AKheathen

it helps, but you need to rejet, and hold the filter down somehow

really? i've never had one move after hand tightening, and they don't really seem to clamp, just seemed to be incase it starts to loosen. i hand tighten, too :shrug:

it's an inkashite part. you can run without, but check it once in a while. :thumbsup: you should be able to buy online, or i can send you one, pay shipping :biggrin:

basically, as your getting goes up dramatically, the amount oil needed to mix goes down.for example, if you are running stock with 200 mains, and your dad is running modded with 300+ mains, you would mix 32:1, and he would mix 40:1. both engines would get the same amount of oil. i'm not telling you to mix 32:1, just goving an example. it really depends on your environmentals, mods, etc. i actually checked the oil content in my internals before running less oil in my mix.

what fuel and what oil/ ratio. i've seen a few sizes larger than normal 0n 93 @ higher elevations, due to the local fuel

haqhahahahahahahahah :yelrotflmao: seriously though, swap your plug wires and see if it's still the same side. after that, i'd do a compression test.

the reason some bottles crack intake boots, is because of the spacing. it is supposed to be @ 5" center to center. i have a white bros. that is off by over 1/4" (not installed). The tors tops are bigger culprits of weight borne fatigue, IMHO

a larger size microtorch, or 200watt weller iron for silver solder. i squeek by with my 160 watt weller on some circut boards, when it's needed. tin the cable first

try 1 clip richer, if it's a bit colder than usuall, but 1/2 turn usually dictates a size larger pilot. it's not too much trouble to fine tune at the begining of your ride, either. just make sure it's warmed up first.

ibelieve messangers are evil, and mess with your computer too much. i refuse to use them. i would use a simpler video/webcam add-on, though. webcams are pretty much standard eqipment, nowadays. it would be a little more convenient to just click a webcam button, imo

actually, it's called Nitrous Oxide. so, are you saying that you think you look ignorant, now? :geek:

switch back to the 8's and re-jet

for now, put your shorter needle back in, and drop it all the way lean. it won't have as much power as 27.5+ longer needle, on the low end, but it should run better. or did you already get the 27.5's?

it's pinned at the top of repairs and mods one thin i just noticed from your sig- did you put the o-rings in the pipes, or leave them on the juggs when you installed?

don't get me wrong, they will give more low-mid, and top, just not as much topend as something like a vf3. i'm just saying that pipes and porting are the biggest dictators of power range. some timing advance should help out in the low-mid, aswell. only like 30 bucks for the plate, too. consult your builder on it, too

upload it to something like photobucket, and downsize it. click direct link, then cliick the insert image, here, and paste that link. 600x whatever should be a good size :thumbsup:

i second that

ooooh yah. if you unplugged the carbs, it will think it has a stuck cable, and shut off the cdi. unplug the box to disable the tors. :biggrin:

it's just a term everyone is used to, like "allen wrench" instead of hex. you must run another brand, huh?

they do have topend, but are softer for better bottom/mid. switching to midrange pipes as well will get you closer to what you want, though.

do they look like these?

is it just near idle? as mentioned, have you synced yet? are you gonna take that thing for a test run befor you tear it down again?

Chariot also suggested using blaster cages. You can port them, and run some boysen pedals, i think. Aren't the power reeds epoxy style?

boysen rad valve, or chariot performace reed cage (which uses boysen pedals) :thumbsup:

when yousaid that you unplugged the tors, did you mean the carb wires, or the little black box, next to the coil?