AKheathen

ok, that didn't make much sense, but here you go

i notced that a boost bottle will call for ~1.5 size bigger pilot than a x-over. :shrug:

the pic looks like a really light yellow, but if it's actually closer to the color of the headlight covers, i'll take it. sorry for the late response. i try to avoid the sale section :biggrin:

did u get my pm? also can you do clutch cover insert in yellow? what about stick-ons? i have some ideas

just sayin i agree with both of you. 290+27.5 maybey even 300 with the 91, but probably not

damn it. pm me if he doesn't buy them

KEEP HER! :biggrin:

not really a secret

first see if it runs better with the needle 1 more clip, and you can go back out on the airscrews. if not, go with 35's, and put the needle back where it is.

i concur

like i said, it depends on the temp and elevation, but removing the lid, (while securing the back of the filter) will put you around 230, which includes 220 and 240. it's best to start with 240, but you may want to get 230's as well, if it's too rich on a plug chop, and you're ordering jets, instead of going to a shop/store. just so you don't have to wait.

you'll need bigger mains tp pull the lid off and something to hold the filter, or a k&n and adapter. probably start with 240's what's the temps you ride in. biggest bang for power to start with is pipes, and +4 timing, you will also have to go up a few sizes for that, too. the boost bottle isn't adding power, and the reed spacers is probably taking away a bit if they are between the reeds and juggs. all they do is help afteermarket carbs clear the clutch arm.

damn, can't even see what it looked like. i'll check tomorrw, i guess

flip it over and spray a bunch of cleanerin it, then check the bearings

look at your airbox when you ride. if it gets hit with alot of mud and water, then just leave it. if it only gets a bit, or none, then do pods. If you aren't running a lid, then jetting should be the same. 90% of the people that help on this site are alot better banshee mechanics than at least 90% of the dealership mechanics, and it's free :beer:

if you can scrounge up between $100-$200, GET SOME PIPES. petty much the biggest bolt-on power for a stokker. be sure to jet it. it will not be "ok" to do filter and exhaust mods without re-jetting. could only take 10 min. to melt a piston. you can get a nice selection of jetts for $30 off ebay. don't fall for the "power jet" gimmick. you can also get just the jets you need at the time from f.a.s.t. really quick and cheap :thumbsup:

actually, that's exactly what i run. they are the older gold series, though, and interchanging rarely works out without loosing power. i'll be the first to admit that my mix-match worked out of sheer dumb luck because i had the silencers already, and i was just curious what they would do. it is, however, the only mis- match that i would confidently recomend, but it would have to be the older fmf's

try mooving your needle 1 clip tward the blunt end too. what jetts are in there?

yes/no

oh damn, make sure that red/black wire is hooked to black/ground

we have seen instances of 3 of the same scenarios. 1- damaged stator removig flywheel 2- stator was close to going out at time of rebuild and simply moving the wires/parts pushed it over the edge 3- modifying the wiring resulted in issues directly related and not. where are you getting power? @ the red/white and green/white, or yellow and black? start by ohming @ the cdi plug- red to green & red/wht to grn/wht- ~100 & about 17 ohms black wire should get full continuity ONLY with red/black and frame/engine black/white should read nothing

looking for a cable adjuster or cap with the adjuster for a tors removal kit cap

x2.. affordable and effective the carbons for better mid-top, and the clear ones for better mid-low

how did you check the compression? 10-15 kicks holding the carbs wide open? what tester? elevation? i would get your reeds in check, clean out your carbs, and drain the tank/ clean out the petcock (there is a screen in there) put new plugs and premix in, then move to jetting :thumbsup:

ok, after reading that a few times, the answer is no- you don't need them i tear the shit out of the stockkers, and no problems. t-roller bearings have a tendency to spin on the shaft, creating worse problems if you don't keep up with them