AKheathen

is the tors module removed? (not just the carb wires) what are your mods, and airbox setup?

if that's ferinheight, then i would start with 260 and 27.5, celcius, would be 250. how far north is ottowa? i'm @ red dog mine right now, above the arctic circle, and it's 40-60 ferinheight

bump. just wanna get a couple mor votes, at least :biggrin:

i used to use watter wetter at the track, but engine ice is pretty much the best. it's coolant with something similar to watter wetter already added. i personally use dexcool, because of the freezing range and lubricity. you should do a search on the oils. there are tons of threads on it

i would strongly advise against using rtv with fuel

are you running a lid? snorkel? what temp?

well, i can see that it's scotch-locked into the pickup wiring, so i could only speculate that it's a hall-effect devise for a msd effect, but if it is home made, and the guy decided to use scotch-locks, and cheap butt connectors insted of a better method, than any reliability just flew out the door. you could have seen a couple capacitors as part of the circitry, which can look like butt connectirs, or tiny batteries. mabey you can get a close-up, or just leave it off, untill you figure it out.

you measure from one cap to the other. you also have to have the other plug wire attatched to the installed spark plug when you are testing. those coils jump the spark from one plug to the other, instead of to ground.

i'm pretty sure it just makes tuning easier, but you can get the same effect via the needle, emultion tube, air jet, slidepitch, etc. i'm not saying that it's absolutely worthless, just that the naming is the same phenominom which made the resonator go from a tuning device, like the dial-a-jet, to the modern "boos bottle" bolt-on power is not actually what it is, but fucktards decide to market it that way through naming. the name is just too fucked up to take seriously, so i'll continue to point and laugh 'till shit comes out of my nose :yelrotflmao: i think i'm gonna market airscrews as....."venturri boost gyro-flow's"

if your airbox is sealed good, incuding the drain, and the snorkel is on tight, than you can go pretty deep if you keep water out of the end of the snorkel, and seal where the wires go in the stator cover(inside the sleeve) and vent tubes are run stock. but... the snorkel sucks and lid is restrictive, so i would say between 1-1.5ft or halfway up the box, depending on how fas you are going, and case/carb sealing

what is you're new jetting? ok, so your idle is about 1000-1500rpm. would you say that it's cutting ou at about twice that? (2300 rpm) if so, then check your e-brake wires. it's the wires coming off the clutch lever perch. unplug them.

oh, yah. if you run higher elevations, you can put smaller domes in, too

x2, the stator checks out. check the pichup gap, grounds, and ohm the coil. if you had yellow spark a few years ago, then either the coil was already going out, or a weak connection somwhere

you can run 21-22cc domes still with stock timing, which is still more compression than the stock head. i just dropped 20's in with 91. but that's pusing it

damn, only 6 votes

have you seen the prices? damn near have to pull a loan from the bank, just to throw a hotdog down a hallway.

hey fcuk-er! i'm 4th world. get it right! haha there just flow directors, but i just can't get over the name i wonder if they'll direct more flow to the boost bottle, emphasized by a supercharged tubonator :biggrin:

when you pull the lid off, it will lean your jetting off more than the summer/winter change. maybey it's me, but you seem to be coming off sideways. imo, if you pulled your lid and it didn't help, then you aren't lean, imo. i was gonna suggest do a leakdown test, and explain why, but, it seems like you already have it figured out. let us know how it works out, because we don't know jetting in the land of you, and are curious by nature. now go run it hard! peace :cool:

i'd like the coseup setting on yo avatar :biggrin:

crazyfastpowernow the name is priceless :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao:

it all depends on the compression ratio and timing, and stock, the banshee timing ranges up to 17*btdc. as a rule of thumb, with near stock port timings, and up to +4, 150-160 psi, is a safe reading, but not definate. that's why you look for detonation durring a plug chop, though i doubt even half check :shoothead:

well, i can see better now, it taps stait in the pickup wires, so it does something with the timing, like a rev limiter, or alarm, or... does it have any writing on it?

umm... i'd get on that rebuild asap. if they do finally "go" you'll endup spending 2-4 times as much. just my .02

you should be running 50/50 pump/race fuel, and probably start with 300, or 310, depending on the lid mod, then work down if it's rich

i'd say go up one, if the box to pods is the only change