hercalmighty

When your dead

I just suggested to stay stock since he was saying he wants to drift the rear a little more. If he shortens the rear he will gain traction and not be able to kick out the rear as well. Also if he builds up his motor and gains bottom end he wont be able to keep the front down. I went to a 4mil dune port and keep my stocker with 15/41 gearing and the front wants to come up on me alot

Yes go with the +1 foward. the YFZ tires should be good. The only reason to change the steering stem is if you want anti vibe or to raise your bars. For the swinger I would leave it stock. Gearing, I went up to a 15 tooth on mine and I ride really tight woods but most guys will tell you to go down. As far as the dome size goes I need to know what elevation you are at. Most likey you'll want between a 19-21cc dome. If you are going to do a stroker over the winter I would wait to do everything in one shot. You'll be running stroker domes if you do the 4mil crank. If you want to BS about setup and stuff shoot me a PM man

Ok. Steering, lose the spacers and get extended arms. Even with +2 arms your not going to be much wider then most of the stock 4-strokes out there. The spacers are pushing your wheels out past your steering pivot whick makes your steering much heavier. If you want to stay narrow go to a 4-1 front wheel. The Rear, what tires are on the rear? If you want a tire that slides more go with a more MX tire. The motor, do not get a 2-1 pipe. The FMF's should be a good pipe. Your getting may be off. Get a timing plate and set it at +4. Buy a cool head and get some smaller domes. You have to decide if you want to run pump or race gas first before you decide on dome size. Now if you want to really get into the motor build a 4mil motor with porting. The stroker motor makes a huge difference with torque and bottom end. I just build a 4mil dune port motor with CPI pipes and the thing is even better in the woods then my stocker with T6's.

Look at the date of this thread.

Here is my cross country. Im very happy with how it came out after the rebuild. It was afraid it wouldnt be trail worthy but it is actually alot better in the woods then before. Mods: HJR 4mil dune port Noss 23cc 4mil domes (pump gas) Hot Rods 4mil crank with 115 rods Weisco 64.5mm 795 series pistons FAST heavy duty clutch with 3 HD springs CPI small bore inframes Keihin 28 PWK/ 45 pilot, N68A needle middle clip, 155 Main Drilled air box, no lid, Twin Air air filter with adapter plate 15/41 gearing Janessen +2+1 fully adjustable A arms Dominator II adjustable axle set at +4 Elka front shocks with Rezzies, preload and compression adjustable ITP Holeshot GNCC tires at all 4 corners

Must have missed that one. I asked him if it was a typo. He said no its all custom even the frame. I asked who built the frame and if it had any motor work. I havent heard back since

All I can say is WOW WTF :shoothead: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...RTQ:MOTORS:1123

What kind of riding do you do? That will help with choicing pipes. Do you plan on doing more to it?

Well I finally really got to push my motor I built over the winter. I ran everthing from fast open trails, to super tight technical stuff, to some hills and to quit a few drags. All I can say is the thing is flat out awesome. I couldnt be any happier with it. After some drags races and counting up the victims: Can Am 800 - Beat it by 10 lenghts Honda 700x - Beat it by 12 lenghts Yamaha YZ450F - Beat it by 4 lenghts FAST Dune port - 6 bike lenghts Vito's 404 Banshee - Raced twice, 1st was a killing, second had a shitty start so lost 472 T-Rex Banshee - A tire, actually a really good race In the woods it was keeping up with a well built trail Raptor and a YZ450F with a really good rider. After beating the hell out of it all weekend in all the rain and mud the thing is just eating it up. If I had some tires and a swinger it would have flew up the hills but the GNCC's just couldnt do it on the slick ass hills. I was worried I wouldnt be able to do the tight trails after all the work but it did great even with a 15 tooth front sprocket. For a recap of what I have: HJR 4mil Dune Port 4mil Hot Rods Crank 115 rods 64.5mm 795 series Weisco Pistons Chariot Head with 23cc 4mil cut domes (pump gas) Keihins PWK 28's with air box no lid foam Twin Air filter CPI inframes FAST heavy duty clutch with 3 HD springs 15/41 gearing Janessen +2+1 fully adjustable arms Elka front shocks, preload and compression adjustable with rez Dominator II rear axle set at +4 GNCC tires all around

Is your pick-up gap set right?

So what does East Coast do? Were they just giving him money? I know they build alot of guys bikes, a couple being on the MX and GNCC national circuit. I dont think they do the motors though.

Im thinking if it was really Chris's bike that it would be East Coast ATV selling it since they were the ones who would have built it. Just my opinion.

Lots of hills and trails. Just a bunch of guys getting together and riding. The permits are $100 and you need Regisration and Insurance on the quad. The office is only open Monday- Friday, 9:00am- 5:00pm.

I went with Kevin. I got a 4mil Dune Port matched for CPI's. Im very impressed with the way it hits. I was expecting a nasty rush from the mid to top but its so smooth that its almost deceiving. I really like it alot. I would love to try some other builders bikes though to really see how they compare.

On your CEN needle, where is your clip? If you your not in the top or bottom postion then dont worry about a longer or shorter needle. Just move your clip down one position (down towards taper = Richer, Up towards bunt end = Leaner)

Yes it sounds like an air leak. Its like your dieseling or something. I would check for air leaks and do a pressure test real quick. Also maybe check and make sure your floats arent sticking and making act like its running out of fuel. Just some quick thoughts for ya.

+1 Bought YFZ450 brales and hubs form him. Fast shipping and came in great condition

There really is no such thing as a powerband. The "powerband" is just your rpm/hp curve like you see on a dyno. To see the powerband compare the dyno chart of a 4stroke to that of a banshee. The 4stroke will be really smooth over the entire rpm range where the banshee's will be real low through the bottom on the rpm curve then it will shoot up really fast. This spike in power is what the "powerband" refers to when talking 2strokes. Your "powerband" will be determined by many things like pipes, carbs, porting, timing, compression, etc. There isnt anything that "activates" the powerbands.

They are good from January to December Im pretty sure. Its not one year from purchase

Ill take the GNCC over the Razr2's just for the weight difference. I guess Im use to running my tires way down before I change them. I had my old holeshots on my banshee for 6 years so if I can get another 6 out of my GNCC's Im happy. For the record I do race harescrambles and ride in extremey rocky areas.

I just got some ITP GNCC tires and they kick ass. A hell of a lot lighter then Razr2's and just as much bite if not more. They just dont last quit as long.

Could you possible take a pic of your carbs and a pic of your spark plug ends ( the threaded end). Maybe you have after market carbs and you dont know it. If you have Keihin carbs the jets will be way different from the stockers. Now with out sounding like a dick, why are you coming on here asking for jetting specs then telling us we are wrong. Your mechanic put 190 mains in your bike and it runs like crap.

Just a little if any.

Another choice is the chariot head. Both the Noss and Chariot heads are nice because you dont have to change the head studs. The big difference between the Noss and Chariot is the Noss is a two piece design and the Chariot is one piece. Both are great heads so its up to you.