GrMeyer

Umm. What grade of race gas? 100,110 or mixed?

I know if its around 40deg out at glamis I have to put in 340 mains and the airscrews are almost all the way in. (That's with pods filters.) I would start with the air screw about 1-1/2 turns from fully seated and the needle in the middle for starting out.

If u run the lid. I would start with around a 280 main unless u add holes. If u add holes the depending on how big and how many I would start around 300. No lid I would start with around 320 like loco said. Deff need to move to 27.5 pilots. There is a web site I post all the time on here. Read up on that. It will help u understand what's going on better. I would post it but I'm on my cell. Any probs just post back.

Good to know! Did u rejet for both? And how's it running now that u have the fatty on. Also there are more bolt ons that u can add if u already don't have them to help wake the banshee up and be the machine it should be.

I have seen people over oil their filters. Which in turns the oil gets sucked down to the slides and the oil starts to gum up the slides. Just clean the slides and check the cable like loco said.

Whats the elevation. What pump gas can you get? Whats the compression now with what head you have on?

Whats the air screws set at?

Depending on your temp. I would start out with around 330 and work from there.

Have you sycned your carbs?

run the shit you have now. You have them. So why spend more money? But the T5s would be my guess. But it also depends on what kind of trials your talking about. Tight trees or forest roads trails?

starting point with the pods Mains: 300-310 Needle: Middle Pilots: 27.5 Air Screw 1-1/2 turns from fully seated Read up on this site http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html

http://www.dunereview.com/rebuild.htm This is old but you will still need to buy the manual.

sync your carbs. idle screw is to set the idle of the banshee on a warmed up motor with no tors on. Are you talking about the air screws that are at about a 45deg on the left sides of the carbs? Also make sure your carbs have the choke tube still connected.

try to resync your carbs

yeah I fun AVgas Run it 100% in two of my build raptors with no probs. I run a 50%50 mix of 100ll and 91pump in my banshee. Have been running it for over three years with no probs. But I like to also run a carb clean every now and then. About a cap full of the stuff in each bike but the banshee. I just rebuild my 660 motor and everything still looked good. I thought the carbon was going to be bad but it was just as clean as when I was running race gas. 20cc domes might put you in the 160's. Off of Noss's website. But you will need to put the domes in for the gas your wanting to run.

is there a reason why you want to keep the stock length of arms? Going up to +2 arms will aid in better handling all around. If your money can take the hit, I would go for preload and compression adj. Which is the shock with a rez and a nob on the side so you can control how hard the impact is from the shocks. there are sites that offer a set up with arms and shock for a nice price. But they take all the guess work out of it. I got my arms for my banshee off ebay for around $200 new with lifetime on them. So then to the shocks. they are going to start around the Mid$450's up to $1500 for full adj. The rear will start out around $800 and if you add the link. Thats another pretty penny. So if your going to just do some easy trail rides. I would just look at getting the pogo elkas which have just preload adj. I have a buddy that runs them and loves them. But its all on how much your really wanting to spend. Because you can get well into the 2k mark really easy.

Well your not only going to need just 260 mains. Your prob have to get everyone from 250-310 with a 27.5 pilot. Being able to jet the motor is one main key in banshee for longevity.

In order to get u a good jetting. We would need u to list the mods, elevation and temps

I just ported my stock cages and put some Boyesen Power reeds, put my money into suspension over the V-3s

I run at +4. I do a mix of 50/50 mixed gas. Just to lazy to turn it up more. But also thinking of playing with Meth for next years dune season.

I got lucky... Well not really. I had cleaned my Pod filters and put them back on. Well I went to get a flat head to tighten them down. Well had to take a phone call and well. All I can say is about 10mins the first night for a ride to the hill from camp a pod fell off and lean out one side, melting down a pison. But it then put me to the wonderful world of ported jugs!!!

1. Drill four holes in the corners of the air cleaner adapter. Bolt it to the air box. Take the lid off and rejet the bike. Big mod there. 2. You can cut the stock timing plate to run down to about +4 deg, some people can get +5 out of them. So then all you would need is a flywheel puller. 3. Cutting the stock reed cages. All this stuff is on the forum. So use the search button! Big friend there! Also read up on this. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html

Are you sure your bike has 30mm carbs on them?

triple buffs dont really come into play that much unless your just full out drag. I have a buddy that has them with 8 paddle vs my none buff. Same rims. Not that much to really pay the difference in. Plus your more prone to getting shit stuck in the tire. IE twigs. Over the past three years that i have had my haulers. I have had no punchers. My buddy with the triple buffs has had 2 punchers this dune season at glamis. One from a twig and one from a peace of glass. His tires also lose air twice as fast.

What are you saying in almost impossible to sand the bike up? As in the front end has to much sag and wont go to ride height?