AKheathen

start with 290 if the riding conditions are the same. once you have the mains dialed in, set your mid throttle with the needles, and adjust your airscrews for the idle to 1/8 while it's warm. if it wants less than 3/4 turnfrom seated, then go up on the pilots. i believe the carbon techs would suit your pipes better

did youj install it on the carb side?

the choke tube is a little piece of vaccume hose that goes from the back side of the choke plunger to the right carb

you're more in the mid, and should have some nice lowend. even better low-mid if you go +4 on the timing.

well.. if you know that you are rich, then i would start there

i'll have to have my wife take some pics today. i'm up working at the mine right now :miner: they are in great shape, no pitting, dings, or anything, but not brand new, so there's color on the chamber, should wash off easy, though.

as the metal expands/contracts, everything seats into place

what's the temp? which boysens? i'd imagine you to be around 270-290 and 25 or 27.5, depending. no porting?

yah, i know how you feel. i'm actually going to do a midrange port, that will work with both the pro-circuts/lowend reeds, and the fmf's/mid/top reeds, so that i can change my setup when i camp/ride in different spots. i won't be getting the most i can out of either setup, but at least i'll keep it maliable, untill i settle on one setup, or build 2 different bikes

ohhh, so that's what they do. more air=more power, right? like a turbonator?

it's what happens when you use your engine to catch bugs

it may not leak now, but it can when you're ridding, and it'll become a serous problem. can you post that pic for us to see? also, i wouldn't put the reed spacers on the jug side. just my .02, and welcome to the hq

x2, already stated that the pin holes are different on the new pistons from the old pistons. forget any spacer plates or changes in spacing. just get the LR pistons and put it back together the way it was setup before. remember to check the squish when you're done

they had extremely minimal gains on the dyno when installed on the carb side, and i've heard about 50/50 with problems on the top end when installed on the jug side. i've yet to hear anyone swear they made power anywhere. just what i hear on here; never ran them

yup, happens all the time. my densos are screwed on and then crimped from the factory. i used to do that with the ngk's, too

yes, but it will smoke, usually out of one side. a head gasket would blow sweet smelling smoke, and a base gasket would be the same as the intakes/reeds. another thong to look at, would be the choke tube, for splits and cracks. that would be like having up to a 1/4" hole leaking. it's probably a good idea to test your compression, as well. it can still run with melted pistons.

go some 22's :biggrin:

check your rod/wristpin bearings. you didn't happen to havewhat looks like a spacer plate left over, did you? 2mm thick x2 on the pistons, too

sounds like the biggest thing is an air leak. doesn't have to be a big one, and it will do that. check your intake boots for cracks, and spray some carb cleaner around the intakes while it's idling and it will change when you spray where it's leaking also, the best thing to do when it gets into a runaway like that is to kick it up to 6th, and hold the foot brake while you let the clutch out. 15 seconds can do some dmage, if it hasn't already.

it's probably too late now. you'll have to get a new head gasket and do it again. not a bad idea to have it planed, but when you put it back on and torque it down in proper sequence, run it up to full operating temp with the radiator cap off, and let it cool completely. go watch a show, or clean your mess for an hour or something. do this 2-3 times, then retorque it and put the cap back on. personally, i would do it again after you get home from your first ride, too, but that's me

you would have to have someone do the calculations to tune it for you

wish there was a better pic. i've hear there are heads that force the coolant down through the cylinders already, but not an adapter for a regular cool head.

that is why you re-torque aft3er a few heat cycles

how much you want for the 304's?

holly shit, would you look at them boost ports :ohmy: