AKheathen

here ya go it was on page 3

sorry tate, this just came across wrong, and i was already tired and grumpy. did you know that i always get sucked into your avatar? now, i don't mean to be a dick, but humidity works the other way. higher humidity dilutes the amount of useable air, resulting in a rich condition

the cdi can handle the spikes just fine

it might overload, or run at too low of voltage, but i wouldn't want to risk the cdi going out as well as the stator. i would, however, give $10 fir it, and know someone who has a good one for $40

did you unplug the tors box next to the coil after you cut out the carb wires? i would buy the flywheel puller, lock it in 6th, hold the brake and break the nut loose to clean and inspect the stator and flywheel for damage

the reason your mains are so small is because your highly restrictive lid is installed, and, i belive, the humid climate. this is why i suggested working down from 260. if you don't need a lid, i would remove it, provided you have the bolt-on airbox adapter for the k&n. if you do need a lid, maybey open up the passage a bit for better flow. the lid is one of the biggest factors in main jet size. and nitro- no need to be a dick.

will it start with the choke warm, or without the choke cold? try the needle in different positions(start by going a clip richer) and play with different airscrew settings, but remember to adjust the airscrews when it's completely warmmed up, or they will be off. what do the plugs look like after it's been run a while?

OOH! OOH! I know this one!... it's a partially assembled motor, and it's for a banshee! :biggrin:

with the lid still installed, o highly doubt you'll be any higher than 280 below freezing. i'd start there and work down, and the +4 doesn't need more fuel :thumbsup: for me, 310 was spot-on @ -11f, no lid, but too rich @ 34. too rich isn't gonna blow your motor, but too lean can

check the o-ring on the choke plunger

choke tube in place? do the slides drop down as far as they should?

what condition are your reeds in? check your pickup gap on both sides of the flywheel. also, double check your float heights

anyone know the stock port durations and exhaust area or dimensions, off-hand?

i know what a buterfly is, just saying that a banshee carb doesn't have em. check the things i mentioned, also the o-ring on the choke plunger.

butterfly? the choke uses the vacume from idle to suck fuel out of the left carb when you open the passage. make sure the chke tube is connected. the left carb should have a brass bead on the side of the bowl- tward the reeds. the holes in the slides should be uncovered by the cable retainers.

whoa, if you're already way too big on the pilots, and turning the airscrew all the way in helped, then you probably have an airleak, or way off on the needle.

ok? that must be a typo, or you didn't notice the little (k) icon on your meter. i just went out and double checked, and got the following- each cap >6k Ohms coil secondary ~5k Ohms cap to cap ~18k Ohms caps to ground = nothing if you cannot find wire- it's just standard solid core ignition wire. an auto parts wearhouse should have a spool. haha "building"- right over my head :shoothead:

i have reeds. stock, and a set, not sure what they are anymore. ported cages, too. i'll try to get pics later. stock filter too?

i have one, too. grill removed

what? you only change the pilot to correct low throttle mixture, and you tell by the airscrews. if you inverted the pilot size to the main jetting change, it either wouldn't run in the winter, or summer. using a wire brush can leave deposits that will track the spark down the insulator. use a torch to clean plugs; that's how they naturally clean themself. octane booster doesn't do shit for octane. +0.2, at best

160 for spacers?

you go down in size to lean out. what's in there now?

ok, I'll add to this can of worms. i use torco GP-7 40:1 and that shit hangs everywhere without buildup. IMHO, the best shit out there. smells good, too in the tranny- gm auto trac II. the jurry is out on that one, but seems pretty good, so far

i gree with the pickup gap, but the rest of that crap is opinion. ok, i didn't quite understan how you got the 5.3 reading. was that the wire? primary should be .28-.38 (+ to -) secondary should be 4700-7100 (either cap to ground, or cap to cap, depending on the year) you can measure the secondary right at the coil, too. it's probably just in the jetting. do a plug chop to see where you're at

haha, i was gonna sat the best place is the parts box, next to the boost bottle. :biggrin: the best thing is to use it as a aftercooler, in front of the pipes. ideally, a pre-cooler coming out of the head would be more efficient, but it's all hot air there. either way, it's only like 1-2 degrees difference, which can't really be proven, or noticed. best thing is to make sure the radiator is clean, the coolant is in good condition, and the jetting/fuel is right for your mods