AKheathen

:biggrin:

oh, try adjust your airscrews 1/4 turn at a time and see if it clears up first

i have 22's and deflectors $35

check your reeds/compression, then do a plug chop. it does seem to sputter at lower rpm's. was that wot when it was sputtering?

ok, now your beating it up. no need to start a new thread. you havn't even answered in your other thread

you need to unplug the tors module to keep it from cutting out. there is a little black box, about 2x2x1, with 3 wires coming out. it's under the gas tank, on the left side. simply unplug it and you should fire up. the eliminator kit just gets rid of those bulky carb tops, which will double the life of your rubber intakes, and make it 100x easier to remove and install the slides without damaging the needle

i've heard the fatties like 27.5, and what's the elevation where you ride? 4200 @ your house?

also, coke tube, choke plunger o-ring, and the cable retainers can cover the hole in the top of the slides if the are bolted on backwards. tune your airscrews richer, and check for airleaks.

who's doin the pc?

old news. you'd probably need a fuel pump, and equally pressurized carb bowl to even make it work. 550 mains, 100 pilot, and no needle in the 3rd clip from fucked :yelrotflmao:

some do use egt gauges to tue, but more than just timing. 2 reasons the ignition timing is affected so dramatically different on a 2 stroke. charge timing, and pipe timing. on your rice rocket, the charge timing is controlled directly at the the chamber, maintaining a relatively small amount of delay, which can be changed with cam timing and different porting shapes. on a 2 stroke, the piston must pump the air down to the transfers, and back up into the cylinder. for this reason, the delay increases as the rpm's increase affecting the amount of charge. so, when you are ported, and they talk about port timings, think of it as the 2stroke camshaft. the higher the ports, the longer the charge timing at higher rpm's, but lower compression ratio. there is a hell of a lot more to porting than that, but that's kind of an idea about it. the second thing is the pipe. on a 4 stroke, exhaust is pretty much just an exit strategy, even though tuning the right back pressure effects power. on a 2 stroke, the shape and length determins the timing of a return pulse to back charge into the chamber, raising the compression. higher compression will cause the charge to burn quicker. alot of spark advance at higher rpms is not only dangerous for heat reasons, but short circuts the full potential of the explosion by being at full force before the piston can even be pushed back downward. this is just my 2 cents. i'm sure someone will have a different idea about it, or part of it. :thumbsup:

are you only filling to the mark? i switched mine to dex-cool. no spitting or slushing anymore

yammaboy3 has one for 10 bucks

the hose to the radiator connects to the bottom of the tank, and the top of the tank hose doubles back to somewhere to the right of the rad hey man, u wanna hit kinkaid in about 2 weeks?

ok, the stock carb size is 26mm measured in the bore @ the back of the slide. they can be bored to 27.5, or taper bored to 28. that size is limited by the slide diamiter. anything over that, and the slides would no longer seal the bore or stay square. i have only seen one case of a factory 28mm, but that was a rare find, as, i belive, was only offered as an upgrade for 1 or 2 years, or thay came of an rz. i can't remember. normally, when you get them bored to "28" it's actually 27.5 but rounded up. like when they round up engine displacement. you're better off just saving up for the carbs you really want

payment sent on stator :thumbsup:

bump

i know you said that you have new plugs, but is that before or after the problem. do they look burnt just after trying to start it? you can loosen the carb clamps on the intake boots and turn them, so that you can tighten (by hand only) the caps, because that will cause issues. make sure that the choke tube is in place. after that, put some brand new plugs in and try to start it without touching the throttle (about 10 kicks) if it doesn't start, pull a plug and see if it has fuel on it. if so, check for spark. unplug the tors module. it's a little black box, to the left of the coil, with a 3 wire pigtail (black, black/white, and yellow/black) also, check the harness next to the airbox for melting on the exhaust. here's a diagram if you need

that may be. ideally, you want 120-130 at sea level, but the readings can be off due to elevation, method, and the tester that you're using. 5 psi or more difference, on the other hand; it's time for some work

man, your sig just keeps getting better :beer:

floods and stalls eventually? sounds like e-brake or jetting/carb

domes in decent shape? prodesign/noss style? if so, pm me, i'm lookin for those

dibbs on stator. how much shipped? 99516

uh-oh :sweat:

check your grounds, too