richybanshee

FMF racing:

Possible causes: 1. Check if the caps are not loose. 2. Probably while doing some jetting you bent one of the needles. 3. Damaged throttle cable.

Probably you may nee to go back to the 4rth or 3rd clip position in the needle if you put 300 mains.

PatriotRacing.net or http://www.worldwideperformance1.com Does are the ones I know.

1/4 throttle position ... it seems that it is rich on the pilots. When temps get warmer air density changes and less air will go in so the 30 pilot flows more fuel, adjust air screws. Test: take airbox lid off, completely and make a test run. if shee feels better 1/4 throttle, then you must adjust the air screws turning them 1/2 to 1 turn out.

From what I have seen and heard, do not even bother to change the SST's. You have a great all around pipe. if you want real power port the cylinders for more bottom end.

Bottom end power: FMF GNARLY or Paul Turner MidRange MidRange: FMF Fatty or Procircuit Note: Fatties and ProCircuit are good all around pipes that work with porting, but first ask Eric of what he recomends. Do not know how T5's will performe with a woods port. I do know that they are one of the best pipes for a moded shee. Ask Eric about a good pipe for the type of porting he is doing, he most know what works better with his stuff. Patriot Racing recomends Paulturner for MX and DMC for Trail riding, T5's for dunning and CPI's for 400cc duners.

Looks: The pipes look awesome, the chrome is very good, can say great, not excellent. They look great off the banshee and beautiful on it. The silencers, in my opinion, are the best looking. In a scale of 1 to 10 I will have to give a 7 for looks. Construction: The pipes are very well constructed, but I have seen better construction detail from other brands, specially on the welds and match of pipes. The left stinger tube has more welds than the right one. For some reason they did not bent the tube. Also, the divergent cone in the left pipe is angled more to the left while the right pipe is angled more down. Whent the pipes are mounted you can see that they are not exact becasuse of the divergent cone. Probably this was done for clearence. I will have to give it a score of 5 out of 10 for construction. Fit and installation: I took the whole front fender out to make installation easier. After that I just removed the stock exhaust system. You need to take the O-rings from the stock pipes since the CPI"s do not come with does installed. Also, you need to buy a pair of bolts to secure the pipes to the pipe hangers. I used stainless steel bolts. Installation was very simple, no problems with clearence what so ever. You can secure the silencers with the stock bolts. Finally, you need to trim a little the fender. I did it with a grinder, very easy, just need patience. So for fit and installation I give it a score of 7 out of 10. Sound: All I can say is that this pipes are loud. Probably louder than any other brand pout there. The sound is okay, you just need to adapt to it. So I give sound a score of 3 out of 10. Performance My banshee was jetted with 280 mains, needle in stock 3rd position, pilots 25, air screws 1 1/2 turn out from seated, airbox lid off, everything else stock. With stock pipes this jetting was great. With the CPI's the power gains were clearly evident. Mid to top end power was greatly improved. I felt I could get more out of this pipes so I put on 300 mains. Run okay, but had to lower the needle to the 2nd notch, leaning the mixture. Now the hit was more power full and it kept pulling on top. Also I had to turn in the air screws, 1/2 a turn from seated. Probably I may need to go with a bigger pilot jet. I still need to set the jetting to be almost perfect, but right know it runs like a charme. So this is what I say to CPI WOW!!! Bottom end power is almost identical to stock, Mid to Top is wayyyyyy better. So in the power deparment I give CPI an 8 out of 10 for a stock banshee. Conclusion: There are many good pipes for the banshee. Some pipes are suited for bottom end power, others for mid, others for top, some for stock engines, some for ported. I can say this, if CPI's work for a stock shee... imaging what they can do with mods . This is really an all around pipe. For recreational trail riding, or drag racing, this pipes are great. For competing in CrossCountry or any other type of race where power is need in the lower rpm range, then this is not the pipe for you. There are better pipes for lower end power. Mid to top end power has a name and it is CPI. I do recommend this pipes. Any jetting suggestions will be greatly apreciated. My shee is basically stock, except for the pipes and airbox lid removed. I ride mostly 1000 feet from sea level and higher, probably up to 3,000 feet. Temp around here is 70-85 farenheight. My jetting right know is 300 mains, needle in 2nd notch, 25 pilot jets, airscrews 1/2 turn out from seated. Want to know if you guys with CPI's and similar mods and conditions have similar jetting.

I have a new shee and do not want to port it right now. I have heard that Vito's super stock pistons alter the port timming and lower crank pressure. Probably I may get a set so: How do you guys like the pistons with the stock shee? Do they really work? Are the pistons reliable? (I know they are made by wiseco with Vito's specs) Vito says that the pistons can add 8 HP on top end, with CPI pipes I calculate at least 10 HP more, so 18 HP total, maybe a K&N filter and proper jetting 2HP more. If the shee makes like 32 HP + 20 HP of mods mentioned, that is 52 HP. What do you guys think?

If you only change from the stock foam filter to a K&N and leave everything else stock, then jetting changes will not be as necesary. Maybe 1 or 2 sizes up, at the most. BUT, if you remove the whole airbox lid, then this will require a big jetting change, even with stock pipes. Or, if you only take off the airbox lid and DO NOT change filters, this will also require a big jetting change. I had to go from 6 to 8 sizes on the mains. In my shee stock size was 200. Also I had to place the needle in the 4rth clip and the air screws half a turn in. Final scenario: Let's say you have the new K&N in place, If you remove the snorkle from the lid, then you will have to re-jet probably 4 - 6 sizes. Many people will argue about this, that is why I want you to test the set up that better works for your type of riding and area, then tell us what you found out. Test you can do: Take airbox lid off and ride your shee for a short period of time, I bet it will feel heavy and will not keep pulling in the top end. Then check your plugs, I waranty they will look white because of lean jetting.

Way lean .. that is why the shee overheats and backfires. If airbox lid is on, snorkle removed, probably 280-300 mains and 27.5 pilots. If airboxlid is off, 300 or more, 27.5 - 30 pilots. This is a great STARTING POINT, I can not predict the correct jetting. You may have to do some test before you get it right.

stock shee comes with: 190-200 mains and 25 pilots Take carbs out and let us know which size of mains are you running with. Also while you are there take the pilot jets out and check if the size is 25 or more. After that: 1. what altitude do you ride? 2. what temps around there, aproximation? 3. List all mods done to the bike. FMF recommends 260 mains, 30 pilots, with K&N filter and snorkle removed. FMF info: http://www.fmfracing.com/jetting_center.aspx

I would do this: 1. change mains to 340, put carbs and pipes. Then ride. If shee feels that it keeps pulling when throttle position is 3/4 and at 4,5, 6 gears do the plug chop method. Hopefully jetting will be near great, else keep trying, going bigger or downsizing. note: if shee feels heavie, or not pulling when throttle position is 3/4 probably then shee may be runnig lean.Go bigger on the mains. 2. After your ar finished dialing the mains, check the needle. Throttle position 1/4-3/4. Check how it runs and ckeck plugs. 3. Finally adjust the pilots, the ride it. Check throttle response and plugs. Forget about the pilots... for now. some times they are not so critical, but mains are.

I really do not know about the needle since porting will change a lot of variables and the main jet will affect all other jets. Just get the mains dialed in, do a wot in 5th or 6th and check plugs, look at the base of the plugs for a light chocolate brown, around the whole base. Then start on the needle, finally the pilots.

I listen and pickup info from every direction... That is why I'm confident of what I say. But you guys are right to have any kind of opinion, so I'm going to let all this controversy die here and wait for some feedback from watkins. The main purpose of the post was to give him an idea of where to start on jetting, I think we have done that. Finally, the number of post or a member category means nothing. Probably a rookie may know more than a HQ Legend. Here we do not debate on the number of post, we help new and old members, or chare experiences because we all have something in common ... BANSHEE's.

sredish, all I just mentioned is with stock pipes, NO AIR BOX LID. Probably my shee is not normal, who knows .... but it rides great. I think Watkins should start testing with 280 mains. The worst thing that can happen is that the shee does not ride well, but at least it will be safe and not on the lean side. I doubt he will have problems since many banshee riders here go with 280 mains, lid off, K&N filter. We ride at 1000 feet and 70-90 temps. Let him try it .. so that he can give us feedback of the test. Then will see who is closer to what he needs. To everyone.

I ride between sea level up to 2,000 feet. from me: For all mods Watkins mentions. 250 mains can be a good idea for 3000 feet over sea level and probably not so cold temps, but at sea level is way lean if running without the lid and K&N filter and temp 70 degrees. One last thing, Watkins do not base your jetting in porcelin color, look at the base of the ring. If you can not see well, chop the plug. From there comes the plug chop method. EXCELLENT HOW TO ARTICLE: (effects of altitude, air density, temperature, and gasoline on jetting) by SREDISH URL: http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=23546

Smoke can come from a lot of oil in the premix, or the use of cheap oil, leaks, etc. I say try 340, If the shee does not like it go bigger or downsize.

I saw this here. Do not remember in what category, or who did the testing. From what I know, reed spacers are for when you put bigger carbs, so that the clutch arm is not in the way. If I'm not mistaken, the guy was using Paul Turner Midrange pipes, timming +4, cool head with 165 static compression. If I'm wrong, just say so. Every body learns from things like this.

NO, no, no.... sorry 05bansh I have to desagree on that one. The range most be 280-300 mains, if at sea level and without airbox lid. If temps get very cold, put bigger mains. If you ride with the airbox lid on, and no snorkle, then put a set of 260 mains, but do not take the air box lid off or the shee will run lean. Bad things happen when the shee runs lean. I ride at 1000 feet from sea level, temp 70-90 farenheight, stock everything, no airbox lid, 280 mains, air screws 1 1/2 turns out from seated. I even can ride with 300 mains on and still be okay, no bugging. Hope this helps.

I have to agree with First Banshee. I believe you could be loosing some power with the reed spacers.

If you set the timming +4 or even +7, No. Your shee will run hotter, some might check jetting when timming is advanced and compression is raised. Advancing the timming will make your shee feel stronger in the midrange, but it will also flatten the power in the top end. if you plan on running 93 octane fuel, do not go over 4 degrees, because, like I said,the shee runs hotter.

Checkout this info before you do any more upgrades to your shee: From A&S Racing http://www.bansheeracing.com/cheetahcub.htm also: From PaatriotRacing http://www.patriotracing.net/Cheetah%20Cub.htm T5 pipes are okay with any mod, CPI's will get more ponies out of does mods.

I did use Alba jet needles, they work and cost like $15 + shipping. Vito's needles are another alternative. If you allready have a lot of main jets and pilot jets, just by the jet needle. The needle is longer and thiner than stock.

Happy birthday