AKheathen

well, i've been riddin mostly jim creek/knick and sutton, but i did go down to ninilchick once. how 'bout you. know of any nasty climbs in the sout central? the sutton coal mine is the best i've found so far, but always looking. actually, that's caster and camber. caster would be the angle looking from the side, and camber is the angle looking from the front. the frame rake is the angle of which the arm pivots. the more you raise the front of the arm, the easier the wheel will move back and up when it hits a bump, and "walk" over it, rather than bounce off of it. however, the angle also effects handling and steering/stability.

ok, guys, thanx for the replies. i'd pm loco, but i can't see bothering him right now. he sounds like he's pretty buisy. her's the jist- i've decided to go nuts on fabing the whole front end. when i'm done, there will be alot more travel, +2 width, x-arm setup with more rake, 2-3" more clearance on the nose, and 3 settings for either bringing the wheels foreward, back, and stock placement. still haven't decided on the right swinger length, or what i want in cast, camber, rake, etc. but i'd like to experiment with moving the fronts back for the uphill handling on the really rough stuff, rather than settling on too much rake. i gotta go sleep now, but i'll keep you posted on my progress, and still open to more suggestions/tips.

x2

ok, i'll probably get e-slapped, but i'm suggesting the kenda bear klaws. you said mud and slick stuff, which is where these will outperform the dirt tires. they are a trail tire, dirt, and mud tire, and i have run them on the snow. they are also just as cheap@59 from atvdirect. i run them from 1-4 psi and they drift, or corner excellent. the same ones in my pic. i can honestly say that these tires have performed exceptional in all terains, but still no sand/snow tire, although they work. i would also suggest realtors, but i havn't run them yet. you can probably find the stock 14t sprocket for $10 if you still wanna run a 22/12/9 like me, but get some pep back. you don't really need to be geared for 100mph, especially if you don't have the power to do so.

or, you may end up needing a 1/2 link, like me. set it all up, slack the carrier all the way and see if you can skip 1 roller or 2 on the rear sprocket. i just dropped 1 tooth on the rear, and it'll just squeak by with a new chain all the way out, but will not slack enough to take out a full link (2 rollers) just something to check before you chop a link

so, i'm confused on this one. if you put on a stock piston and stock head, you shouldn't be able to rotate it to tdc at all with a 4mill crank, and you will not get the full stroke reading. i would throw washers on the studs, and bolt something strait with holes to them, then bolt down the jugs and mount the gauge to that to measure, so that nothing moves, and you get the full stroke measurement. just make sure you get a proper measurement before you start a dispute, and drag someones' name through the mud by mistake. also, talk to the person first. could've been a shipping mixup or something that they should get the chance to make right on their own accord.

if by controll unit, you mean the little black box with the 3 wire pigtail under the gas tank, then that actually is the tors controll unit. the e-brake is a separate system from the tors. the tors goes to the carb wires and throttle wires.

well.. the tors consists of 2 independent systems. the ebrake system, which is run through the cdi, and the throttle system , which consists of 3 switches, (one in the throttle lever, and one in each carb) and a tors controll box, which activates the killswitch wire when there is a switch/wire fault, stuck slide, or stuck cable. that is why there is a big box with levers inside on both carbs and the throttle lever. the controll box must always see ground throug one switch or another, or it will kill spark

oh, yah..... sorry

-why i said using the syncro's and rpm shift. when i have the radio cranked, and earplugs driving the pos sterling to go fix a truck, i can just press the syncros and it falls in. the 18 speeds i have to pay attention and hear the engine. i just think the ratios really suck in mack trannies. the western star trucks we have also harbor a tremendous amount of geartrain mass in the sisu 6-way diffs that significantly effect timing and backlash effect. also, we have torque fuses in the driveline that prvents abuse that would damage the $45k/ea diffs.

ok, a little late on replying, just now see this...... i ride mostly jim creek and sutton. 22/12/9's in the rear. save up for some suspension, once you get comfortable with it, you will tear everything up FAST!. not long and i have bent axle, cracked swinger, stripped sprocket hub (brake hub right behind, and worn wheel hub, all on the rear axle) toasted clutch, you get the pic. i run renthal bars, which can be found cheap as $10, and have the essential brace, i have some 2" longer fox clickers for the front shocks off a polaris, but you can match some up @ sngo salvage in anchorage, or power sport stuff near biglake. for power, i picked up a ptr powerhead (same as any coolhead) wth 20cc domes, modded the timing plate to +5, boysen dual stage reeds, and pro-circuit pipes. i run 50/50 90 and 100ll avgas, off king st. in anch. but you can run 21cc domes in the hed or get the stock one milled and still run 90. i also run full skid which is essential. i think the hubs might have held better if i installed the swinger skid. also, some dg nerfs. all baught dirt cheap off this site used. durablue axle, hubs and stuff in the mail, and going to do a 4mill stroker this fall when i get more money. i'm geared for mostly mid-low power, and it performs awesome in this terrain. all i have to do is stab the throttle and it'll launch off a whoop with no effort, as opposed to t-5's where i was aqlways timing the powerband and trying hard to controll the power on the trails. jetting is a must, and so is mantenance, which is cheap, too.

but, "crazy cat 12345" said we would learn to love it can't argue with that

and i have headpipes with mid tubes

using the throttle to slack and shift is the way i normally shift 95% of the time. no need to wear on the clutch when i'm not racing or really need a speed shift climbing or in nasty terrain ridding hard. as for truck driving, its a as-per-aplication scenario. slipping the clutch will really save the sync rollers if the geartrain/engine timing/mass isn't going to match how you are wanting to shift. particularly worse with the mack/ford trannies. using the sncros' and rpm shifting on the otherhand, reduces the detremental geartrain impact and clutch wear. i'm partial to the eaton road ranger 18 speed behind a cat. i just love that split shifter (when it's not being slow and making mme miss the gear and have to use the brakesaver to speed things up )

.030 is the most before you need to rechamber. you will need to check the squish after. maybey check it first. you don't want to be below .035 or you will get piston slap.

those will be about perfect for the pipes. you will definately notice a smoother power transition and stronger mid-low. you may have to drop a size from pulling more air, or may not. just check after you install them. what jetting did you end up with on that setup? just curious, because i'm running pcp's, +5, 20cc's, boysen dual stage on 40:1 95oct. 350 mains, back to stock needle in middle, and27.5. asl 60*f

dude, TRUST ME, i know what i'm talking about. there are a couple of mistakes on stickied threads on here. they are, after all, made by people, and people make mistakes, and mix things up on accedent. especially when doing a long writup. the stator colors are backwards in the electrical troubleshooting, too. ok, the way the airscrew works, is by allowing air into the pilot jet passage, before the pilot nossle. the more you open it, the more air it lets in, leaving less fuel in the moixtur, and visa-versa. that being said, if the airscrews want to be that far to closed to make it run, then it's wanting more fuel. keep going up in pilot size untill it will want to run in the 1 to 2.5 turns from seated range on a warmed up engine. first, get your main right with a plug chop, or by feel. if you really are 2 sizes fat on the mains, it will sputter/break up a little @ wot. then get your needles right, and last, pilot and airscrews. personally, i would probably run 33's, but it really depends on where you tend to use your power. you might like those carbs better and not need what smaller carbs have to offer. you will never really know untill you get those dialed in right and see how they feel.

wait, what is your setup??? vf3's are geared for topend, and if you have a different setup, you might want something else.

did you get the pro reeds, or power reeds?

1dir racing. i've heard of 'em but no experience with the reeds. just another "better than the others" reed cage, imo.

they are similar to the chariot cages, and have been around for at least 4 years, but the fact that there is little info provided on them, like the fact that it's a low-mid geared design, leaves a bad impression. your better off just buying some chariots', knowing you have a better product built with the hart and design to make it the best possible. you should just ask him, he is a member on here. good guy with the decency and integrity to share his knwledge before ever trying to market his product to you, or doll it up.

........sync your carbs. then, adjust the airscrew to get even fire and adjust the idle screws to get even pressure. do a plug chop to check the mains.

Eh, that's backwards. tward the cylinder is a fuelscrew, and tward the filter is an airscrew. 2 strokes always use an airscrew, to the best of my knowledge.

why the hell should we compete? you are hear on the baddest site to talk about the most infamous quad legend know to man. period. *you*---->