richybanshee

Since you already have it, just put it on. Do not spect HP gains or better throttle response, the stock tube makes the same difference. You do need to have some kind of, let just say, passage way between both carbs for better throttle response at low rpms 4,000-5,000 rpm. Toomey racing has some info on the theme. Yamha engineers put it for some reason, so do not take it off.

pantie hoes ... sounds sexy

FIRST BANSHEE Toomey told me that. Also, the people from Patriot Racing said that they did a lot of testing and TR6 did not performe so good with ported motors. Bolt on mods should be okay. This is why I bought CPI's ... thinking for future mods. For a stock shee and bolt-ons, probably TR6's are the best HP gainers. They also look awesome and very well constructed, sound is the best.

Since you already have the fatties... if you ride mostly trails and just do some casual drag racing then stick with does fatties. else, you mostly drag race and some times go trail riding then go with CPI's or Rockets. For the moment I'm using CPI's in a stock shee and love them. I ride mostly trails, but be aware, fatties have more low end power and hit than CPI's. Top end is okay. With the CPI's top end is way better, buttom end power is good for recreational trail riding, not competition. Both pipes are loud. One more thing ... from what I have heard, CPI's respond better to mid to top end porting specs and modifications.

What about if you take the airfilter off and just put the K&N lid. Should not this increase airflow and filter the air? Why use 2 filters? Else, just used the K&N filter with outware that goes in the stock location and no lid or use a foam uni filter ... for better filtration and almost the same air flow.

I do not think the intake is going to give you more power ... but who knows. The boostbottle is not going to give you more power either. FadedDreams Why not try to advance the timming and add compression? This will give you more low and midrange power for almost the same $$$ you will spend on an intake system.

Every upgare since the first toomey pipe is more powerfull than the other. TR6 are more powerfull than T5's. but TR6 seem to like better stock porting configuration. T5's are proven to be good for stock porting specs and better than TR6's for custom porting. If you only want to get a toomey pipe, go with the T5's. Else, CPI's will work better with porting and some say Rockets also. I saw a dyno chart from Toomey. Their TR6's vs T5's , in stock engine. The TR6's were by far the better pipe. Even other brands were better than the T5's in a stock engine. (who knows, probably a marketing stunt)

If you do not have problems at 3/4 throttle position, I do not see why you should change the mains. If problems are from 1/8 to 3/4 then check the needle and pilot jet. if problems are 1/8 to 1/4, then check pilot jets. I never have used PT mids so I can not compare jetting, every pipe needs different jeeting. Probably PT mids like it rich down low. Make sure the shee is really boging and not hesitating 1/8 to 3/4.

Go for it, midrange hit will be greater. Stick to +3 or +4 degrees with 93 octane fuel.

I have a spared stator plate. I was thinking of modifying it to advance the timming to at least 3 degrees. I need some pics to see how modifications are done to the stock plate. Thanks for your help, guys

The hose will not melt. I had the same problem with my Gnarlies. The only thing is that the pipe will get an ugly stain where the hose touches it. For the temps you mention, if at sea level or up to 1,500 feet, no airbox lid, a 280-300 main should be near enough. Keep the 30 pilots, Gnarlies like it rich down low and keep tthe needle in the stock 3rd clip position.

Remember: Wave propagation, and air flow, between different pipes is ....different. So jetting for FMF pipes will not be equal to jetting for, let's say, T5's. I had FMF pipes so: Depending on temps, main jets should be around 270 -300. Needle may need to be adjusted depending on the main jet size. pilot jet should be around 25-30. Try the 280 main, needle in the 3rd clip position and 30 pilot jets. Down size on the mains if needed. If you take off the airbox lid completely I suggest 300 mains.

Maxxis tires seem to work on muddy conditions: 1. 22 inch All Track 2. 22 inch Sur Track This tires are a little heavie, but when new the sure have great grip for the mud.

Just put the T5's they should fit with the T3's stingers and silencers. Then make a test run and see how the shee feels, go easy the first time. Then make the WOT run in 5 or 6 gear for 3-5 seconds... you know the procedure. Chek the main jets, then the needle and finally the pilot. Look at this stock needle diagram:

What I have done, and seems to work pretty good is: take my lazy ass off the bike and push it...

I do not see why not ... so put on the T5's and give it a test run.

You should check if at mid throttle position the shee is not running lean. Since you moved the needle to the 2nd clip position and with the 25 stock pilots, the atv will not idle so good. The problem can be fixed turning in the airscrews or putting bigger pilot jets, but still you can be running lean at mid throttle position. So check if with the needle at the 3rd notch the banshee runs better at half throttle and 1/8-1/4 throttle response is improved keeping the 25 pilots.

All I can say is that RDZ pipes look very similar to Shearer pipes, Vito's FatBastards, Eddie Sanders pipes (ESR)... so some one is making the same pipe with different stamping. I pikedup this from the RDZ website:

Do not know about the 2 into one pipe. I really do not like how they look. I was the proud owner of the FMF Ganrly pipes and this pipes have excellent bottom to mid end power, top end is almost the same as stock. Wheelies were no problem even in third, with a +3 timing plate even better. You can not go wrong with the Gnarlies. SST's are great but Gnarlies are better for bottom end power. FMF puts their pipes like this: Gnarly -> bottom to mid power Fattie -> better all around pipe SST -> a little stronger than the fatties, wider power band with little horse power gains over fatties

Do the test with new sparkplugs. With so many changes does sparkplugs most have a lot carbon build in. Like many people have said, with the mods you mentioned main jet should be between 280-320 and needle 3rd-4rth notch. You can get away with the 25 pilot if temps are not so cold.

Alba sells them and Vito. www.albaaction.com www.vitosperformance.net

We need more info, but here is what I had with stock shee no airbox lid, temp 75 farenheight, 1000 feet from sea level: 280 mains, needle in stock 3rd clip position, 25 stock pilots, airscrews 1 1/2 turns from seated. You have VF2 and no air box so probably you can try 280 mains if conditions are similar to what I listed. It may be a good strating point.

I say ... try 320 mains,again, with needle in the 4rth position and 30 pilot jets. Questions you should ask your self and answer: 1. How does it run at full throttle with the 320 mains? 2. How does it run at half throttle with 320 mains and needle in the 4rth clip position? 3. How does it run 1/8 to 1/4 throttle position with 30 pilots, air screws 1 1/2 turn from seated? Remember: You need to dial in, first, the main jets because they will take an effect on the other jets. Then dial in the needle and finally the pilots. Make the testing with new sparkplugs and do not base jetting on porceling color, look at the base of the ring. If you can not see, then cut the sparkplug.

Take airbox lid off and put 280 -300 mains, needle in the 4rth clip position, stock pilot jet like 1 turn out from seated. With lid on and no snorkle: 260 mains

Good thing you guys liked the review. Hopefully we will see more reviews of all banshee aftermarket parts.