hercalmighty

Hey Guys. I have some stuff to sell from after the rebuild. All prices are Shipped and OBO. I perfer paypal. Any questions just PM me. Thanks Herc Toomey T6 and silincers: $350 Stock Crank from 02': $100 Noss 20cc Domes used for 15 minutes: $50

Hey guys. Anybody have a good sprocket hub. If so give me a price shipped to 18964. Thanks

Yeah just the basic 2stroke things when rebuilding. One thing though, make sure the PV and linkage are real nice and clean. They have a tendency to gunk up and stick. Also if you have to bore it make sure that they cut the PV also. If you dont it might catch the piston and/or ring. I have owned two YZ125's, a 96' and a 07'. I loved both of them. The YZ's have a much broader powerband then the other 125's.

Yeah thats nice and clean. I was just thinking that since I also changed to more of a drag pipe that likes more fuel it would cancel out.

Im sorry man I did. It sounded like you were saying it as more of an intelligent guess then yes that is it. Plus I figured since Kevin chimed in I would ask him (he did do the porting). I just took you saying possible as you were not 100% sure. Sorry man no ill will or anything.

Yeah I dont know. Thing ran great with the 162's. When I was running the stock carbs I had 300's and the airlid on and thing ran great with that setup. My bike likes fuel I guess.

Sorry. I guess I really should be asking what is making the motor run rich now? Is it the fuel or the motor work? Just wanting to know for info reasons. I like to know WHY it is not just here is the answer. I did do the mains like you said Kevin just havent been able to go out and test yet. So its not that Im question you its just me being curius as to why.

Ok here is the deal. I had a stock motor with T6's, VF 2's, open air box and PWK 28's. I was jetted at 48 pilot, N68A needle middle clip, 162 main. The thing ran great, felt perfect. Well I went and built up the motor. I got a 4mil Herr Juggs Dune port, 21cc cut domes, +6 timing, running VP 110 at the same oil ratio as before, and CPI's. I did not change any of my jetting and now Im running rich. Is this normal? I never ran racing fuel before so I dont know if I have to rejet for that. If I do, do I go up or down with my jetting? I also heard from someone (I forget who) that stroker motors have a tendence to pull more fuel through the carbs meaning you have to lean out your carbs. Is this true? Just trying to get an idea if its the motor work and fuel or if I have a problem. Just so no one ask, the pick up gap is set at .018, carbs are clean, leak down was perfect, compression was 172 psi in both, carbs are snyched, air filter is not over oiled, new plugs. Elevation is 300-400', humidity is about 70%, temp is about 60, oil ratio is 36:1 Golden Spectro.

Ok. Do you mean yes the tors is still hooked up or its disconnected but still acting up? I was a little confused on the last post there

Do you still have your TORS hooked up? If so disconnect it

Ok. What you have to do is hold the throttle wide open and kick it over until the needle stops going up.

The topend. Piston and rings, get it bored and honed

Next question what kind of compression tester are you using? It might be the tester if the numbers are low.

We need your elevation

Hell yeah thats good. I just built mine and Im glad I did. Had an air leak around my intakes that the leakdown tester showed right away.

Yeah I ride the same stuff man. I live about 1.5 hours from Coal Region. Yeah I need good tires for hooking up there and down here around the house on the MX track. Im sure my holeshots should have been changed a couple years ago but I just run them til I really need a new set. If I get 3 years out of the GNCC's Ill be happy. I dont care what they say about you MJ, your alright in my book

Sweet thanks MJ. I was hoping someone who had used both would chime in. Yeah I want traction. How long did the GNCC's last you?

Sweet. Some good info to go on. The orginal razr's are lighter also right? Hey keep the comments coming guys

Ok Im looking for some reviews on the Razr2's vs the GNCC's. I need a new tire and right now I have standard Holeshots on the rear. I actually like these tires alot. The problem I have with them though is the lack of traction on launches and side bite in turns. I never had a problem with the side bite until I widened the banshee. Now the rear wants to come around on me so Im looking for something with a little more control. I rode a banshee with Razr2's on it and I really didnt like them because I could really feel the weight of them. I think the GNCC's are alot lighter so Im thinking of going with them. I would like to hear from you guys on what you think of the two or your reviews on either or. Please no "those tires suck" or " those tires are great". Let me know WHY they are good or bad, pros and cons, differences between the two if you have used both.

Here check this out http://www.hillclimbersforum.com/viewtopic...?f=27&t=129

Pick a builder for the porting (this took me a while since I was torn between two builders) 4mil crank with long rods (115mm rods) Weisco 795 series Pistons (buy these when from who ever ports so they can bore to the right size) these will come with wrist pin, circlips, piston rings Topend gasket kit Seal kit Cool head and domes (get the domes from the builder so they can cut them to whatever size they like) Yamabond or equal sealer for the cases Clutch cover gasket Clutch nut retainer clip Sprocket Nut retainer clip Compression Tester Leak down Tester Solder for squish test Ok thats the list of everything you will need. Now here is a list of thing you might want to get also for this build or you need to determine if you need. Heavy Duty Clutch with Heavy springs Billet impeller (will also need a water pump gasket with this) Bigger Carbs and new intakes for the carbs Lower end bearings (bearings for the gears and output shafts, Clutch lever bearing) Pancake Bearing (this replaces your little ball in the clutch) Billet water pump gear New reeds or whole reed cage

Thank You!!!!!! :biggrin: Yeah sorry for not explaining the right way. And thank you Stroker for helping me out here. Yeah I need to build one myself and the big thing was finding the right guage

Ok thats my question Doc. Doesnt that button hold the air gauge at the pressure? So if the gauge holds the pressure you put in it wouldnt show a leak right?

Great write up man. I wish you would have posted this a couple days ago before I read through 20 pages of old threads . I have a question. The tire gauge you have looks like it has an air release button on it. So doesnt that hold the pressure on the gauge until you hit the button? Or did taking out the bottom of the gauge disengage that pressure release?

Anybody have some codes to share? I need some new tires and looking for some discounts.