firebanshee

Won't your local yamaha or bike shop have some new nuts? mine does.

2 into 1 carb link on ebay Here is a link.

JB weld does work good if mixed right and prepped right as with any of the other products.

He is decking the cylinder and and cutting the domes and mild port work.I am having him put on the 39 PWK. It was 56 on the torque.

I think he said 94hp and 63 torque, he said my carbs are holding me back alot,i cant wait till it's done to see the difference.My bike won't be at the coast for awhile either.I want to take it to albany also.

I also do alot of porting and expiermenting,but on my own stuff, and i also have redline racing do some work for me.I like to do it for a hobby.Are you going to raise the transfers or the exhaust ports.Are you going for a dune drag port or trail riding.I have had good luck with raising the exhaust up to 99mil if you measure from the bottom of the cylinder up to the top of the exhaust port,by the bottom i mean were the liner hangs out of the bottom of the cylinder the farthest part that sticks out,its about 2mils that you raise the port and you don't want the exhaust port ceiling to go staight across you want some arc to it and i also widen it out up at the top like an upside down trapizoid.I also like to raise the transfer ports about 2mils. and add aux. boost ports. This has worked good for me with a stock stroke and stock cylinders for an agressive dune port and some racing at the dunes.This has worked well for me and if any one tries it it's at there own risk.I AM NOT a professional cylinder porter or a 2 stroke motor builder. I have done this to MY bikes only and would not even cosider porting any one elses.I know there is alot about porting that i don't know.When i get serious about going fast i send it to the pros. Good luck and have fun doing it.You cant go wrong by doing a good clean up port.

I haven't had a problem yet, i have done this with my gas motors and my alky motors,i also use it to fill in low spots in the intake side of cylinders i never use it on the exhaust side,i am not saying it CANT come off. I am by no means trying to imply that i am some motor builder i just do my owm stuff to my own bikes i am a truck and auto mechanic by trade but just work on my bikes for a hobby.

I think your are making a good choice having him do your bike since he is out on the dunes alot and will help you tune your bike if you need help. Hopefully see you out there some time you will have to post some pics of your bike when you are done so i know what to look for. I might be going the lectron route as well.

I am not going to lie there is a chance of the filler coming out,but you can lesson that chance if you prepare the surface properly and there might be some different types of epoxys out there that could work better i used JB weld.I have not had any come off yet on my motors,i drilled little tiny holes on the surface were the filler was going but not all the way through i just made a bunch of little divets for the filler to adhere to,and made sure the surface is really clean. I probably wouldnt do this to a motor that i didnt plan on having apart once in awhile,or a play bike that i wasnt trying to hot rod. Looks like you did a good job porting your cases :cool:

You put the JB weld in the blue area at an angle this makes the area less in the case which forces the air fuel mixture up through the transfers better when the piston comes down and it also directs the air fuel charge up to the bottom of the tranfers on the cylinders better.You do this on both sides and you have to be sure and leave the holes for the oil to the bearings.

I also like to fill in the area were it is ported out with JB weld at a angle and stuff the cases,you have to make sure that you keep the oil holes open.

I like to run 22inch tall tires in the dunes and just gear down a little this will give you better ground clearance and keep your rear sproket out of the sand.I like staight paddel haulers they hook alot better in the soft sand.

Did you have the slides out?did you get them back in the right carb?

Sonds to me like you have an air leak,like a split carb boot or something,the air is being pulled in through the leak instead of through the carbs so it is not pulling in any fuel .Is the little choke tube on that hooks between the carbs?The idle is adjusted by the big flat bladed screw on top the tors.

They should, all you need are some v blocks and a dial indicator.

look at the link above on my last post that says welded crank it shows it just dont let the weld interfere with the bearing. you need to make sure it is still true when you are done.

WELDED CRANK click on the other pic it shows the weld.

You weld it at the rod crank pin were you can see the end of it on both ends of the pin so that pressed together fit will not separate. Most people like to use a TIG but i have used a MIG before.

There is typically no coolant at the base gasket it could be trickling down from the head the only way i could think that you have a leak at the base gasket is the big rubber plug that goes in the bottom of the cylinder could be leaking or a crack some where.The crank case just has air fuel mixture.

Thats funny i remember my dad bitching to me about his tools and now i am doing the same thing :biggrin:

I leave all my work tools at work and just a have tools at home it makes it easier for me.And i dont want my kids to loose them.

If you are just going to use them at home i wouldn't buy snap on,i have a snap on air rachet that cost 478$ i dont think thats practical for home use i turn wrenches for a living so i buy alot of snap on but at home i use Ingrasol Rand and and some harbor freight tools.Just my thoughts

Thanks :biggrin:

I would be scared to use one, it might make me wreck my bike :biggrin: