nfk

If you want to keep the heims I think American Star has them.

I had a similar problem, I tested everything and it tested good. I swapped flywheels with a buddy and it still wouldn't spark. I then swapped the CDI and that was the problem. You cant test it, you just have to try a different one that you know works. Some of the years have different connections so you have to check which one you have.

I have used RMATV and different site sponsors, Like Loco said it just depends on what you are buying. The sponsors will be able to get you anything for your Banshee, you just have to ask and shop around. I have never used Dennis Kirk.

I sand blasted it myself, but the powder coat for the frame, all four hubs, the sprocket hub,and the brake hub was $200. Black would have been $100

I had a local guy powder coat my frame candy apple red. He plugged all the threads and bearing areas. He also said that the candy colors are a 3 step process. I don't know much about powder coat so I just took his word for it. He said there was base coat, color coat, and clear. It turned out pretty good so I guess he knew what he was doing.

I have a Mac compression gauge too,(non digital). I like it.

I am looking for a billet Axle nut for a stock axle.

I thought 260 sounded lean...I will have to get some bigger jets and start messing with it when I get it back together

I just got another banshee from a guy that had it tore apart. I am in the process of rebuilding it and getting it running again. It has stock carbs, K&N pods, T5's, boysen reeds, and a port which he thought was a dune/play port. My elevation is 2000'. I tore the carbs apart and saw that he was running 260 mains. This seems lean to me, he said it ran good when it ws together. I will be doing a plug chop when it is together but I just wanted another opinion on the Mains or if I should try starting out a little richer.

I also have ASR a-arms and I like them. I have only had them for about a year but I have had no problems. I talked to them on the phone a few times and I thought they were very easy to deal with. Like others have said it takes a while to get them adjusted but once they are on they work good.

I've used cheapcycleparts too and have had very good luck.

I plan on borrowing a working coil from a friend to check it out. The weird thing about the key switch was that it was working fine the day before this all happened, thats how i always shut it off. I checked the pickup gap and it was .028"

My Banshee has been hard to start and not firing evenly. When it is reved it misses worse. Then when it is running it will not shut off with the key switch, only the kill switch works. I tested both switches and they are fine. I tested the stator and it is within spec. I then took off the coil and it tested fine on the Primary test, but showed no continuity on the Secondary test, with or without the plug caps. So I have narrowed it down to the coil being bad but my question is if the key switch problem could at all be related to the bad coil. I was just checking if anyone else has any ideas. My bike has K&N pods, t5's, and the wiring for the Tors was removed by the previous owner. When I was Tearing all the electrical apart I noticed that he had spliced the two wires together on the wiring harness where the throttle switch was plugged in. I have never heard of having to splice any wires when doing the tors removal, and I was wondering if this is necessary. Thanks for any help.

The last time I rode I noticed the lights getting dimmer and dimmer when the bike was idleing but they looked fine when running at higher RPM's. the next morning I went out to start it and it would not start. it always starts in 3-4 kicks. When i pulled it with another bike to start it it fired right up. When I finally got it running it would run ok at anything above an idle but at an idle it would die. I tried a new set of plugs and had the same problems. I was thinking maybe the stator but I was looking for any advice for other places to look. The bike is mostly stock with tors removed, and pipes. Thanks.

I know its not a banshee but I thought someone might be able to help. I just had an RM 125 given to me that has been sitting for quite some time. It has a Mikuni TM carburetor. I cleaned the carburetor and put everything back together but it only idles with the choke out. It will rev fine and it will run without the choke at higher rpms but wont idle. I tried to adjust the air screw but I still cant get it to idle. I tried to ride it but it just bogs down and has no low end power. I am going to tear the carburetor back apart and clean it again, but I thought maybe I was missing something. Thanks for any help.