muggzy

btw, the marshal chain is about a 1000lbs stronger than any of the others

I'm in the same boat. A lot of these drag drag and dune guys will tell you to go aluminum. They don't realize that when you get mud on your stuff it's just like grinding paste. After a bit of research, I went with the 104 link Marshall o-ring chain and 40T Sunstar steel sprocket in the rear with the hardened chromalloy 13T Moose sprocket in the front. I originally had a 41T rear but after the initial chain stretch (normal) I couldn't adjust the chain properly without a "half link". Only problem is no one makes them for o-ring chains. The only fix was to drop a tooth on the rear. It's been perfect ever since. Site sponsors should be able to get you what you need, PM me if you need help. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=131626&st=0&p=1136877&fromsearch=1entry1136877

Yeah but how many Banshees are beating celebs on "prime time" tv? The vette and Paul Sr.'s 703hp supercharged ZR1: Jody (Perf ATV) got to "keep" whichever of the two he wanted for a month and it'll air on the discovery channel

You gotta see this John K. on his Performance Motorsports built Alcohol banshee vs Paul sr. from OCC in his new 703 hp ZR1 vette, quad wins by 4 car lengths.

Full skid plates for sure! The a-arm skids with front "wings" will help protect the arms if you catch a small tree between the wheel and bumper. The Armadillo rear skid is the thickest I've found and it's holding up really well so far - no sign of bending yet and I've been using it all season in some really rock trails. The 22's will give you 1 extra inch of ground clearance (definitely helpful) but will decrease your acceleration power by 10%. If you drop your front sprocket down to a 13T you'll get most of that back. The lower tooth count will wear faster though so you can go with the Moose chromalloy steel to make up for it, still pretty inexpensive adjustment. Adding another 2 teeth to the rear will get it all back plus a little. I'm using a Marshall o-ring chain. It is the highest tensile strength I could find (~8000lbs) and it's holding up really well. I took up the slack 1st ride after installing it and put about 25hrs on it since and it's not showing any real sign of wear yet. Whatever you do, don't use aluminum sprockets. The mud acts like grinding paste and will destroy them in no time.

If you're ever up by Orange County, let me know. I'm about 40 mi NW of the city with a few decent spots.

Nice How-to Savage! This definitely ought to get stickied

Lookin hot! I'm sure you're gonna melt that Canadian snow Keep updates coming, can't wait to see how it turns out.

First-things-first. Get yourself a Clymers Manual for your Banshee. They're on ebay for like $25-$30. Best investment a newbie can ever make. That will tell you EXACTLY how to remove and disassemble your carbs. You may not be hitting your "power band" at all. It actually sounds as if your lower carb throttle ranges are screwed up. Could just be clogged or dirty pilots, badly adjusted air screws, bad reeds, who knows? Your description is very difficult to understand so try to be a little clearer on what it is you're describing - leave out any jargon and just describe what is going on and someone will try to help.

Even MORE important than the finding the correct sizes at a local chain store - you'll NEVER find the correct hardness. Much of the hardware on your ride is (8) or (10) hardness (that's what the number on the top of the bolts is all about. If the hardness doesn't match the application, you'll likely have a failure while riding. Motor City ATV sells boxes of hard ware left over from part outs. Overall, the cost is reasonable if you can get past his ridiculous shipping charges.

Hey Man, Sorry to hear about the situation. If you post the pics on photobucket.com and then paste the links inot your post hear, you wont have to downsize the photos. good luck

Hey Sootman, Check the number of teeth you've got on the front and don't go below 13T. 12T will wear extremely fast. If you're already at 13, you can add three in the back and get the same effect as dropping one in the front. The shop manual is great but I'd also get the Clymers manual. It's a little too step-by-steppish for someone with your experience in diesels but it'll help you in some detail areas. It's the best $25 I ever spent on my Banshee. Also makes a great place to keep notes on your mods

My front shock rezzis are mounted to my frame (see sig)

Yeah, I'm pretty similar in set-up (check my sig.) but you dont say what elevation your at.

Anytime, Oh! just to clarify; You wont be able to run your stock filter if you take the top off your air box, You have to drill about 6-8 1 inch holes in the top of your air box b/c the top holds the filter down.

I had the damnedest time with my lights. One seemed OK but the other was dim and flickered. Swore it was the wiring but when I finally got around to troubleshooting it, I found that the terminals inside the light itself was dirty. After I cleaned the first one, I figured what the hell and just did the other for the hell of it. Both are bright and clear and work great even through the cloudy, dirty lenses. give it a try.

You BETTER rejet if you put pipes on or you're gonna burn that engine. There's no need to do reeds just 'cause you do pipes. For free you can take the top off of your air box (also will likely need to rejet) and you can advance your timing 4 degrees. You'll have to get a good rat-tail file and elongate the holes on the stator plate or get an offset (+4) woodruff key (it's almost free ) The airbox may not have too much impact without the pipes but it ought to give you a noticable improvement. Welcome to BHQ and good luck with the new ride!

Get high quality synthetic or synthetic blend 2-cycle oil. Not the shit off of Walmart's shelves. Until you know what you're working with, be safe and mix your oil at 32:1 (4ozs/gal)

1) What type of aftermarket exhaust do you have? Pro Circuit Platinums 2) What type of airfilter do you have? K&N Stock rplacement 3) Are you a)running a stock airbox with lid stock airbox with NO lid c) Stock airbox with vents d) no airbox at all. 4) What is your elevation? (If you don't know, go here: http://www.topozone.com ) 900ft 5) What size pilot jets are you using? 27.5 6) What size main jets are you using? 280 summer/300 winter; Needle clip on pos. 4 (1 richer than Center) 7) What temperature is your Banshee jetted for? 60 - 100 summer/30 - 60 winter 8) Do you have a port job? Yes, don't know any details 9) What kind of carbs? Stock Mikuni VM26SS 10) What size carbs? 26mm

You can make your quad street legal in any state so long as you meet all of that state's requirements. Usually lights brakes muffler and horn and not much more. All you have to do is follow the requirements for the correct class of home made vehicle. pass inspection and take that to the DMV and register it. Then when they try to pull you over you can turn off the hwy into the dunes or trail Cool Huh?

CT, Not sure what you mean. Is this something that was stock and is missing or are you looking for something else? There are tabs on the stock (and my aftermarket) grab bar but I don't know of anything else.

You're not gonna get that if everything is bent up or rusted as you say.

If you're talking about the crank case - that's the transmission (lower end). For your gas/oil mix, make sure you use a high quality 2-cycle oil that is synthetic or synthetic blend and 4oz/gal will give you a safe, 32:1 mix.

x2 (with patience)

I had some kind of after market skid plate on my swingarm and bent it up pretty good. I replaced it with an Armadillo skid plate that is also aluminum but thicker than the first and it's been taking a pounding *really* well. I'm seriously considering Armadillo to replace the rest of my full skids.