richybanshee

You did not mentioned the temperature! Assuming the temp is between 70-95. Assuming stock non ported. At your elevation of 375ft over sea level, K&N pods (no airbox) with the other mods you listed. I think Mains should be around 320 - 340 jetneedle 3rd-4th notch pilot 30. (procircuit pipes like it rich) That is my guess!!!!!! Also, when you installed the timing plate, did you set the pickup coil close enough to the flywheel? (Ricky Stator recommends 0.020 gap) Open the carbs, check what jets you have installed. If jetting is really close to what I have mentined check if the bike has some kind of electrical problem.

Yes, you can feel the difference. I think the power increase will depend on the pipes. With my CPI's the midrange felt stronger. Like I said in another post, I noticed that my bike was getting a little hot so I check the jetting and after that it pulls harder throughtout the powerband. Mods like: advacing timing adding compression K&N filter and pipes really wake up the performance of the bike. At least this is what I have noticed in my bike.

My advice is to check your jetting, just to be safe. It takes a couple of minutes. Remember to put some glue on the bolts that hold the pickup coils in place ... if it comes loose you will smash the part. :ermm:

If you have not bought the plate ... get the Ricky stator plate. Is cheaper and basically does what you need ... advance the timing. I recently purchased one. I you can, and do not have them, get the stator cover allen bolts. Probably you will damage one of the stock bolts and allen head bolts are easier to loosen up. Things you need: 1. the tools (remember to use the blue bolt glue) 2. something to hold the flywheel in place. Since my father is a welder, he made a simple (Y) shape tool that hooks to the wholes in the flywheel. For getting the nut out I used a car cross bar, the one you use to get the lugs out of the car's wheels. 3. Read the instructions before doing something. 4. If your bike is stock do not go beyond +4 degrees. 5. jet the bike. I had to go up 2 sizes in the main and one in the jet needle. Hope this helps

Now .. I'm confused I thought I reed somewhere that If I had to turn the air screws all the way in I had to put a bigger pilot. I had 320 mains and the bike did not pull as I had spected so I set the main 2 sizes bigger to ckeck. Did check the jetting with new plugs and even though I did not chop the sparkplug I notice a small chocolate ring on the base. This was only with the mains. Still need to check the needle. To be save I set it a little richer and it worked good. Note: I first setted the mains and tested. Then setted the needle and tested again. The instructions of the stator plate said that I had to set the pickup coil as close as possible without going under .020, so i did it. It is exactly .020. Stock had a bigger gap. I have a NOSS cool head with 20 cc dome and 150 psi of compression.

This weekend I installed the Ricky Stator timing plate. Before installing it my jetting was 320 mains, needle in 2nd click position, 25 pilot. (CPI pipes, no airbox lid with k&N filter, cool head with 20cc domes). The instructions said that I had to place the pickup coil as closer as I could to the pulser (no less than .020). I did everything by the book. The first thing was ... I did not notice an improvement and for some reason it felt like it was getting hot. So I bump the main jet from 320 to 340 and the jet needle to the third clip position. Now, with this jetting the bike pulls like a bull. It revs faster and in 6th gear it keeps pulling. I did notice that at 1/8 - 1/4 throttle it started to rev by it self. So I closed the airscrew all the way in. I may have to get me some 30 pilots. Also will try the jet needle in the 4rth clip position to see if there is an improvement and 1/8-1/4 throttle gets better. I ride like at 700 feet over sea level and temperatures are like 77- 89 F. I really recomend this mod. I noticed that with the CPI pipes this mod works extremely well. Will try to get it to a dyno to see how much power it has. Probably something between 47-52 HP. I will like to know if you guys had to jet the bike a few sizes bigger because of advanced timing? I Thought that the 320 mains and/or 330 could be the top, but it seems I was wrong.

I think you should get the TR6 pipes for the stock bike. Toomey says they are 8hp more than the T5's. The thing is that the best performing pipe for a stock bike seems to be the TR6. Also, the pipes look awesome. Properly jetted the pipes should pull better than does DMC's. From what I have heard, the DMC's produce a wide power band, so not much peak HP. In addition, get a K&N filter and if you can, for like $35 you can get the Ricky Stator timing plate and andance it to 4 degrees. Keep in mind that you will also need a flywheel puller and sonmething to hold the flywheel in place when unbolting. This mods will get you a good power boost over stock. :biggrin:

If you want more low end power: get 20-21cc domes (use 93 octane fuel) get a 13 tooth front sproket (I do not think you need it with the Procircuit Pipes, but since you want a little more ...) get 22" wheels (so that you do not get stock on every root) I ride the trails with CPI pipes ... yes, I know ProCircuit, FMF and others are better for trail riding, but I love the pipes and still manage to go over any obstacle and high slope hills, even mild mud situations. You get used to it.

A few weeks a go I called Fast Farm Toyz to purchase a CoolHead with 20cc domes, K&N filter and a timing plate. They did not had the Cool head, at the time so I waited like a week before I was pm about it (No problem, since I was not in a hurry). The service was great. Shipment took just 3 days (US PS). So, this past weekend I installed the cool head. Installation just took me like 2 hours, and I had never installed one of this before. Note: I did my assigment and reed alot before actually doing the job, and also purchased some needed tools like a torque wrench, and Compression Tester (optional), among others. After taking the gas tank out of the way I did a compression test with an Actron Compression tester. Since my bike is basically new, only rode it like 10 times I was specting compression to be between 100-120. As I had spected, compression was 110 constantly on both cylinders. Altitude is like 700 feet over sea level. When I finished the head installation and filling the shee with new coolant I checked the compression and it was bump up to 150. This is a gain of 40psi over stock. Did not rejet. Still I will checked to see If I can get more power. Now, the real test ... riding it. The power at lower rpms was bump up, with this mod you can feel the difference. I went trail riding the bike felt stronger and without the need to shift toomuch. Importanly, the bike never overheated. I really recommend this mod. My mods: CPI inframe pipes K&N filter with outwear stock airbox with lid removed Noss Machine Cool Head with Fast Racing Logo (silver) and 20cc domes jetting: 320 mains, jet needle in 4nd clip position (2nd notch from top to bottom), pilot 2 turns out fuel: 93 octane ... any brand temperature is like 87 F Next week I will install the timing plate, set it to +4 degrees, rejet and see what this baby(the bike) can do. :biggrin:

I will like to know(wondering) if pipes have an effect, if any, on compression. For example: T5 pipes and CPI pipes: the width of the pipes is very different, also the parts that together form the exhaust. This pipes go after different power bands. The pressures the pipes produces will be different ... so anyone ... what do you know? Another example, does not have to do with pipes: porting Thanks for your help!!!

If your are between sea level and 1000 feet from sea level with the 98 octane fule: From the refernce table I have seen, I will have to say 19cc 0r 20 cc domes. But the best way to know is to test the bikes compression.

I had FMF Gnarly (bottom to mid power at low rpms) pipes in my 96 banshee, with K&N filter, without airbox lid, and a 15 tooth front sprocket. For trail riding this pipes proved to be excellent. Front end felt lite. My friend has Procircuit Pipes and they were also excellent for the trails. Tested some T5's and liked the sound, chrome look and the power was good from mid to top and gave the impression of pulling hard in the top revs. Before the introduction of the TR6's Toomey revield that their pipe made the least power compared to FMF SST, Procircuit, Paul Turner, and their new TR6's. DMC aliens where not in the comparison. For a stock shee, I know for sure this brands will satisfy your needs: FMF (Gnarly,Fatty, SST) Procircuit Toomey (T5,TR6) Not for stock shee: CPI Shearer I have CPI's in my stock 2005 banshee and they make power, better than stock, but not at the needed rpms. With pipes, k&n filter, shaved head (or cool Head) for added compression and advanced timing your shee will be way better than stock. :biggrin:

I reed the same thing. :cool: Check the bike's jetting just in case, but nothing to do with cool head. You need to check jetting for: reeds\reedcages advanced timing pipes different filter than stock airbox lid removed etc.

Guys ... thanks fo the replies. Will not trade the pipes,for the moment, I like them. I'm going to buy the cool head and the timing plate. After I re-jet and test I will let you know how it works.

Okay ... This is my ... X post in a long ... long time. I had a 1996 banshee with FMF Gnarly pipes with timming plate +4, that I sold in 2004. Then I bought a new banshee in 2005, could not resist the tentation, and put on CPI inframe pipes. Made the proper jetting, but the bike was not as I had hope. I do not want to port it since it is basically a new machine. I have only use it like 6-10 times.(If you are wondering why ... because of work ... among other things.) I'm starting to ride again and I'm thinking of buying the Noss Cool head with 20 cc domes , the Pro Design timing plate to set it in +4. From what I have reed the added compression and advanced timming will help the bottom to mid Power hopefully shifting the power curve enough to be able to have usefull power in all rpms. I mostly ride trails, some time drag race with my friends. The elevation around here is like 900 feet above sea level and the temperature is like 85 - 95 F most of the year. I do not want to change the pipes, I like the pipes but the power with the stock bike is not so ... powerfull. Do you guys think that the mods I plan to do make sence? What do you recommend?

Do a Search on the pipes you want. CPI's, maybe Shearers and possibly Rockets will not achive maximun horse power with stock porting configuration. FMF SST, TOOMEY TR6, Procircuit will get the most HP out of the stock porting. Advancing the timming +4 will give you better midrange power and milling the head more bottom end power. With this power you can put at least a 15 front sproket and be okay, gaining some miles per hour.

K&N That drops on the stock box: 1. No airbox lid - mains between 260-280 with stock pipes, temp. like 70 F and altitude between sea level and 1500 feet 2. Lid on - mains 240-260

Try FMF Ganrlies... this pipes have a lot of low end torque and power. In my opinion better than the 2 into 1

K&N will let more air into the engine. Buy the outware also and ditch the airbox lid. Put some screws throught the airbox to hold the airfiletr assembly in place, later on you can get the adapter plate. K&N filter $40 outware $10 280 mains $03 x 2 total $69 If you want to get and adapter plate, get a cheap one, no need to spend a lot in something like that. Alba action has some, probably other people too. The biggest difference in power comes from the pipes so get ones.

I had does pipes and they are an excellent pipe for trail riding. The power down low is really good, wheelies are easier and the front end feels lite. The power is not tiresome and has plenty from bottom to midrange. They are not the same as fatties because the power comes sooner on the rpm range. Defenetly can pull bigger gearing like 15 front sprocket and still do not have to downshift as much. I did do short drag races with some people that had stock shee's with T5's, ProCirciuts, and other brands of pipes and I won a lot of times. Pipes react very good to mods. I had this combo Excellent: FMF Gnarlies + Power Core 2 Silencers timming advanced +4 Cool head with 21 cc domes

I do not think a Predator would win on a dirt or pavement drag race against a banshee. Does quads are heavier and have less power. Now if put a YFZ 450 stock against a stock 350 Banshee, probably they will go head to head with the YFZ wining most of the time.

I think the best All around pipes are this two : FMF Fatties and ProCircuits With stock, mild, or wild porting they will pullhard from bottom to top. They deliver most of the power on the midrange, great for trails, casual drags, even motocross.

I do not want to be rude, if a lot of people say something sucks, then it probably does. If the reeds are working for you then, that is good. Maybe VForce is the better reed system but who cares, at least you are happy with the results you got. I personally will put VForce. The only thing is that I do not know which one is better the 2's or the 3's.

Probably ProCircuits pipes were one of the best choices with the setup your shee has. T5's will look a lot better (chrome) and give you a more of a top end power while maintaning buttom end power and more future porting modifications. Go with T5's .. they look great chrome and performe better with mods and they are not a drag inframe pipe.

Good info.