RollinRhino

I'm seeing a lot of fun on two wheels there!

Use what I use: a small oil filter wrench. Can be bought at any auto parts store for under $20

Yamalube. 32:1 with at least premium if not race fuel. Sunoco is good race fuel.

As long as it hasn't been opened it should be fine. The metal can the gas comes in can condensate under changing temps, but a little dry gas would fix that as an insurance policy. You should be okay using it.

But how does she run in sand? :biggrin:

My Banshee has a stock motor on it and a buddy I ride with has an '07 stock YFZ and I have never taken him in any scenario be it MX, trails, or just drag racing. I think with pipes, carbs, and some cleaning up on the cylinder I could take him in a drag race.

sounds like the ignition might not be advancing correctly. Check the plug wire running from the coil to the left plug, check the plug, the spark. It could be coincidence that suddenly it isn't running right but it sounds like the firing isn't good.

that is handy info! I did not know Yamaha would do that. Do they charge for it?

The factory has the carbs jetted for 32:1 mix. Start from there.

You can hand port a set of heads for a V8 engine. I know because I have done it, but a two stoke engine can't be done by hand. You definitely need a pro with a computer based program to optimize the cylinder flow. Don't cut corners on this one. You'll only screw your engine up.

CDI is the one part that their is not a way to test it. Either take his and put the CDI on a banshee that runs or take a good CDI and put it on his.

Popping is also a timing issue perhaps. Change to a known good CDI and try running it. The CDI controls ignition timing and when those go the engine pops and dies. Also the pickup on the stator can be toast.

Here is schematic for your waterpump. Yes, change the bearing as their is not a good reason to not do it. More than likely the bearing/seal is next to shot. Official Banshee Water Pump Schematic

One of the guys I raced MX with worked in Evinrude's product develpment department and would give a great rundown on the myths of two stroke mixing ratios. In test after test the best mix they came up with even with synthetic oil was 28:1 with 112 octane fuel. Octane rating has no bearing on the ratio for mixing but their is a myth that lower than 32:1 is too much oil, but too little fuel can blow the pistion. You can't over lubricate a two stroke. The oil is designed to seperate into the crankcase for proper lubrication when the reeds do their air/fuel mixing. The only benefit to running 40:1 is that you use less oil and it is easier on the wallet. Evinrude's official fuel was Cam2 with BelRay H1R. (not my favorite oil by any means) Nowadays he runs VP C12 and since then I switched also to VP when I can afford it. Today's synthetic oils are a lot more advanced but the theory is the same. The main benefit to running 32:1 is when breaking in a new top end the rings seat better. Can you run 40:1 and have the motor last? Yes, you can provided you jetted the machine with a 40:1 mix. Since most of us don't own 50K dollar racing engines we aren't as vulnerable to the kind of damage a high compression two stroke motor is. Basically I was told to have your machine dynotuned for jetting and use the ratios from that point on as "The Gospel". Example: You put on pipes and higher compression domes for your rod and you have the machine dyno tuned with 50:1 mix, you can't just decide on a whim to go to 32:1 mix because now you are leaner on fuel and this will cause problems. At Evinrude the machines were dynotuned at 28:1 so the variable could be as high as 32:1 or as low as 20:1 with out damage due to a lean condition. HAVE YOUR MACHINE DYNOTUNED PROFESSIONALLY FOR THE RATIO YOU LIKE TO RUN AND YOU WON"T GET HURT. Detonation is a real problem with two strokes that many people aren't aware of. Their is a world of difference in a two stroke having 9:1 compression and a four stroke with the same ratio. The two stroke is more easily damaged from detonation and needs fuel with a higher flash point. Avoid 93 octane if you can help it. It is killing your motor. Like it or not you need race fuel for that thing. However read this post on another website for some good info on the proper mixing ratios: Two Stroke Mixing by someone who knows what he is talking about I agree with the Klotz post: That oil is by far the sweetest smelling oil when it burns and I love getting behind someone when they are using it. My preference is Yamalube. I never foul a plug with it and you can buy it by the gallon for around 20 bucks.

The Banshee had a long run of success on the same basic design.

Run ATF (Automatic Trans Fluid) through it for about an hour riding and drain. That will get most of it out, the rest will come out in time as you change the gear oil regularly. Here is the schematic for your water pump: WaterPump Schematic Part Number 3 is what is probably done. Also buy a new bearing when replacing the seal.

450 is giving it away. They need cash and are tired of seeing it. Buy it.

The pictures are of wrecked Banshees. Or most of them are. Funny thing is that I have seen other quads look far worse from less abuse. If you wreck anything hard enough it will look like crap. I agree, it has to be a banned member or someone that had their a$$ handed to them in a race.

I would have to put a steering stabilizer on mine to handle the roads. Where you live at in Indiana? I live near Muncie.

Envy. Pure and simple. I respect what kind of power a big jugged four stroke makes, but cc for cc the Banshee can't be beat. All people can do is get made over it.

Welcome Noobs!

Water Pump seal is shot. That is coolant in your gear oil. Your clutch has lost life. Pressure test the coolant system with the drain plug off of the tranny. If you are losing pressure this is all fixable but a pain.

Thor Quadrants also Answer Gear (RockStar jersey, pants, gloves) AXO knee pads HJC lid

Ran junk in my CR once....once. Yamalube shipped to your door might be a better option.

When I get aftermarket pipes I'm going ProCircuit. Just to be different. :biggrin: