AKheathen

sounds decent. the '09's are supposedly better, but i believe there is a difference between the regular ones, and the limited, but that could've been the '08. can't remember. go to the stealership and check them out.

yup, it's possible. if his is worn out, it'll accept multiple keys. hell, some car keys might work. clean it with a lubricant, like wd-40, and try to swap keys.

any parts store's, or hardware store. i've got about 100 of em, because worn out ones really piss me off. i hate grease. hit me up if you want one

the high resistance readings are because the stator is overwrapped for higher output. the lighting side is fine, but i don't know how much rs overwraps the ignition side, if any. so, the 29.5 ohms could be a poor connection somwhere in the stator, which could lead to weak spark, and similar symptoms, but your jetting could me off, too

clutch is smoked, and it's probably lean on the bottom. kicking in halfway throug first is probably a lean hesitation. clean your carbs out, and concentrate on the pilot jets/passages.

maybey your question should be a little more specific. you just want the electronics gone? listen to bellicose. everything will run exactly the same as before, but without killing spark. i would get the kit to remove the cumbersome boxes. it will save you hours over the years, and doesn't cost more than the cost of new rubber intakes that you'll save from cracking by relieving the stress. btw. the tors controll box is located under the gas tank-left side. here's a diagram to help

maybey 28's, if you plan on doing a bit more later, but stock carbs will hang in there, and work excellent in the high-mid to low throttle range. are you running stock lights? anything over about 70 watts, will only get bright at higher rpms, and over 100, won't get bright at all.

the nodes on the outside are just steel, not magnets. the magnets inside are pretty weak, so you might not feel them with anything bigger than a paperclip on the outside. a screwdriver should stick to the inside about every inch, evenly. they are placed in there in alternating polarity, to make power. did you ever verify that you are getting good blue spark when you casually kick it over? it's starting to sound like a fuel issue

does the elevation in you area get higher, or are you pretty much near the highest point by road? running pump? i wouldn't jump strait to 260, but only go 1 at a time. leaning your needle made an improvement, so that says to head that direction, and put the needle back in the middle.

that's kind of wierd, because i was experiencing something similar with our 90 octane up here( it's the same fuel as 93 pump, but without ethanol) i got a ghost ring on the plug run, and every time i pulled the plugs, i could see the color being washed off, untill about 2 hrs mx ridding, stopping every once in a while for adjustments/ chain toss, etc. it makes me wonder what exactly puts the color there, because it's always worked on 4 stroke and snow-go's years ago, so i can only suspect the oil, or lack of etanol stopping the color in my case

check the wires from the switch to the lights. unplug the connector for the kill/light switch, and ohm the green wire to each light, then the yellow. then ohm them to ground, you should get some resistance through the bulbs when you plug the light connectors back in @ the lights.next, make 2 jumpers. stick one in the black/white wire, so you can touch to the black wire as a kill switch. next, put the other in the yellow/red wire, and jump it to the green wire for low beam, and yellow for high. if all that checks out, then you have a bad switch.

just think of it as a car that's between 100,000-200,000 miles. alot of things go one after another, which is why many tear the bike downd and go through it all at once and make it a new bike, or at least that it's not about to break. but, with normal maintenance, it should last longer than the first go-around. just think of how many times it's been put away wet, only to sit a few seasons, and get started by any means that will work, and run hard. i wouldn't immagine these things get greased 1/10th as much as they should. banshees go through hell and back, and still maintain the legend. i know wherever i go to ride, people just stop and stare. just keep at it, and remember that 4 strokes are alot more expensive to fix the same problems, and then some.

hey, i did skip responding, but the title is kinda like grabbing the mic @ pbr and yelling "steers are for queers" right before asking for a ride home

haha, good idea guys, wanna start a turbonator fund. that's 80+ dyno time. maybey even throw in some boost bottle #'s at the same time, as well as any other gimmicks. kinda like banshee mythbusters :biggrin:

might i make a suggestion? since those are obviously tie rod ball joints, it might be easier to cut up some old tie rods. for most, cutting and welding is alot easier to get done than making, or finding the sleves. just a thought. oh, and remember to preheat them before welding, if you use the cast tie rods

yah, but i'm not having great luck on fleabay. how much the joints and nick-nacks run, and where? thx.

strait premix oil works 100x better on a cool engine, sitcks around on the pistons for almost 1/2 minute running, and if that isn't the problem, you don't have to worry about shit gumming up.

thanx, the size was my next q

i thaught about using the front fender mounts, or somewhere where just the knob comes through the fender, so i can adjust them on the fly

hmm, i guess it could work kind of like a check valve to hold in the pulses that sneak past the reeds..... .... ..... ..... .... .. ........ .......BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA....*tear*.. let us know how it turns out when you install them. i don't think that guy will do a refund just because you're getting laughed at. and she'll have fun fun fun, till her daddy takes her dildo away..........

all this mention of nutswinging compells me to post.... Actually, my sqirrel is making me- no shit, he's got a knife!

between the 110, and synthetic oil, you're not really gonna get a good color on the base. that 110 is leaded, right? if not, the left plug in the bottom pic is a little concerning. go by what the dyno said, then play with the needle, and adjust your airscrews to tune the pilot. when you have the right pilot, it should reach peak rpm between 1/2-2.5 turns out. then adjust 1/4 at a time untill it runs good at, and coming off idle. remember to make the adjustments @ operating temp.

you're getting it up to operating temp before you try to plug chop. it should kind of run like that if it's not warmmed up

running 24:1 will lean your fuel abit, calling for bigger jets.

easiest way is at the cdi. put one lead on ground, and the other on the black/white wire. you should get contiuity with the kill switch in off, and none in run. now, do the red/black wire. it should have continuity with ground when the key is on, and none when the key is off. the caps are one of the first things to replace, and they are cheap.