richybanshee

I'm lloking forward to see the dyno sheets of the testing locogato11283 is going to do. It would be very helpfull if you can put some kind of description of the mods you have, jetting, altitude of the test, temp and the brand of the dyno machine in which you are testing, pipes tested. Everything here counts. Check if you can test T5's also. T5's, CPI's, Rocket's ... Let the Chanllenge beguin

The first mod I recommend is K&N filter with an air filter adapter so that you can take off the airbox lid. Even with stock pipes if jetted correctly you may fill some difference in power. Next decide what brand of pipes you want for the type of riding you are going to do, also you can consider looks. My choices are: Bottom end power to Mid: Paul Turrner, FMF Fatties or Gnarlys or SST's, Procircuit, TR6's Mid to top end (stock shee): Toomey T5's , maybe CPI I have to say T5's look great, sound great and if one day you think of porting, this pipes will still performe great. My personal combination: K&N filter with adapter $100 aprox. T5 pipes (chrome) $500 aprox. Timming plate (to set +4 degrees) $ 100 aprox. Right now this sets you up for $700 aprox. You still have $150 to spend in a good Helment, trust me you will need it .

That sounds good to me ... try it and let us know what you found out. I recommend you do the plug chop method. If you do not know how to do the plug chop method, well, go to http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html this is BenBBs page. I think that if you are 400 feet over sea level without airbox lid you are very close to the correct jetting. Keep in mind that every machine is different and you may need to got up or down a few sizes.

New FMF Fatties $450 aprox. Used FMF Fatties $150 aprox. Total Saved $300 aprox. I say Go for it. It is a big improvement over stock. Better Bottom, Mid and Top end over stock. I used to run FMF Gnarlys, at sea level, 310 main jet, K&N filter, no airbox lid, 15/41 gearing, timing advanced +3 degrees. Over all performance was improved a lot. I heard CPI pipes are good for top end power and that they are better for ported motors. I think this pipes, even though they are not made for low end power, may be able to performe better if we shift the power band closer to the lower rpms. How, well adding more compression and advancing a little the timming. Any one thinks this may work in a stock shee?

If you want to port the cylinders talk to the builder... after that ... talk to the builder ... then talk to the builder ... finally, talk to the builder. One quetion is not enough ... trust me. Porting the cylinders means changing the overall performance of your machine. One of the things you need to consider is what pipes work better or acceptably for the type of porting the builder you choose is going to do. For example: Lets say you take the cylinders to some builder, he ports them. Then you install everything including the FMF pipes. Maybe for the type of porting done this pipes do not work as great or maybe they do work awesome. Do you see the point? I do not see the need to change carbs if they are not damaged at all. Else, if you are looking for more power at the top end ( bigger carbs are better for this). Woods porting sounds like more low or bottom end power. As I said before, talk to the builder. Write down all of your questions an do not hesitate to ask anything. My 2 cents... and ... GOOD LUCK

My 2 cents... Check this info on reeds at http://www.wickedatv.com/duportal30/home/d...hannel=Products

Go to www.toomey.com there you will find dyno sheets of the new TR6 compared to PT, FMF SST's, CPI, Pro Circuit. The bike is supposed to be stock. Do not believe too much in the numbers, just compare the hp curve and peak, also the rpms were they make the power. Hope this can help.

Thanks Minkia38 ... Hey Minkia ... looking at the dyno sheet it seems that there is a rise of power a peak at 10, 300 rpm aprox. Do you have any comments on that? Also, were you the one that design the pipe or only sell them?

Thanks for your replies guys. Probably I may go with the T5's since they are a proven pipe, they look great, sound is good and the price is cheaper. I reed an article that DirtWheels did on a mod that was done by the people from MissionYamaha in California. All mods were: porting and head mod (155 psi) by MissionYamaha VForce reed cage Pro X pistons (stock size) T5 pipes The bike was dyno tested and made 59 HP with VP fuel (the porting was supposed to be a reliable one) Finally, I emailed PatriotRacing and they told they had tested the TR6 with the type of porting they do and it seems that T5's performe better. Once again, Thanks

Go with VForce reed cage aprox. $220 aprox. HP gain 2 Get a Timing Plate ($100 aprox) and advance it to +3 if running pump gas (also depending on compression) remember that if you have a lot of compression and advance the timing Too much your engine will run hotter and piston failure will be possible.

master chief, From the posts here I can see that you do not have a clue about banshees, do not get it the wrong way. There was a time I did not know anything about this machines. I think you could be better with a 4 stroke, maybe the new YFZ 450 or the Honda 450R. This are great machines with more low end power than the banshee, even more HP stock. For trail wirtting banshees are not so good, because they tend to make power at higher rpms and do not have a lot of torque down low. My experience: I use to own a 1996 Banshee with FMF Gnarly pipes, timing +3 degrees, 13 tooth front sprocket, K&N filter no airbox lid. I did my riding mostly in trails an through mud, not so deep mud, and it was great. Felt fast, great acceleration and wheeles in third were no problem. Because of the settings I had I could drag race in short distances, gaining like a little more than a bike lenght on other banshees with similar mods and pipes of any kind. If I wanted to do some more serious drag racing I just needed to change the front sproket to a 15 tooth. With this settings I could not get into too serious drags because other bikes, ported, with cpi's or even T5's just smoked me, but not by much. What I'm trying to say is that maybe right know you are just thinking of trail riding, which is good, but some time you may get the bug to drag race with your buddys. For this the bashee is great. Pros of banshee: 1. great acceleration and drag race characteristics 2. less moving parts since it is a 2-stroke 3. revs higher than most 4-strokes 4. easy to modify and make power 5. a lot of aftermarket parts available Cons: 1. not so eficient burning fuel 2. need doble of almost everything (pipes, carbs, oil + gas) more expensive maintanace 3. since is a 2-strokes pollution is greater 3. not a lot of low end power and torque 4. tends to overheat more easely I just bought a new banshee on Wednesday, probably will put Toomey pipes on it. Hope this can help you.

I want to know your opinion on the new TR6 pipes? How about the power compared to the T5's? Have you drag race your friend with the T5's on his banshee? I personally like how the TR6 look. I found a review of the pipes at this site: http://www.roostingthedunes.com/toomey_review.htm but I need more feedback, info and info. If you are wondering why all this questions, well, I just bought a new banshee. The white a red one. The guys from Toomey tell me that the T5's respond better to mods like porting and head mod. The tr6's make more horsepower for the stock machine. if I'm going to spend some $$$$ on my shee I want to know what works and what does not. I'm not new to banshees. I was the proud owner of a 1996 shee that I sold on March of 2004. Yesterday I bought my new 2005 shee. Could not leave without it.

In my honest opinion. With a new machine would not do things like porting, head shaving, or changing carbs, at least for a few years. What you can do is: 1. K&N Filter 2. Put a set of pipes like: FMF Gnarlys, FMF Fatty, ProCircuit or DMC's 3. Put a timing plate or a degree key: Prodesign (plate), Trinity (plate) or a Vito's Degree key With this mods you will be doing okay. I had FMF Gnarly pipes with a ProDesign timing Plate set to +3 degrees with 92 octane fuel. The basnhee had a lot more low end power, you could feel the difference. My friend has Procircuit pipes and his banshee has more top end power with great low end power. If you want more bottom end power, put a CoolHead: Prodesign, Trinity, Ohton or any other brand with domes apropiate for your altitude. I think they are almost the same. Do not go over 160 psi of compression if you want to still run on pump gas. This way you do not damage your original head shaving it, just in case you want to do anything else. There are other good brands out there, this are just my preference for what you want. Banshees are not made for extreme mud conditions. check from time to time that theradiator does not get filled with mud or you will have big problems.

I'm interested in knowing if some one has dynoed their rocket pipes in a stock banshee. How much power they make compared to stocks and at what rpm? How much torque and at what rpm? How loud they are, in db please? Is this a top end pipe? If you had to compare the performance of this pipe with another, to describe it, which one will it be? (Example: My Rockets feel like fmf Gnarlys in the bottomend but pull like CPI's in the top end and rev more) Thanks for your help guys.

I'm surpriced at how fat the Rocket pipes are. I really don't know anything about how the different pipes are engineer, I just know they work. How do this pipes compare to the other brands? Has anyone dynoed the pipes? Have you raced, with similar mods, and won? Give me some feedback on the pipes and how do you like them and your recomendations.

I had almost the same problem. My banshee started great and ran great most of the time, but there were times that it started to bog. Also when I rode it in the water it started bogging. The problem was the sparkplug coil. For some reason one plug was not passing the electrical energy to burn the fuel and for that reason I thought the banshee was runnig rich in the topend and I rejetted two size down. I damage a piston because of that. If you have a friend with a banshee ask him if you can try the sparkplug coil in your banshee. Also ckeck the sparkplug cables or see if the current is jumping between wires, in this case sometimes you can hear it too.

Why go with FMF if your are interested in dragracing? Why not getting CPI inframes or out of frames? Maybe T5's, because of the better top end power? Or are you going to cut the t3's like other people have done?

How about getting both. Or Suspension and a timming plate 3 degrees advanced. porting would be a nice touch also. More power over handling. Both ways are a great improvement over your current mods.

This is what I would do: 1. forget about the boost bottle 2. Toomey TR6 chrome pipe kit (or the set of pipes, tubes and silencers If you want to make the carb tuning yourself. You will need to buy the K&N filter for better performance) 3. timming plate advance 3 to 4 degrees 4. VForce reed cages 5. aftermarket head with 19cc or 20cc domes if you ride at sea level or 1000 feet on premiun gas ( Pro-design or any other brand) 6. set of good tires to put all that new power to the ground My guess is that with this mods you can be like in the 45 to 50 hp A stock banshee has like 32 to 34hp aprox. If you need more power, consider porting. I reed in Dirt Wheels mag an article on a Mission Yamaha's banshee it had T5's, VForce reeds, Head moded by them for 150 psi and their porting work, running with VP fuel and made 59hp to the rear wheels. Everything else was stock.