AKheathen

i know. i was just stating that .02 is acceptable, meaning that more than that is not, i.e .2. i calibrate to 0.00 with a fresh battery, and it might flash .01 breifely, if i've been testing for about 20 min or so, but that goes back to the importance of a fresh battery. my personal meter is a fluke, and isn't really effected by the battery, though. even running backlight, and beep

you want some vf3's what side are the reed spacers on? carb or jug what size chambers are in the head? are you going for mid, or light switch arm removal? that really makes the difference on what to do, but with the t5's the different reeds will get your setup balanced for mid-top. or you can change the pipes and balance for low or mid. what pipes you have set the tempo for where you want the power, and if you mis-match, then you loose power. stock carbs really won't make much difference over the 2-1, but larger duals will help the top alot edit-> what size is your carb? that makes a difference on the above statement.

at least with a craftsman fluke clone, you can calibrate it. imo, 0.02 ohms zeroed, is acceptable for most aplications, but a good battery is essential for ohming

uhh, yah. when it's in idle, the slides act as a stop for the leaking pressure, but when you open the throttle, it alows the pulse out, basically loosing compression. how big are the chips? can you see why they chipped?

it leaks coolant. burns, making sweet, smoky exhaust, and pressurizes the coolant, making it spit out the overflow

the banshee was available with 190,200,210, and 220, but was assembled with 200's by default. can you afford this jet kit plus, you can sell what you don't need. i baught the kit for mine

ok, what we're telling you is not gonna blow your motor. what your mechanic did probably will. being too rich will only foul plugs, but being too lean will create enough heat to melt the pistons. does he do something else to the carbs when he jets them down, like plug the air jet, so that it only sucks fuel through the emultion tube? (aka needle jet) which advise was wrong, and did you follow through? i.e. plug chops, trying more than just the 290's, playing with the needles/airscrews. the first time you jet, it may seem complicated, but once you've done it, you'll realize that it's kind of easy. plus, you have however many people on this site for reference/questions. i don't believe that there is any vehicle/equipment with nearly as many people all experience with working on the same exact thing. so that guy has 5 banshees- we have over 5000, and every mod you can think of, plus the gained years of knowledge of what works, and what doesn't. that's like saying that cheveron doesn't know shit about techron, or how much to add to a 1000 gallon tank of fuel, because your friend thinks that it works better to do it diferently than 1/2 a million other stations, not realizing that he could be damaging several catalitic converters. ditch that delrio carb reference, start over, with your jetting, and follow through. i bet that you've never felt how a banshee really runs once it's tuned properly. you'd probably have the fastest banshee in your area, and that guy would ask you to tune his 5.

cotter pin pick, which is usefull for a million things, or you can just use needle nose pliers to get the cotter pins out. tape measure to make suer you set the toe-out right, pickle fork that fits the joints, hammer, and the socket/ratchet for the nuts.

float/needle problems will make you rich, untill you start using enough fuel to bring the level back down.

you're right on the money. tripple check your float adjustment, then replace the float needles. it's best to do both, because they usually go out pretty close to eachother, like headlights.

did you google it? mabey on the weisco site?

lube te cables, inside the tors boxes, too. if you leave the thumb throttle cover off, you can watch the slack in the cable when this is happening. also, check for airleaks.

are you torqing the head in the right sequence? retorqing? greasing the orings, or clean and dry. the domes should hold the oring when you install them dry

x3 that shit pisses me off

not so mugh that it's hitting a lean spot, as the fact that you will have a pre-enrichment effect by running a little rich on the needle, as long as it doesn't hurt the mixture in the mid at higher rpm's

i guess if the oil doesn't get that high while it's heating up, than it wouldn't spit. i've dumped oil out of the rear once that i know of, though.

i wouldn't put too much faith in what dealers say. they also honestly belive that yamalube is the best, don't even recognise stock exhaust mounts, and that overpriced jet kits are a performance mod, and so on. they piss me off every time i go in there for something. that's why i buy almost everything online.

locally check out some electrical shops in your area

I'm just getting around to talking about it, but i installed my ptr head last week, and really didn't like what i saw. the head went on fine, but i found out why my carbs were adjusted off from one another to sync. looks like the right cylinder ate an electrode or something, and was kind of rebuilt. .5mm over with no chamfer on both, and a couple nicks, not too bad on the exhaust port. dome a little rough. wear shows the lack of chamfer making the rings dig in. the thing that made me cringe- 1/4 to half mm rock @ tdc both sides. been running hard that way since i got it. so here's the plan- next usable size up, namura pistons (i know, alot prefer wiesco's, but I'm just a huge fan of coated pistons) and a d.i.y port job. maybe someone might volunteer to help with some duration/angles. not too wild, but i want to focus on mid-low to complement my procircuts, and reeds, but still be able to bolt on some top end reeds and old gold series pipes for that shoulder-dislocating-punch for riding on the beach and such. or, should i gust tick to the mid port? thanks, heath h.

with race fuels, agressive, synthetic oils, and way too much fuel, the color will wash off the plugs during a plug chop. i believe there was a thread 1-2 weeks ago about it. alot of smoke indicates too much oil in the mix, imo. plus, i hear the klotz leaves alot of deposit buildup. you may want to switch to 40:1 before you go leaner on the jetting. just a suggestion.

that's naot always true. you have your port specs checked out, and most of the time mild porting leaves enough to work with for the 4 mill porting. maybey your first step would be to offer a trade on unported cylinders, otherwise.

i might be lookin for a crank/piston/jug for a '05 450. got it?

hey, someone threw money at it, then someone had fun. 1200 isn't too bad, depending where you're at, and if you can fudge the frame, then it suits it's need

the fuel will be fine with the 18's

hmm... sounds like the 39's to me. try a clip both ways on the needle. what reeds/ exhaust?