AKheathen

gutting the cap is a verry good idea! i pulled mine apart before i got the billet one, and the check ball was starting to flake bad just glad i caught it before anything made it to the carbs, that i know of.

boththe pipes and reeds depend on where you want the power. they should be matched to each-other, as well. you'll actually loose power by running reeds and pipes in oposite rmp ranges.

did you torque the head in proper sequence, and remember to re-torque after a couple of heat cycles. just running it 5 min isn't good enough, you actually have to get it hot, and let it COMPLETELY cool a few times. good idea to leave the rad cap poped off during the process, as well. not saying you didn't, just gets skipped often.

OMG, they under-wrap the ignition windings?!?!?

.....*staring at avatar.....again*.......... ok. the pickup coil thing- it was bacause of the cdi. less resistance would drop the weakened voltage feeding the pickup coil, if that makes sense. if i remember correctly, the green wire is the brake, or clutch, so that you don't start it in gear without being able to stop it. maybey you can mount a momentary switch by your clutch lever to start it. i bet if you put the other pickup back on, it'll work fine.

every time i hear that, and not just banshees, first thing i think is what actually happens 90% of the time. less low end makes the top end seem better, when it's actually about the same. the other 10% is when the exhaust is tuned through sheer dumb luck, or the stock exhaust is severely restricted stock, like an asian econobox with a bolt-on muffler.

nah, the tors box must always see ground through either the carb or throttle swithes, but if you unplug the box, then it can't ground the kill wire. (black/white) on the handling, tires will make a difference, but also, rider weight, and the shock adjustments will make a difference, too. all 3 have preload adjustments(spring tension), but the rear has both rebound and compression adjustments too. most go with razor, or razor II for your aplication, so that's what i'ma suggest, but do a search, it's been posted in repairs and mods, as well as general descussion, and product reviews several times. i, personally run the kenda bear klaws, but get them in some mud and snow as well, and don't mind the mass of the tire. (~20# each) definately doesn't sound like e-brake or tors. sounds like you just need to rip things apart, and clean 'till you find the problem. all the things already mentioned, plus the flywheel/stator. on my own side note, i happen to have the seat cover and grips to match the bike in the pic exactly. ended up going a different route on my colors, and decided not to use the design. interested?

packing = lowend. drag pipes don't need it because they are all mid-top

oh, yah, i forgot to add that i use dexcool (the orange stuff) because the temps get below -30f, and it feels just like oil when ou run it between your fingers, anti-corrosive, blah blah blah, but most just run engine ice because it helps the transfer of heat as good or probably better. in the track car, i used to run watter wetter in the coolant. if you start it cold with the cap off, and it's spitting the coolant, then it's time to check for gasket leaks. if not, then it's either jetting, or a buildup of old coolant deposits in your system, preventing heat transfer to the radiator. oh, yah, x2 on the punctuation, i don't like reading more than 2x for it to make sense

imo, if it were a water pump, or head gasket, then it would start spitting alot sooner, not after 20 min. happened once to mine, when i was running green coolant@ 50/50. now i run about 60/40-70/30 dexcool, and no more problems. slightly lean jetting will cause you to gradually overheat, too.

bwahahahahahahaahah...hehe..he....sigh pee'd a little on that one goin in the sig :biggrin:

yah, i'm running the powers right now. budgeting for the pro's or another mid-top reed. gotta pay off my new 20's, and daughters' karate first. 80 hrs/week and still not enough, lol

oh, shoot, you said pro reeds, not power reeds. and i was thinking carbon fibre. guess i needed to pay closer attention to the terms. was tired as fuck. working nights right now. actually just got off about an hour ago. my bad, sorry

actually, unplugging the carb switches will make the controll box think that the slides are stuck. the switches are closed at idle only, so, unpluging them makes it think they never touch idle. what will happen, is that it will not idle, but run as long as you are touching the throttle. if it idles, and revs, but bogs under a load, then it's not the tors. if it will only rev to 2300rpm, then it's the e-brake switch on the clutch lever. regardless, the removal kit will more than pay for it'self by saving your intakes from cracking from the extra weight. plus, it makes it 100x easier to work on the carbs and such :thumbsup:

what cool head is it? do the nuts bolt flush with the top, or recessed into the head. 1 peice shell, or top/bottom shell? if it's the noss with recessed nuts, then you should use the stock studs. if it's a 2 piece, plus the domes, then there are 10 tiny o-rings that go between the top and bottom pieces around the studs to seal them up. no sealant on the threads, or you can hydro-lock the holes in the cylinders, and not get them torqued right, or worse- crack the cylinders. how long were the threads that you screwed into the head? edit--> i made a set of studs for mine out of some from the parts store, that were the right length, but not enough thread on one end. you could have got the same studs with your head that the guy threw in, and need to die the threads some more, so that they go in the cylinders as far as they should. did the studs look brand new? did he say where he got the studs?

did you unplug the tors controll box, or just the carb wires? did you clean out the carb bowls? clean/dry the air filter? dump the water out of the pipes?

i ould say re-check the float heights. if it's done it since he tuned it, then that's probably the problem. after the floats are fixed, then re-jet

yup, check the condition of your coolant, and check your jetting

hahahaha :yelrotflmao: just caught something else- a spelling bee is a competition. :yelrotflmao: i'm sure you meant something else, but now i have to give you more shit because it makes me laugh

did i miss something? not making sense. is there a deleted post or something? this thread makes no sense all of a sudden

warm it up to operating temp. turn the arscews in 1/4 at a time, waiting about 20 seconds, and blip a couple times. keep doing this untill the idle reaces peak, or has no effect. if you end up at 1/2 turn or less out from seated, then you definately need bigger pilots. try going 1 clip richer on the needle. ( twards the pointy end) see how that effects it, too.

lookin for some fairly cheap reeds, carbon fibre, or similar. mid-top or topend performance

umm... i pm'd you my e-mail afew days ago....

have you tried twisting the hose a little, then clamping it down? you'd be amazed at what a little clocking can dofor clearances. not enough to kink the hose, though

x2, those pipes usually like bigger pilots, and the boost bottle likes a little more on the pilots, too. not gonna say a lick on boost bottle function, but they are notorious for not being spaced right, and tearing the intakes, causing an airleak. a backfire like you described could be caused by that verry airleak. i would check for that first thing, so you can tune it without an airleak.