travis6767

I guess if you want to you can but i would pry wait until i ported the cylinders, but they would help

snopczynski why do you say trinity = slow whats wrong with them???

if it comes down to it you might have to take the wiring harness apart and ohm out every single wire that goes to the stator , the cdi . the coil, i may just be a connector did you check all of them?, and maybe use a little dielectric grease on the connections to help them

i did almost the samething only i sand blasted them and put 3 coats of header paint on them i took 2 cans $20 but ut was worth it the paint lasts good to i rode it about 5 times after they were painted and washed it after every ride and they didnt fade in color or anything

sorry man but that thing is ugly

stock carbs are 28 mm and you can only go .100 over stock on the bore, so get new cylinders then do your porting and if you want top speed go with a dune port ot drag port because the mx and trail will help with the bottom end

maybe it not running right if you just bought it maybe your jetting is off if you live at a different elevation and gear will make a big difference, who cares if you go 70 or 100 its how fast you can get there is whats so great about banshees and welcome to the hq this site will help you make that banshee run like a raped ape

i wouldnt adjust that from the bars unless your just going to be drag racing it, because if you think about it you need a little slack in the cable otherwise when you turn the bars your idle will go up when you dont want it to, so if your riding in the trees or dunes or anywhere that you will need to turn i woulnt do that, thats a stupid idea, the idle screws are sold for a reason and if there adjusted right they will work right

when your under a load what do you mean you cant shift it, as in you cant pull the shifter up or when you do nothing happens? could be clutch adjustment maybe your clutch is not disengaging enough under a load when you pull the clutch in

to remove the ball joint from the spindle just hit the spindle with a ball peen hammer where the ball joint bolt goes in on the (side of the spindle) not the threads, this works everytime and you cannot remove stock ball joints on these bikes

i have had the tm design for about 3 or 4 years and no problems at all still tight and look nice on the bike

located in holton,KS www.farmandsandtoys.com

it doesnt take much to beat yfz450 , raptor 660 and 700, the only thing that ran with me was a polaris predator, that was faster than i thought it would be, try and race him

ya the kit should come with the cable to

i think ls1 inferno means the timing may be off like the keyway broke maybe , did you replace reeds, sounds like that could be a problem, and check the gap between the pickup coil and the flywheel

have you looked at the reeds, sounds like they may be broken

if the clutch is that bad that i doesnt move at all, well thats just fucked up, sounds to me like the clutch needs to be adjusted in the case not at the lever, i had a friend that had this problem on a blaster, i went over to help him out and he had the adjustment way off, put a little pressure on the piece that the cable goes into there should be an arrow on the top of it, that needs to line up with the arrow on the top of the case, with pressure on it pushing that piece toward the right side of the bike, now to make the arrows line up you need to have the clutch cover off and the bolt and or screw in the middle of the clutch assembly will move that arrow to where it needs to be, if the clutch fibers are loose in the basket after adjusting the clutch then you may have other problems hope this helps and when you are adjusting the clutch just disconnect the clutch cable

If the brake line is old it can cause brakes to drag, if the fluid is dirty or if the line is cracked,that may also be the reason for not being able to bleed it

i have them on my shee, i am happy with them they work great and look great, if you get a set get chromoly joints they cost a little more,but are alot stronger

before you go spend the money on a stator check the pic up coil gap, it should be close to .020"

i like they color of the frame, you should just keep the shee and save money for the jetski

i did that, i just put those boyseens in there last weekend to see if it would make a difference, and it did nothing, i forgot to mention that it kinda cuts out on full throttle in the higher gears (5-6), i am thinking of getting some vforce3 and see if that helps

i have a problem with my jetting still, cant seem to get it right, i have stock reed cages with boyseen reeds, trinity mx port and polish cylinders, +4 timing, t-5, k and n pods. i used to have fmf reeds and cages (280mains stock pilots)and it ran great, but the reeds were junk and they stopped making them so i used the stock cages and put boyseen reeds on them, and i has never ran the same, i have messed with the jetting and still runs like shit, with 280-300mains i have to slowly roll into the throttle so it dosent bog, the bogging makes me think that the jetting is to high but the plug look good at 280, if anybody has any ideas please let me know, its been about a year since its ran right

think they are called oury or dury,but they work great no blisters last long time

Hey guys i was wondering if the t-5 pipe is a good pipe for trails?