mopar1rules

sounds like loose wiring or connections somewhere. maybe something w/the killswitch wiring?? i had problems w/mine last year, where if i would turn the bars to the left, it would die. turns out the wiring that runs into the killswitch housing, was all F'ed up.

you will need to put those rubber plugs in the bottom of the cylinders. w/o them, you will have leaks occuring from the cylinder bases.

the 73mm outside diameter sleeves, i think are the stock replacement ones? maybe this link will help? http://atv.parts-unlimited.com/7/280/6404917?q=wsm%20sleeves

is a local shop porting your cylinders for you? if so, just ask them how long it will take. if you're doing the cylinders yourself, they will take as long as however good you want them. the more work you do, the longer the port job will take.

what pipes are those? your shee looks to be in really nice shape. i wish my parents would have let me get such cool toys @ 14 yrs old....LOL. i had to settle for a 10-speed bike.....LOL.

did the water pump impeller fail somehow, where its not pumping/flowing your coolant??

if i'm not mistaken, i think he can use the WSM big bore pistons, that are available thru parts unlimited. i found this link....it seems you can only use the WSM pistons in a WSM sleeve? http://www.procycledepot.com/BIG_BORE_PIST...0400-91487.html

you would use 68mm pistons, w/a 68mm bore. what does the OD and ID of your ebay sleeves measure?

the thread goes from a pro-design cool head gasket/o-ring question, to all of a sudden a bunch of garbage. WTF?? yeah, is there a deleted post or something?? i missed the boat on this one too.

the exhaust power valves that amsoil's note says, refers to snowmobiles and dirt bikes and such, w/exhaust valves, which adjust the exhaust port timing. it would still be fine to run in your quad. i personally use amsoil dominator, and love the stuff. ain't switching oils anytime soon.

turn your air screws in to like 1 turn from closed. i think you stated that you were @ 2-1/2 turns out? try the air screws @ 1 turn out, but i think you will end up needing 27.5 pilots and 1-1/2 turns out on air screws.

yep, bigger the domes, the lower the compression. are you @ sea level?

i have fatty's as well, and neither of my pipes rest on the engine head or coolant hose. i have like a 1/4"-5/16" gap, between the hose and clutch side pipe. maybe i got a good set??

sweet. sounds easy enough.

josh, where did you find the 66mm-68mm bore sleeves. i can't seem to find any in parts unlimited or anything. thanks.

isn't there a press fit on the sleeves, like .003"-.005"? or do they just have a size on size fit, for a slight press fit w/a mallet hammer?

they aren't big bore sleeves, if the bore of the sleeve is 65mm. big bore sleeves start out at 68mm bore.

for your gaskets, just use the o-ring kit from pro-design. don't use a steel type head gasket for like a stock head.

my buddies is like that too. it will melt the hose. his is like that from the engine not being "shimmed" properly. he's missing those 2 fancy washer things and i believe that's your problem as well.

it IS rich or SEEMS rich? did you check the plugs? your jetting doesn't sound to be the fattest, but you could most likely drop down to 320-330's.

the dual stage foam uni-filters will filter out dust better than the k&n filters. i've been tossing up the idea of switching to pods myself. right now i have the box on, w/uni-filter, no snorkel, and airbox lid looking like swiss cheese....LOL.

the reason for the delayed powerband hit, is because its leaner than F@#$!! i can't believe you haven't smoked the motor yet.

ok, you said that your buddy said to run 160 mains and that we (bansheehq) said to run like 300 mains? well, the bansheehq jetting spec, ain't going to be what blows up your engine...its RICHER. its going to be your buddies primo spec that makes your engine go south. also, you say that you can't afford to rebuild it? from the picture, it looks like your living in a pretty wealthy neighborhood. just ask your paps for some $, as he probably bought the quad for you in the 1st place. also, you said something about race ready? are you planning on racing this thing? if so, that's going to most likely cost you more than a top end rebuild. racing is expensive. if you want jetting help, post every stinkin mod you have, elevation where you live, temps that you ride in, and people will give you a very good ball park setup, that will require very little to no tuning necessary.

is the bog on the bottom, coming off of idle, or on take off? is the bog @ midrange or top end? what?

i would put clip on the needle to the middle groove. check float height. for determining the difference between the float bowls for the 2 carbs, is in the float bowl itself. look down that little passage in the float bowl, there will be a jet in the bottom of that passage. but only on one of the float bowls. the bowl w/the jet goes on the carb w/the choke. that jet determines how much fuel goes up and to the choke circuit for starting.