richybanshee

Jetting is checked at the base of the ring and not in the porceling color at the top. 270 does not sound too bad. Try main jets 280 - 300. Before doing a wide open throttle run put bigger mains. Trust me, you do not want to know how it feels to burn a piston a have to lend some $$$ for a new one. If your shee fills heavy at lower rpms close the air srews all the way in to see if the problem is not as bad. If this works, try putting some 27.5 or 30 pilot jets. Stock pilot jets are 25. Leave the needle jet alone in the third clip position. This should be a good start.

For the temp you mention I think you may need to go up to at least 300 mains. Another thing, How high form sea level do you ride? This is also a factor.

Blueing comes from heat... that is a fact. I'm not sure if when jetted correctly pipes will turn blue, but if they do the blueing may not be so intense or very wide. Go up on the mains 2 sizes and see how it runs, then check the sparkplugs at the base of the rings. If you do a lot of wide open throttle riding then is better to be a little rich on the mains, not too much though or performance will suffer. But you will suffer more if engine seizes. My friend had T5's and never got does blue spots on the pipes, but he rode with airbox lid and 280 mains. SEE YAHH !!!!

Going back to the issue of the dyno: Probably the dyno software sucks, but both pipes where tested in the same dyno so there is no difference. What is bad for one set of pipes i s bad for the other. The one thing I would like to see is the whole description of the process taken to test the pipes and the whole specifications of the bike with both pipes, jetting and everything else included so that by looking at the different dyno sheets we can more presicely compare which one is better for the setup you have. Scientist just do not test once and then make conclusions, they do it hundreds of times. SEE YAAA!!!!! What I do not like about Rockets is that changing sparkplugs seems almost impossible if pipes are hot.

I had FMF Gnarlies on my 1996 shee. This pipes produce a lot of bottom end power, top end is almost the same as stock. For woods riding they will work excellent. I think that the difference between Gnarlies and Fatties is just a shift in the power curve. Gnarlies make the power sooner, but also sign off sooner. This pipes are not 100% chrome, like the finish in Toomey pipes, CPI's or others. FMF Gnarlies, timming advanced +4 degrees and CoolHead with 21cc domes (for 1,000 feet or lower) is a nice combination with a lot of bottom end power. If you test both of this pipes, tell us what you foundout. I have heard people swear that PT pipes make more low end power. Want to know if that is true.

Keep us up to date with the tests.

Advacing the timming and more compression makes the shee run hotter. Also what actually cools the piston is not exactly the water around the jugs, is the fuel. I do not know if you have notice but when a shee runs lean it overheats and coolant starts liking and creates ugly spots in the pipes. You can smell it also. The cure is go bigger on the mains before you melt the crown of the piston. Happened to me a few years ago, so I learned jetting the hard way. JEJE!!! Really, I did a lot of reading and troubleshooting before understanding jetting issues. To be safe, I say go to a 340 main and start down sizing if needed. After your are done with the mains check the jet needle. Finally the pilots, maybe up to 30's. Just START EXPERIMENTING this is how you will learn. Many of us can give you an idea, but you are the lead scientist. GOOD LUCK

Good Argument canyncarvr: you have convice me. So this is the same noise we listen when driving in our cars with the new stereo system and a ground on the amplifier is not connected properly or when patch cables run parallel to the live amp wire.

right know I have 300 main jets and clip back to 3rd position everything else is stock. ( will put k&N filetr soon, when stock filter gets dirty) My bike runs great, does not bug and keeps pulling on the top end. I checked the base of the plugs and ithey had that brown chocolate ring around it. Note: just in case I do not base my jetting in porceling color. I check the base of the ring, like in the plug chop method. In my old shee I use to run FMF Gnarly pipes 310 mains, K&N filter, no airbox lid. The whole idea behind my jetting was to be save when drag racing with my buddies. I notice better top end. Thanks for all does opinions... KEEP IT UP

In my 1996 shee I used B8ES Spark Plugs, while my new 2005 shee has BR8ES. Any one knows what is the difference or purpose of the new plugs? Thanks

Nothing is elementary, or obvious, ignorance is a bad thing. The first time I tried to jet my shee I went through hell. Then I did a lot of reading to at least try to understand where to start. After experimenting for a while I did it. Now I'm confident enough to let you all know what I did so that others out there may have that jump start on the topic of jetting. For an all stock shee and ridding between sea level and a 1,000 feet at 75-95 degrees Farenheit temperature I recommend: 1. Remove snorckle from air box lid 2. put 260 main jets keep airbox lid or (between 280-300 main jets without the air box lid) Shee will run better. You can do the plug shop method. Test it, if it works good, if it does not keep experimenting until you get it right. Note: K&N filter recommended and if running without the air box lid put a screw through the box to hold it down. This is a great place to START for all you ROOKIES. Is good to know this post is controversial.

There are a lot of factors concerning jetting like: humidity, air temperature, altitude. Remember I took off the airbox lid and when I tested the jetting temp was like 75. Probably in hotter temperatures I may need to go down to a 280 main. Jetting is not a fixed variable. I just did some experimenting and it workout good. My friend hast toomey T5 pipes with 280 main jets and airbox lid on. If you take the air box lid off it just does not run as good (lean jetting), the pipes start to get blue because of the heat created. From what you guys say, jetting is just a bag full of mixed candies, some sweet, some bitter.

There is always a first time for everything. Not a good month for you or the Company. Thanks for charing your experince.

Probably clamp ons let you get a little more HP because you are feeding the motor with more air. Not a good choice if water is involve. In my opinion if you are trail ridding do not take the airbox off. Else if you only drag race or ride in sunny, shinny, beautifull, waterless conditions, then go for it. more air = more fuel = more power Defenetly jetting is involve, do not know how big in the mains.

Probably you can do more porting on the shee before spending the $550 on new pipes. I f you plan on going big and gaining more hop at top end, then maybe it could be a good idea to switch to better flowing pipes, like CPI or Rockets, or Shearer or any other proven brand. At one time I saw an article on DirtWheels: Banshee had 1. K&N filter 2. T5's 3. Port job and head mod (155 psi) by MissionYamaha 4. Running VP fuel 5. VForce Delta Reed cages HP = 59 Torque = Do not remember

Loco ... What happened with does dyno runs you were going to do between Rockets, CPI's and T5's ? I will like to see what you found out.

Ducman has a very good point, stock filter sucks and holds you some needed power. Also do not .... I repeat: DO NOT leave your jetting stock. The only reason to leave your jetting stock is that you may want to melt the pistons on purpouse. Maybe I'm just a little . Really, probably you would not burn a piston if you just restrict air flow, but then you will not gain a lot of power and the shee will not run as you wanted it to. At least put 260 mains and take the snorkle off. If you leave the pilot (slow jet) stock size maybe you will not have problems during the somer but in the winter starting your shee could be a pain in the ass. GOOD LUCK

I do not think jet kits use different measures for the main jets. I ride a 2005 banshee with 300 mains, jet needle in the fourth notch, no air box lid, everything else is stock. My bike also runs great. I live like a 1000 feet from sea level. What I think is that all depends in "too many factors", like: every shee is not the same, air density, fuel mixture, pipes, compression, timming, etc. What mostly change when modifying a banshee, concerning jetting, are the main and needle jet. Most of the time you can leave the 25 jet alone or maybe go bigger with a 30. One day you should try 310 mains, no airbox lid to see how it runs. More air, more fuel, more gases out the engine = MORE POWER

Banshees like to rev... FMF Fatties are great allaround pipe. Do not know if you will have more torque than a Polaris but defenetly you will gain more power and torque over a broader rpm range than the stockers give you. Another alternative are ProCircuit pipes. I have riden shees with this pipes and they pull hard from bottom to mid and good all the way to the top. I think Fatties and Procircuits are pretty much even. Their biggest gains are bottom to Mid but top is way better than stock and enough to be competitive against that 440 Z. Probably the suzuki will have more torque down low, but you have the advantage in a drag race since top end power is what you need and 2 strokes move a lot more air than 4strokes.

You do not need anything else. I recommend getting a K&N Filter since you will be able to re-use it later on. Remember, air filters get dirty and the stock one can not be cleaned enough. If you put the K&N filter: 1. Get a pair of 280 main jets and put them on. 2. Remember to take the snorkle off the box lid. 3. Install the pipes and take it for a spin. Do the plug chop method You shoul be able to notice if there is a problem with the jetting if it bugs heavely at FULL THROTTLE. This means you should probably go one or two sizes down.(260 or 270 jets) Else, if the shee does not keep pulling at FULL THROTTLE and the power feels flat then go up in sizes until you reach a point where it runs great. Is better to go big in the mains and then down size than putting small mains and burning your pistons. If you run the stock fiilter try 260 main jetts. Do the plug chop method. [/b]Note: Do not know your altitude but this is a good starting point.

From my personal experience I say, for low end power go with FMF Gnarlies, timming plate set to +3 degrees, CoolHead with 21 cc domes if you live 1000 feet or lower and put a 13 tooth front sprocket. I guarantee, you will be pulling wheelis even in third gear. The only thing I did not have from the list above, in my banshee, was the coolhead. Putting a coolhead with 21cc domes will boost the compression and give you more low end power. Boostting compression will make the banshee run hotter but since the coolhead has more volume of water it compensates and what happens is that you run a few degrees cooler than with a stock head. ABOUT THE FLYWHEEL From: How to Choose a Powerband by Eric Gorr

Reliability and Performance: 1. K&N filter with air filter adapter (any brand) 2. a. Pipes for low end to mid power => Paul Turner or FMF Gnarlys b. Low end with better midrange hit => FMF Fatty, FMF SST, Procircuit, some say DMC or Toomey TR6 c. mid to top end => Toomey T5 Any of this pipes is a lot better than stock. With just this two mods you will be doing okay. Reliability will not be a problem. Maybe the most difficult thing is to choose the brand of pipe you think is best for the type of ridding you will do. Other mods you can do: 3. Timming plate set to +3 degrees 4. Cool Head with 21 cc domes (This will shift the power curve for more low end power by adding compression)

Check if fuel or carbs are not dirty. Drain All fuel, put new fuel and sparkplugs with cleaned filter. I think that when banshees have low compression they just do not have that strong, arm ripping low end power but they will still run okay not as crappy as you mentioned. Also check if sparkplug coil is working properly, it may be possible that the spark is not so intense as it is supposed to be.

I just bought a new banshee. Since the moment I rode it I felt it was not as fast as I had expected. This is my second banshee, so I know a few things on how to make it run better. Without buying anything expensive I have made my shee faster. Banshees come with 190, 200, 210 main jets ... depending on where you buy the bike. In Puerto Rico all banshees come stock with 200 main jets installed, also in the dealer they gave me 190 and 240 main jets. This is what I did to make it faster: 1. Put on 300 main jets 2. took off the whole airbox lid 3. increased the flow of fuel at half throttle by moving the clip on the jet needle to the 4th notch (stock is 3rd notch) My hometown is like 1000 feet from sea level and the temp is 75-90 F most of the year. You may be prompt to believe that I 'm putting too much fuel into the motor, well, my bike runs great. Remember that I took off the airbox lid and there is a great amount of air going into the engine. I recommend holding the stock filter assembly with a screw through the box. Later on you can just swap to a K&N filter with a filter adapter. If you do not want to take the airbox lid off, just take off the snorkle, then put 260 main jets and leave everything else stock. My 2 cents....

I say: Toomeys Also they are better looking and proven pipes for stock or ported motors. Do not know too much about Trinity Pipes. The one thing I heard is that Trinity pipes have almost an identical power curve compared to the T5's. You may never be certain about the performance of a pipe unless you try it your self.