richybanshee

First of all... What size of main jets where you using before porting? No matter what the size, you need to put bigger jets, NOT smaller than before porting. Eric should have at least an idea of the size, based on the type of porting they do. If a lot is taken off the cylinders then more air will be going in and you have to put bigger jets to compensate. Since Eric told you that his porting will not change jetting a lot, asking to give you an idea of the size, they must have had this question asked many times. Do not know your altitude, or temp, but you have some mods that make your shee run hotter like advancing timming and compression, with porting you will have more air going in so if I where you I at least consider 340 mains, down size if needed. Better to be rich than because of a damaged piston. Happended to me once, I did not cried but was mad as hell. Then $$$$ for a new piston. Another option: If you had, let's say 280 before porting.... try 300-320... if needed down size. At 1000 feet from sea level, temp 70-90 farenheight, around here we run shees with 280-320 mains depending on pipes, and some of the mods you have mentioned with porting we go bigger on the mains.

hey ledofthezep we joined the HQ site the same day, and the memeber numbers are almost identical. If you are going to spend money on a new quad, buy a YFZ450 or a Honda 450R. The suzuki 400Z is better than the Honda 400, only because is faster. Consider that honda ATV's are very reliable. I preffer the race ready YFZ450 or Honda 450R, but that is me.

300 mains, air screws 1 1/2 turns from seated. If you go with the 280-290 mains probably you may need to set the jet needle to the 4rth notch. Do not go below 280 on the mains if airbox lid is off.

Take air box lid off: Go with 280-300 mains leave everything else stock, Except on the air screws, they should be like 1 1/2 turns from seated. The colder the temps, the bigger you may need to go on the mains. Note: hold the airfilter assembly with a screw. Do not want to take off the arbox lid then: Go with 260 mains... air screws 2 1/4 turns out from seated.

Go with the 310 mains. Leave everything else as it is. Secure the airfilter with a screw.

I agree three ... JEJE I mean too.

It seems there is a hidden message in the joke ... blonds are dumb. Not my opinion just the development of the joke.

Maybe you need a longer thinner jet needle, so that you can dial the mid range better. I used Alba needles and they work. Like I said: the needle is longer, thinner and with more notches (6). Stock needle is shorter and thicker with 5 notches.

Porting and timming advanced. later on you can upgrade to a better flowing drag pipe like CPI's.

I think porting is what is keeping you from winning. For drag racing a light switch power band is better, but for trail riding sucks. If you have most of the things from triniity, let them port your cylinders for mid to top end power or MX porting. Also, change that gearing to 15/41. With a 13 tooth front sprocket you may have better acceleration but you also may have to shift a lot and have less miles per hour. Is very important to have the proper pipes with the proper porting or else your shee will run like crap. In my opinion the reed spacers do not add more HP. I think they were only built so that we could put bigger carbs without hitting the clutch arm. They tent to soften the band, because of a loss of power. (your buddy has spacers on his shee) Running a lot of compression will not make you faster, lightning the flywheel neither, porting will take you there.

Maybe the dealer has bigger carbs, which if I'm not mistaken require smaller mains. CORRECT me if I'm wrong, just my thoughts. I did ride with 320 mains, Alba needle 30 pilots in stock carbs, with FMF Gnarly pipes. I do know you have to go up in the mains if temp is very cold, but also altitudes has an effect on that. I do accept that SOME, not ALL, dealers just want to sell the product.

If you live in a place where temperatures get very cold, maybe below 60 Farenhieght then starting the machine can be a pain in the ass. When the motor is cold, the fuel left sticks to the cylinder walls, because of condensation. The choke lets more fuel go in, creating a rich mixture. When the motor gets to warmer temps you can start it without using the choke. Another thing, I mix the gas and oil for a 32:1 ratio. A 24:1 is what the manual recomends but I personally do not like it. I use Klotz SuperTechiplate or Motul 800 racing oil with premiun 92-93 octain fuel. What this tells me is that you may be way rich in the pilots, something is defenetly wrong. Take airbox lid off and ride it, see if it helps, at least 1/8-1/4 throttle position.

Before anything, just in case: if you are running your stock shee without the airbox lid, probably you are running lean every where. For a stock shee at sea level and no aibox lead and everything else stock, temp 75-90 Farenheight. main jet 280 air screws 1 - 2 turns out from seated If that is not the situation, Test this:: 1. Take the snorkle off the airbox lid or airboxlid. If banshee runs better 1/8 -1/4 throttle then you are running rich. Try turning the airscrews out 1-1/2 turns. 2. If problem persists or gets worst a. Put snorckle back and turn the air screws in 1 turn and ride it. Probably it is running lean in 1/4 throttle and when you push the throttle 2/3 the jet needle takes a gives it more fuel. 3. Check if carbs are synchronized, maybe for some extrange reason they are way off. 4. It is possible that you are not used to the power band of the shee. 4-strokes tent to have a wider power band with less hit and are easier to ride, bashee's different. 5. Finally, if you are still not convinced then take it where you bought it and have it checked.

My guess is: the camcorder sound filter is FUCKED!!! If there is a sound filter...

I know turfs are better for Hard Pack dirt. Customize the tire a little by taking off some knobs and making a pattern and things change. This is what I have reed. Turfs do not performe well in muddy conditions. Do not know about Razor's. Some say IRazors are awesome.

Minkia38 I say: better stick with does three choices. There are great pipes for stock banshees. The ones that minkia38 talks about seem to work fine with stock and excellent with little mods.

Before bying anything, try turning the air screws all the way in. See if this minimizes the problem. If so go bigger on the pilot jets. FMF recomends 30 pilots with their pipes. If you live in a place where temperatures are mostly cold, you should go up on the mains. In hotter places the difference is not as bad.

First ask the people of EricGorr for advice on the setup and type of porting. Try 360 - 380 mains and see how it runs. (porting changes things a lot) GOOD LUCK

What sbacewic said. First thing is to set up your main jets since it will have an effect on the other jets. Do the plug chop method and if the mains are okay, and wide open throttle riding feels great, go on and start on the needle. Finally check the pilot jet. May be go with 30's, you have stock pipes. My bike is stock, It had 300 mains, air screws in 1 turn, no airbox lid, ridding at 1000 feet from sea level, temp 85 Farenheight, had no problems with that set up. Midrange felt stronger. Now I ride with 280 mains since I ride mostly at higher altitudes.

From what I know, a stock shee makes between 32-34 HP. Putting a K&N Filter properly jetted without airbox lid may get you to 35-39 HP. K&N info URL: http://www.knfilters.com/images/PowerSports/knpowerlids.jpg Some pipe manufactures claim 14-15 HP power increase over stock with box and filter mods. so 32 + 14 = 46 HP 33 + 14 = 47 HP 34 + 14 = 48 HP 32+15=47 HP 33+15=48 HP 34+15=49 HP From LRD site: http://www.lrdperformance.com/cgi-bin/shop...amaha%20Banshee Yamaha Banshee Banshee RFX Series pipes PEAK HP: 49.8 @ 8200 RPM WEIGHT: 17 lbs. From Toomey Racing: http://www.toomey.com/ They have Dyno runs of Procircuit, FMF SST's, Paul Turner MidRange, CPI's against their new TR6's. Every one of this pipes makes close to 50 HP. They do not display their T5's vs TR6's but I have the dyno sheet and T5's make only 47 HP. DMC claims 14 horse power http://www.dmc-on-line.com/index2.html CPI claims 1-3 horse power more than brand X http://www.cpiracing.com/support/faq/item.asp?id=13 If someone has dynoed a stock shee or with pipes and filter mod correct me if I'm wrong. MeanHoTRoD_93883 I think the banshee is a little low on power, based on the info I have collected.

At least it was not a pineapple enema. JEJE!!!

The Charger ... the Camaro SEE YA!!!!

I have used the Alba needle jet. It work good, midrange feels better. Not a lot of difference, longer and thinner needle than stock. Ups!!! my bad I got confused and started writting about the needle jet thinking of the jet needle. There is some difference in power delivery. At least in a stock machine.

Try 300 and 310 mains. Adding compression and advancing the timming makes the shee run hotter. I do not think you will need race gas. To get the stock head to pass the 155 psi static compression limit you need to mess with the domes. If I'm not mistaken the Trinity site has a little info on that, check the FAQ. I think you are running lean with 280 mains and clamp ons. I run 280 mains, stock air filter no airbox lid and stock pipes. Did run with 300 mains and also worked without bugging.

Do not know a lot about T4 pipes but I do know about T5's. I think T5's are better than T4, and Fatties are pretty much even with any toomey pipes, except TR6's. Also Fatties seem to have more lower end power and keep up with any toomey. I say, keep the fatties and spent the money in other things like: 1. timming plate (set it +3 degrees for pump gas) 2. cool head with 21cc domes if you ride bettwen sea level and 1000 feet 3. maybe Vforce reed cages