mopar1rules

My vote is for a vitos 4mm long rod crank. Mine has been good so far. Only problem was keyway for water pump gear seemed to be off a little. Had to sand the key to make it fit the keyway. The rods are good tho.

Are you using a trinity head? If so the problem lies in the squish band angle being negative to the piston crown angle. I had to remachine a set of trinity domes for a guy locally. Trinity sucks!!

Yeah +4 timing seems to works best with stock head and lower comp ratio. Once you start improving head dome profile and increasing comp ratio, then stock "0" timing seems the best. The +4 helps low end but you will notice your top end suffer some.

This ain't the first time i heard jeff at FAST give a setup that he said was suppose to be pump gas worthy when it really ain't. That squish is far too tight for pump gas and you can't use your comp tester to dictate what octane of fuel to run. You go off of comp ratio and not a cranking psi reading from a gauge. I had to machine 22cc domes to be in 110 octane fuel range, for my 64.5mm bore 4 mill build. There is no way unmachined 22cc domes will work on pump gas in a 4 mill build. Adding another base gasket will help the squish issue and not jack with the port timings enough to notice by seat of the pants.

What kinda port job done on the 4mil cylinders? Do you know any specs?

Someone likes math and making sure their Texas Instruments scientific calculator still works. Lol.

Still have 19cc and 22cc domes available. Someone needs more domes.

I hear ya about Tom retired and not supporting his software any longer. Yes TSR gives octane estimates, but I'm 100% sure its based off of the UCCR and not dome shape. I don't recall the octane requirement change when I played with the head design package. I only notice the octane requirement change when I play wih the compress program. You don't have Bi-Motion? Your picture looks just like Bi-Motion. What program do you have then? Yeah I hear ya about people possibly getting carried away with the sealing grease. I give only enough for the head and gasket to seal and no oozing goes on. IMO I do it very accurately. Everyone has there own way I guess. I just never had the cc volume program answer equal what my actual measured amount. I don't know if the creator of the software has his formulas round to high up or whatever and that's where my differences come from, but I just continue to measure with the burette and SOMETIMES use the software to get me in the ballpark.

Exactly!

Question for the original poster, how do you like that BiMotion software? I have and use TSR and like it. I never found the computer calculations of cc volume to ever be what the actual cc volume is that i measure with my burette filled with kerosene. I just do it the trusty burette way and know the actual. Some the calculations on paper or in theory, don't quite seem to equal what the real world measurements are.

Got the payment. 17cc domes sold. The 19cc and 22cc domes are still available.

You want the 17cc domes? Then send $35 as a "gift" to: mopar_rules1@hotmail.com I will need your mailing address.

Pics sent

I will send pics tonight when i get home.

I forgot to add the price.....$35 shipped per pair.

I have 3 used sets of pro-design domes. 17cc, 19cc, and 22cc. One of the 22cc domes is brand new and there are 2 uses ones. One is beat up from a broken ring and the other is kinda dinged up by the o-ring groove from being dropped. I have pics of domes for those interested. All domes are for near stock bore and stock stroke.

I agree that it seems pro-design domes have a really wide squish band. It makes for a higher MSV and require less ignition timing advance. I prefer an average band width and nothing really over 60% SAR. Pro-design has some that I thought I remember being around 70%-72% SAR. That's wide!

I've found that by using a not so aggressive cutter and by tiping the handle a certain way, takes away 95% of the chatter that can come from using the sometimes tricky CC specialties 90* 1MC unit. I also have the non reversabile TMX 1/3hp motor and its a torquey unit for sure! Love the quality tools. I used a 90* blue point air grinder for a few years, but found it to have zero torque and you need to run it wide open to have some power and then it grabs and chatters around. It sucks!

Sounds like whoever cut your domes, has the squish band angle NEGATIVE to the piston crown angle, instead of POSITIVE. Trinity domes are notorious for this also, as well as some Pro-Design domes.

I see. So I wonder why wiseco cut such a big window? They should have known better??

But I can see from your pic that you had a forged wiseco and it cracked, but you have little "meat" left there on that piston. Why did you go so wide on that intake port?

Its more prone for a lightened/ported cast piston to crack, then a forged one. Something to think about I guess.

Rods with a "K" and a circle around it, are I believe made by KingRod in Taiwan. Andy from M&M posted some info about them way back.

I have a pro design head and have been fighting a leak problem myself. It likes to leak out of the head studs. New o-rings don't fix it either. IMO the head design is the problem. The head shell should be 1 piece instead of 2 pieces and it should use a stock head gasket instead if o-rings, so the bastard doesn't leak. I fixed the problem by throwing away the pro-design.......I mean poor-design head and machining a stock head and using that. A friend of mine tested between a stock head and pro-design head and the pro-design only dropped coolant temp by 2deg. Not enough to justify any benefit. I understand your head is a Ada head and mine is a pro-design, but I would remedy the situation with the use of a stock machined head.

The intake windows in the piston skirt aren't what you get concerned about, its the piston crown edge that dictates the port timing of the ports in the cylinder. The blaster piston has a different dimension, between the piston crown edge to the wristpin bore, versus the stock banshee piston or 795 series piston. Understand?