Meat

yea I forgot about that, you do have to be a member to view stuff over there.

this is pretty neat. http://www.bluetraxx.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=36578

The black knob is the compression adjustment, turning it to the right will stiffen up the shock somewhat and it should help with heavier guys. So turn that black knob all the way to the right and see what happens. The rear shock also has preload collars on it, you can screw these collars down the body of the shock and that should help with the quad sagging when you sit on it, it should also stiffen up the shock. The adjuster found at the very bottom of the shock is the rebound adjuster, I dont think this will help your problem at all. So dont fiddle with it for now. If you turn your compression knob all the way to the right\stiffest setting and you turn the preload collars down a few turns you might have a pretty stiff ride. Your going to have to experiment with these two adjustments to try to get the quad to hold your heft, give a nice ride and not bottom out over little ditches and potholes. There's always the option of aftermarket shocks valved\setup for your weight. Weighin 250 lbs, you should be able to dial in your stock shock.

sneeky, i think the stock chain is O-ringed

QuickSand hands down

Why do you guys use O-ring chains ? Waste of money IMHO, the O or X rings are there to help with the lube'in of the chain right ?? Dont we all spray our chains down with some lube b4 and after every ride ? Do you need those O-rings in there just in case you have to ride your Banshee across the Mojave and you forgot to carry along your chain lube ? I bot a $20 non O-ring for my Banshee 3 or 4 years ago, and im still using it today. Iv taken a one link out of it so far, and iv had to shorten it when I got my -2 swingarm. It was rated at 8000 tensil strength, just as high as those fancy LMNOP-ring chains that sell for $75. I would like to own one of those Ti-moly Sidewider chains tho, just because they're 14,000 tensil BTW im using Maxima's Chain Wax for lube.

Alot easier said than done

yea you can pickup an A arm frame, but then you'll have to remove everything from your J-arm frame and then re-bolt it too the A-arm frame. Thats alot of time and work. For some\alot of guys its just easier to weld in a few peices of steel\conversion kit. And good luck trying to find a straight, good condition A-arm frame for under $189. How well did the ATVRacing kit fit into your frame ?? I mean, did you have to tweak it to fit properly ??

yea its like 1.5 quarts whenever you change the oil, 1.7 if you rebuild the engine. Iv always put in a 2 full quarts, iv read that it doesnt hurt and the higher level helps with the clutch rod\ball welding problems.

Iv used EBC clutches ever since iv been riding. Iv tired Barnett once and it grabbed and lasted just like the EBC, the only difference I noticed was the Barnett clutches cost more. I have a spare brand new EBC clutch kit waiting to get installed, but after I use that one up, im gonna try one of the $30 dollar Tusk clutches from Rocky Mountian. Id think all of the billet clutch baskets are the same, your gonna pay more for the Hinson name. Someone(Iridea250r maybe) posted that they are not all equal, that he ate up clutch baskets till he put in a Hinson. Iv seen a clutch basket in the ATV magazine ads that has stainless steel "covers" on all of the "fingers" on the clutch basket...... to protect the fingers from grooving. Sounds like a good idea to me, my stock basket on my '88 motor had every one of those fingers grooved. I think Motion Pro is the company with this new basket with the stainless finger protectors. Iv talked to the guys at Hinson about thier clutch recommendations and they want you to use a stock factory Yamaha clutches. They say the aftermarket clutches are too abrasive and they will wear the fingers out on the clutch basket. Now I dont know this for sure, but id bet if you groove the fingers on a Hinson clutch basket from using an aftermarket clutch, Id bet Hinson would tell you "tuff shit" on any kind of warrenty.

$189 from www.atvracing1.com How much did they sock you for shipping ??

Look at the second picture down. Look at the piston thickness at the intake windows. Thats a good picture showin' the thickness differences.

Using the speed test link that THX-1138 posted..... Im surfin at a whopping 44.6 kilobits per second Im ready for broadband, good timing with this thread, I just have to decide between cable and DSL.

Boonman, if you want, I can setup a page on the banshee zone for your shift stars. Just send me all the pictures you'd want and write up all the info. I might be able to drum up some business for your trip. I'll do this for any of you guys who need some cash for the Dumont trip. If you have a Banshee related product, send me pictures and info and i'll hook you up with a page on the banshee zone. Stan, your swingarms maybe ?? The site gets about 200 hits per day, everyday. Just write everything up so I can just copy&paste it. As for me going..... I doubt it. Iv been following this thread since it started and have been forcing myself not to post to it. One voice in my head says I cant afford it and the other voice says I might never have another chance like this again, I could be dead tomorrow. I'll be making J-arm 2 A-arm conversion kits again soon, so maybe if I sell a few.... I really have to do some thinking. If I dont go myself, I wanna dontate some of my soupies for camp kitchen. Closer to March, i'll send B370 a few of em to take along.

yep, when i rode my ported 404 engine with the stock chassis dimensions and stock shocks, the quad felt dangerous. Too narrow, too stiff and unstable at wot 4th,5th gear pulls. I couldnt fully enjoy the new motor cause I was too busy tryin to keep the damn thing on 4 wheels. Once I widened it up with some A-arms and axle, it made all the difference in the world. Unstoppable now !!!

hey bill thats a great link. thanks

Yea I agree, upgrade that suspension before you get porting work done. I did my engine work first and it was too much for the stock suspension\width.

Oilsmoke, thats how the Raptors are setup too. Thats how the Rz's are also. My old 230 Quadsport had a linkage style shifter too. Pretty much sucked, I rigged my Quadsport shifter so it mounted directly to the shift shaft. Here's a pic of the Rz shift linkage.......

OOOoo ya, I didnt think about the one pipe blueing and the other side not. Boonman might be onto to something. Air leak on that side causin' a lean condition. Inspection time.

Iv been running a set of powerpistons succesfully for the past 3 years. I agree, the power increases prolly come from a combo of the raised dome, higher intake widows and thier skirt design. They might be lighter than a comparable sized Wiseco, I dunno. Here's a few pictures I took. The Powerpiston is the one of the right, standard Wiseco on the left.

Agreed. I havent heard much about the dial-a-jets on this forum. If it was me, I would get the engine broke in, jetted correctly and running good, then Id slap in the dial-a-jets.

nice

thats some sorta linkage shifter, iv never seen one made for the Banshees. Raptors use a linkage shifter, but its not attached anywhere near the swingarm pivot bolt. You gotta post a picture of it, Id love to see it.

Usually caused from lean jetting. Post your mods, elevation, air tempertures and what jet sizes your running.