AKheathen

sounds like you are 1 size off to me. i would leave the pilot alone, and go up one sive from what you have. but varify with a proper plug chop

50 pilots are huge for a stock carb. you'll probably be fine with the 25, but maybe 27.5. 310-320 sounds close for the main, but you'll have to play with the needle and air screw to get it right in the low-mid. if it's the stock head, try putting some 93 octane, or 50/50. the 111 isn't really doing anything without compression and timing mods. and sync your carbs. tremendous improvement in the low-mid, not to mention idle.

just slide strait up

not to be picky, but didn't you mean dissipates heat faster, so it doesn't build up heat?

if the oil is doing good with the 200's, then i would drop to 40:1 and start with 310 or 320 mains. check your pistons too.

what is your elevation?

woah, your stockkers are 25 pilot and 200 main. what's the temp there. what fuel and mix? you'll probably go with the stock 25 pilot, but possibly 27.5, and anywhere from 280-340 on the mains, depending on the above. the local fuel at higher altitudes will actually call for a few sizes larger than sea level gas at higher altitudes

it's like a dikfore

ha ha, yah, it's alot harder to find em on icu's and fixed components, and you otherwise don't know untill you put the iron to them. there is actually a guy on here that has to smack his cdi once in a while to keep going. i've had to dig through that goo before, what a pita :shoothead:

double check your jetting

i diddn't know if it mattered either, so i put them up tward the tubes. doesn't look likes it makes a difference. :shrug:

the heat on the board can cause dry solder connections, just like a tube tv. believe it or not, the tap test is a valid test.

haha how could i argue with an avatar like that

if your static compression was 110 before, and it's 150 now, then you raised your dynamic compression a little higher than you may think. now the burn is more on the chamber than it should. ideally, you want the burn more in the chamber, allowing the incoming charge to cool the surfaces more between cubustion cycles. detonation is actually a result of surface temperatures being too high. surface burning really only happens tward the end of the burn, so burning too soon from timing, and too quick from compression, or low grade fuel can cause more heat on the surfaces. high surface heat will ignite the fuel as the compression increases. this is the detonation process which begains the burn from the surface, and accumilates heat higher with every stroke, causing the physical damage. you can combat this by igniting later in the stroke, using fuel that burns longer in th chamber, lowering the compression for a less energetic burn spread, or adding more fuel to cool faster and short circut the burn via lack of oxygen. mid life compression should be a little bit higher on static, which is ok, but when you jumpped to 150, your compression ratio jumped higher, but is giving a respectively lower reading on the test.

in my years of experience as a mechanic, I've seen jbweld fail for 3 main reasons. improper mix, lack of adhesion, and cracking. dredging and drilling the crack won't make it any worse, but will make the joint stronger. the best bet is some magnesium rod, which uses propane or mapp gas, but takes practice, and you'll need a new seal, if the crack is to it

if you dig the crack out a little bit with a dremel, or die grinder, you can get it in the crack, making a joint that is much stronger than simply putting it on the crack

Well, if you are gonna try jb weld, cut into the crack a little bit first

mine slingshots bitch bait

i highly doubt jbweld would hold up in a spot like that, even if you trenched it. i would have it welded, or brazed with mag rod.

ok, at this piont, it's likely in your harness, or switches. at your cdi, you should be reading continuity between theblack wire and the frame, engine, red/black wire, and the black wire at the coil, with the key and kill switch in run/on. no continuity between the black and black/white wire.

i would check your grounds/ smack the cdi, and x2 on the pickup gap. other than that, you'll need a meter

i have heard that. i'm gonna use a drill for m6 x1.0

it only had the 3 wires, black, black/white, and yellow, right?

load test it. use your car battery and hook one wire to (+) and the other to a 150 watt load, grounded to the battery for 1 min. you can use fog lights. don't worry, you'll only be passing about 100 watts through it. run a 35 watt load through the ignition coil. ohm it afterwords. if it passes, just coat it in automotive clear coat, available in aerosol. keep the grounds clean. if it fails, lemmie know

you want to release it. picking it up will suck you down a bit, which is fine if you wanna ride through it on the trails, but if you wanna shoot through faster. that's just my experince coming from water skipping snowmachines, but the principle is the same. 2" paddle sucks, but 1.5" paddle is much faster, and 1" overruns on tracks, so i'd imagine that you'd only want enough to bite, like those skat tracks.