syncing the carbs when they go back together, is that you can only see the dots in the windows when you have them in right. you might wanna think about switching to 40:1 after break in. what do the plugs look like?
  14. yup that's the air jet passage that goes strait to the emultion tube, or "needle jet"
  15. sweet deal, man. $50 off ebay, full service, and you're in buisness. all under 9
  16. if yu have stock carbs, the hose just slides over the cast strait nipples. the one is just on the backside of the choke plunger
  17. i did, even have a longer, fatter needle. it just doesn't rip my arms off on the topend anymore. haven't been able to do a plug chop yet
  18. any one ever notice a loss in the topend going between stock reeds and the 2 stage boysen reeds? it still pulls, just not like before :shrug:
  19. stamped right into the frame
  20. i believe it takes 13 wrapson a plug wire. it's been several years, so i'll try to look it up
  21. alright princess, your highness probably has a bad crank seal. do a leakdown
  22. just install them and use a paint pen after
  23. there are other sites out there? i think this b fable
  24. unplug the little black box under the gas tank, to the left of the coil. that's the tors. one verry important piece of advise i can give you, is keep the jetting right, or you can blow the motor. this just means any airflow mods (ie. filtersetups, exhaust, porting) requires jetting. welcome to the addiction
  25. how many wraps? did you try hooking it to the orange wire?
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