hercalmighty

Ok I did some searching and I think I'm looking at a CGL OR A BGL needle. I think I need the G because I ran out of clip postions going leaner and it was getting better. Now I'm think of going with the B because the transfer from mid to top is really rough and the taper controls that but the site I was looking at said you really shouldnt change the taper. So all you jetting pro's out there hit me up and clue me in. What does everyone think? I hate buying more jets then I need so lets hear some opions

Ok guys need a little HQ wisdom. Hillclimbr came up to get some help with his shee. So I got into and when I started the carbs were out of synch, airscrews were off from each other and it had 148 main, 48 pilot, and a CEL with the clip in the 2nd from the top. Now the mods, Drag port from FAST, PWK 33, CPI inframes, K&N pods, +4 timing. I'm about 500' above sea level and it was 45 degrees. Pick-up gap set at .018, compression was a little low I think (tested the gauge on my shee and dirt bike, 120 on shee with a 6 year old top end, 160 on dirt bike) I got 120 on his. I dont know if the head is shaved or not. I did not check the squish. The carbs are now synched, floats set at 16mm. Now I first set the jetting at 162 main, 48 pilot, CEL in the middle, 1 1/2 turns out. I took it out for a ride and from idle all the way to 3/4 throttle it was just loading up bad but once I could get the rpm's up into the top the thing would just rip. I went back in and put a 45 pilot in and that cleaned up the idle to 1/4 and cleaned up the middle a tad. Took it in again and put the clip all the way to the top. Rode it again and up to about 1/3 seemed clean (maybe a little ajustment on the airscrew) but still loading up in the middle but ALOT better and the transition from bottom to mid, to top was alot smoother and I only needed a little cluth to get it up into the top. I know this setup is absent of a bottom end and I'm not looking for that out of the bike, what the problem is is that the bike just doesnt tranistion through the powerband cleanly. It bogs down in the middle before it hit the top, not just "it doesnt have a low end". I'm looking for a needle that will help clean up the middle just alittle bit mostly from about half throttle to 3/4 throttle then into the top. Thanks again guys all help is appriated

The orginal Ghetto Fabulous

You dirty little post whore. Now just need Loco to chime in

Yeah the Mytherbuster figured out that the barrel had to be almost totally dismanteled to actually break apart when it hit the ground.

Like Rippen said, NW I'm cool with you, your coming on here and saying your peace in an intelligent manner. Wiz is just trying to stir ish up. NW you didnt say you were breaking stuff Wiz was, thats who my comments were towards.

Dude are you kidding me? You have sand, I have mud and clay bugging me down. Do you think we only run in the bright sunny afternoon? I'll put my bike through more abuse in a 2 hour race then you well in three whole weekends of play riding. Plus we have this coal crap here in Pa. That ish is worse then sand (yes I have riding in sand) Maybe your not building up your motors right or maybe your running too much paddle

My lid had the snorkel off and two holes drilled in the back of the lid and it still was like it was ckoked up

If your going to run an airbox do not use the lid. I tried running mine with a lid and it was like I had the choke on

If your breaking all of that crap just by feathering the clutch you need to look into why thats happening. I have beat the living shit out of my bikes clutching it out of stuff and I NEVER broke any of the stuff you said you broke. Do you know how many times I have to blip the throttle and feather the clutch through the woods in a 2 hour harescramble? Probably 10 times as many as you do in a whole weekend. And I tell yeah in 17 years of racing I have never had a DNF because of a mechincal failure.

Yeah its better to start rich and work down then lean and work back up. Actually try a 48 pilot first but I think you will end up with the 155/45 setup. Aso do you still have your airbox lid on?

Its a goofy setup that holds mine in and I dont know what the bigger carbs have

I would check and see whats holding them up because they should be totally opened. If I get a chance I will double check mine.

What you have now sounds about right. If anything jump up on the main to be safe. I'm pretty sure my slides go all the way up on my 28's so check into that.

Yeah he's got some great deals just wish it was a Tax Return Sale *hint,hint*

Hey Kevin, I think you need to get into the Holiday mood :thumbsup:

All I can say is get ahold of them and say that you have their arms and they are bent. Dont go and say I was jumping 120' tripples and I crashed. Just say I have your arms and they bent. Also check their website for the warrenty stuff.

Lifetime against bends and breaks, just order up the heavy duty joints

I wasnt pointing at you so much as Wiz. I race harescrambles and MX so I get the whole thing of what your saying but your trying to build a Hotrod into a ferrari. Banshee are topend bikes that like to be riding up top and feather the cluth. Its like the difference between a 125 motocrosser and a 250 motorcrosser. 250's you use the throttle alot more and run through the whole powerband. 125's like to just be pinned and you feather the cluth to get them around. Now you cant just pin a banshee and play with the clutch but it is the same principle. If I wanted a quad with a broader powerband I would have gone with a 4poke or a 250R. I like the top end bike that is the banshee so I ride it the way it wants. I dont have a problem with putting a pipe on that gives a little more on bottom but putting a mid pipe on a drag ported cylinder just seems stupid to me. Like I said your trying to build a ferrari out of a Dragster and it makes no sense. Dont take a blown big block and put a full exhaust on it with a single barrel carb. Thats what you guys are doing to the Cubs.

Dude it has nothing to do with you voicing your opion. Its the way you come across man. You make yourself sound like you are the God of banshee or something. Also when a guy has only been on here a little while and starts trashing guys who do know there ish your going to be disliked. Also nobody pushed you, you just jumped in. ok now that I have that out here is my question for you. Why would you spend more money to build a motor to just detune the thing instead of building the right motor for your application for less? It makes no sense to me to go out and build a Cub motor for how ever much then put a pipe on it that detunes the motor. There are plenty of good builders out there that could build you a motor for less money thats just as relible and just as fast (if not even better for your riding style) Also to me it makes no sense to buy a bike that has a topend motor then spend tons of money to change the power delivery. If you want a bike with a broad powerband buy a 4 stroke. When ever I buy something I ride it and figure out what it likes. Once I find out what it likes I buy the parts to compliment the power curve.

Hey John, is that a stock stroke hot rod crank

Poorboy bought the bike like that and he wants to buy CPI's. He said he wants to go more for a drag bike then a woods bike. Daj said that the 33 are good for him with the CPI's. Damn dude ever thread I've seen you post in it seems like all you want to do is argue and be a general P.I.T.A. The orginal thread was that a guy has CPI and wants to try T-5 and the guys on here said that the CPI will compliment the Cub better then the T-5 thats all.

See if you can get the gap a little closer. Maybe yours just needs to be .18 not .20

Did you use a credit card or a business card? There is a big size difference

Any muscle car thats pre-emissions is a good car. MarineNYC, what is wrong with you? The guido package was only avalible with the IROC package!