2001Stroker

The key grounds the CDI, when you turn it to the on position. Your key switch probably took a crap. Either that, or one of the two wires has a break in it somewhere. To diagnose the key switch, unplug it. Make a jumper wire. The bike will not run, with the switch unplugged. Now, take your jumper wire, and jump it across the two terminals that have the Black/Red Stripe wire, and the Black/White Stripe wire. Now, crank up the motor. With the engine running, take the jumper wire out. That should kill the bike. If that works, your key switch is bad.

Wow. I can't beieve they hung up on you. They should know which size you need. What a dick.

Apparently, it's not a 4mil. Oh, and it has 30mm carbs, not 28.

Damn, that's a good deal. Those cranks are about $1,200 now. I just bought one myself. Nice piece.

I think it's dragbanshee1996 that's selling a set of trenched cases. They're trenched for a 7mil, but you can cut them a little deeper. And don't forget, you have to bore the top case to fit those big ass 73mm sleeves.

How big of a budget? And, do you strictly drag race?

Unplugging the brake light shouldn't do anything, but disconnect the light itself. Something's gotta be shorting out in that circuit. I'd almost bet that the wire coming from the lever to the light is pinched somewhere, and it is grounding out.

I think it's a waste of money, and slows the flow. The last thing you want for your motor to do, is run dry at 8,000rpm. If you have the stock fuel valve, you might want to also invest in a Pingel fuel valve.

I seen about 6 months ago, where someone was running those e3 spark plugs. Haven't heard anything about them though. Looking at their cross reference, the e3.31 replaces the B9ES, B8ES, and BR7ES. So, I don't know how that works. http://www.e3sparkplugs.com/ Cross Reference Page

Welcome to the site. If it has no compression on the left side, I would offer him no more than $1,000. See where it goes from there.

Is that the coolhead that's actually 2 seperate heads with cooling fins on it? One head for each jug, with a hose connecting them? If so, the concept is neat and different, but if you do any trail riding or offroading, you might reconsider. Those cooling fins will get clogged up with dirt and mud, and in turn make your head hold heat. You don't want that.

Damn, I just bought some stuff from them last month. Shipped fast, and everything looks good. It was brand new stuff though.

Yea, sorry. I moved all my electronics up behind the radiator. I grounded my CDI through the bolt hole for the coil. But, yes. You got it right.

Yes. I just had to do that last night to make mine fire. Don't forget the ground wire that goes to the mounting bolt.

Also, if the guage that you're using has shorter threads than your spark plugs, it will read low.

16cc domes with 110 octane? You're gonna be detonating like a champ. I'm also wondering about your elevation.

Damn dude. That thing turned out nice. Good job on the build.

Are you saying that the seal is definitely popped out? If so, try to pop it back in with a rubber mallot. I would also check the neutral safety switch cover plate. That has an o-ring on it.

Just splice it right into your taillight wire. It doesn't matter about having a battery. Only difference is, it will have a little bit of a flicker while the engine is idiling.

I'll keep her in my thoughts, for sure. Sorry to hear such a tragic thing happened. Hopefully she recovers fast.

The ejection port cut-out on the forend of the Super Magnum is longer, since it accepts 3-1/2" shells. Super Mag forends will work on 2-3/4" and 3" guns, but Express and Express Magnum won't work on a Super Magnum. Most aftermarket forends are cut-out for 3-1/2" shells, just so they will work on any of them. Long story short, any of those two above will work.

You can go up to .100 over. I wouldn't go past .080 though. Do you need to go to .060? What size bore is in it now? You should only bore to the size that's neccessary to get rid of any screwed up spots in the cylinders. Take the jugs to a machinist, and get him to measure the bore. He'll tell you what size you need to go to.

Cut the plastic plug off, that plugs into the key switch. The brown and red wires go to absolutely nothing. Once you cut the plug off, all that's left is Red/Black stripe, and Black. Tie those two together. Done.

lol.