hercalmighty

I think your off on your figures for the ratio. Did you add in your piston dome and if you did, did you make it - the amount or did you just put it in. Make sure you put it in as a - to get the right numbers.

Yeah I havent been watching much because the racing is kind of shitty. Damn Bradshaw was great to watch. Everybody thought he was going to be the next great thing.

Yeah I get how RC is fun to watch because he almost always crashes but I loved watching MC ride. I guess after racing motocross for years I have an apprication for MC's style. I think its so much harder to be smooth and fast then just pinning it and hanging on like Bubba and young RC. It took RC a little while to figure out the slower is faster formula. Yeah RC is the king of Outdoors and MC is the supercross king. But like you said alot of the guys now just dont have the bar banging competion. You have 2-3 guys who are up top and thats it anymore. The most fun I had racing was when I got into a good bar bashing for a couple laps

Boy Daj. I dont think I could have said that any better. This is my personal opinion but I still think MC was better then RC in each others primes. When RC came up the tracks were getting faster and less technical. MC just had this sweet smooth style that was perfect for the real technical tracks. I agree if Bubba calms down just that little bit no one will touch him, plus his a Yamaha boy this year :biggrin:

Honesty I love the power hit of my T6's. They are a fun pipe. But I dont know what I want to do because I'm going to do a 4mil

The fatties are a more broad powerband with a good solid mid into top with some over rev. I put a fattie on my YZ125 and matched it to a shorty silencer because the shorty gives you a nice top range with some over rev. Its a great pipe on my 125 because the 125 has a nice linear braod powerband. Its almost more 250ish then how the other 125's are.

There are alot of guys who say this is what you need or this is what you should run. I'll be the first to admit that I do it myself some times. I'm a weird person because I like a more mid to top bike for the woods. Just like that kind of power delivery. I'm not saying I like a topend monster just a solid mid to top bike. I'm more of a person to take whatever the power delivery of the bike is and build on that. But like I said I'm a silly f-er who likes a whomp in the mid to top racing through the woods

I was refering more to the guys who usally pipe in on what you need. I like more opions just to get a better idea of whats going on.

By the way. Its nice to have a great conversasion with out a bunch of name calling and arguing. This is a fun little quiz. I wish the motor gurus would pipe up. I would like to see some more opions on the subject

Yeah I got what your doing. You want people to say I like this so you can go Ha this is what you like suckers :biggrin: If I say what I think about the wheelie thing will you say which one or are you going to let it hang for a while? I'm thinking 3 only because it has a hell of a torque curve to it and torque is what give you that umph. Thats why 4 strokes are great wheelie machines because they have a better torque to hp ratio then 2 strokes.

Hey Snop. I total agree with you 100%. You have to build a complete package or you will never have the absulte best bike you can. But you said my point to sense. I would say if you use an independent builder who is not associated with like toomey or fmf then you stand a much better chance of having the motor built to what you want and the builder recommending a pipe that will work better than anything else. I say tell the builder what you want, then run what he suggest for pipes, carbs, reeds, compression, etc...... Now I have this motor build with all the components matching perfectly with each other and I change one thing, the motor is going to be just a little off right? Your right in that your power curves might not change much but there might be a slight difference in the curves between a motor ported for a certain pipe and one thats ported for something different. Ever pipe made is different and it has a certain "timing" to it. That makes them different. Plus chamber size, stinger size and length, everything will make a difference and a port job to match all of that will make a difference in what the power curve looks like. If you port matched to the one pipe thats a little jumpy in the curve it might smooth it out and make the curve better I think my biggest problem is if you want to compare pipes and their curves doing it with a stock bike would be the best thing. You want to eliminate as many varibles as you can. Porting is a varible that can make a difference. I'm just looking at this like I'm doing a science experiment and you always have to provide a base test before you do anything else. And everything you do to that bike will influence the final result. Ok. Enough bitching. What the hell are the setups you did. Who knows you might actually change my mind on my setup

Merry Christmas Everyone :biggrin:

Dude, there is going to be a lot of things that will influence the rpm range of a pipe. There isnt a dyno chart for every pipe out there so its hard to say what excatly a pipe can do. I would love to see someone do a comarison of just pipes on a totally stock bike. dont do anything else on the bike except change the pipes and rejet to the pipe. Now I'm not saying your wrong Snop because your are a damn smart guy but Wouldnt the porting of the bike change its character which would change how a pipe would work on that bike? Also, carb setup, dome size and compression, timing, all of this is going to change how a motor runs. Setting up a drag bike, duner, and a trail bike are all going to be different so finding the right combo is the key to building the perfect bike Now with that being said that is why a good builder wants to know what pipes and carbs your running and what kind of riding your doing so he can match his port work to that setup to get the most out of it. The porting a builder does for lets say a set of T5's is going to be a little different then a set of PT mids right? So if you swicth the pipes on these two bikes your not going to get the full benifits of the combo because it slightly different. Once again Snop, your a hell of a guy and you know your shit man. I'm just playing more Devil's Advacete then anything else. There are only a couple guys on here that I truely respect they veiws and opions. Might not always agree with them but I will listen to them and I consider you one of the few. So dont think I'm being a douche just trying to put stuff out there to get some answers man Thanks Snop :beer:

Is there a way to over lay the three charts? That would make it a lot simplier to compare the three. Its hard to look at the three diferent charts at the same time. Ok I 'm being a pain here but you said the cylinders are ported right? Well if they are ported they could be ported more for one setup then the other two. In that case it would be easier to prove your point. If you port for one style of riding with a certain setup then change the setup ie. top end pipes to bottom pipes or something, the charts might be off a little. Snop I'm not saying anything bad but just throwing that out because I can bet that someone will bring it up. If you really want to prove your point I think the best thing would be to base line a totally stock bike (stock pipes,carbs, everything) then do whatever you did to your bike on the stock bike. But just keep it to the bolt ones (pipes, carb setups, or whatever) Just my little insight. You can yell at me if you want. I'm not an expert so I dont care. I just ride and race and like how my bike runs so.......

Ok here is my take. I could be totally wrong on this but. Chart one looks like more of a bottom to mid setup because its smooth in the lower rpm ranges then kind of falls off a little towards the top of the rpms. Chart two looks like a mid to top setup because it low on the bottom then actually dips a little right before you get into a stronge mid to top and it seems to have a higher peak HP with more over rev. The third chart almost looks like a setup for a drag bike or something. The powerband goes up real slow until about 7000 then Wam here we go and it just shoots up. But both 2 and 3 have that dip in the bottom of the chart right before the mid range hit. To me I like the chart two because I like a more mid to top bike but its not as steep of a climb in power as chart three. Plus it seems like the dip in three is much more pronouced then two. So if Im right do I win something? Thanks Snop for this. I like when people actually are able to prove a point with data and proof not just I like this or that

Hey Loco tell us how you really feel. I just had my first conversation with Jeff the other nite. Really cool dude and willing to help me out. I felt bad since I'm the third person he has had to talk to to get a bike going. He answered all my questions and was really cool to talk to and through it all he didnt try to sell me anything. He just want to make sure he's custmer was happy as can be with his ride. So a big :thumbsup: and to Jeff, one of the good guys

I'm still a little lost on the whole bitch feast here. Why are you so pissed about guys saying good things about FAST? Also I dont see anybody bashing any other builder on here that have good services. The only builder I've seen get a bad word on here is Flotech and really it was only like two guys with a couple other guys saying they are good.

Ok real quick. Can someone tell me what are the different thickness are and who makes each one. Like, Yamaha's OEM base gasket is ??? thick or Cosmetic's base gasket is ??? thick. Thanks

Ok I'm going through the same thing. The first letter is for the taper, taper controls the transfer from the needle to the main. The second letter is the length of the needle which controls a majority of the mid range. The last letter is the diameter of the needle which controls the transfer from the bottom into the mid. If you have the CEL go with the CGL. Thats one size leaner in the length which is what your looking for.

Ok you got me there. But your Primadonna shots himself in the leg, our old one fails at suicide. WTF Can we agree on one thing though............... COWBOYS SUX

The only way I would pay that much to see those losers was if burress would shot himself in the thigh again right on the 50 yard line :yelrotflmao: GO EAGLES

I'll try the main and see. It just runs great up top but try to get there is were the problem lies. Timing is +4 and yes I think the compression is low also. I just ran out of time to check the squish to see if it is a shaved head or stock head.

Hey Jeff. I'm just helping Hill with the bike to try and get it going. Hill said its alot better then it was but not there yet. If you can just let me know what compression and squish you want to see on your dune port bikes. I wanted to check the squish but just ran out of time for the day. If you actually want to talk about it over the phone just give me a heads up on what times are good for you. Thanks man

It seems to run great up top and down bottom its in the middle that its acting up. We were doing the roll on and it was loading up about maybe 1/2 throttle to 3/4 throttle thats why I'm thinking BGL. Since the taper controls the transfer from 3/4 to full and thats were its really bad. I'm still trying to get this thing right so all advise is great Thanks guys

Did you ride it at all when it was not quite right? I know Keihin's are a little touchy with the jetting but once you get it right they are sweet as hell. I was lucky with my 28's I just bumped up the main and they were perfect. If you did ride it was it similary to what I'm describing?