2001Stroker

Those are bright as shit. I have one question though. Why do they require a conversion? Every LED I've ever seen will run off AC or DC power.

Off subject, but mine lasted for well over a year. Mounted in the stock location. Still good too. Took one lens off to clean the mud out, and didn't screw the ring back on all the way. I lost the ring holding the lens and bulb in. Never found it. The other one still kicks though.

WOW! I can't believe the odasity of him hanging up on you. That's fucked up man. I hope you at least get something out of it.

RZ has power valves, and alot more electrical components.

In at the top? Or, in at the front? Top, I would say spindle's bent. Bottom, I would say tie rod out of adjustment.

I think it's 2004 and up have a brake light. Everything else is taillight only. That diagram is the only one for your bike. The yellow coming from the stator, is constant hot. It "Y"'s off. One way is also yellow, which goes to your light switch. That turns Yellow/Red at a weatherproof plug, behind the radiator. The other side of the "Y" is blue. The blue goes to the voltage regulator, which has to be hooked up, or your going to fry all of your lights. That grounds through the mounting bolt, so make sure it has a clean mounting surface. Coming out of the light switch is green, yellow, and blue. Green is to low beams, yellow is to high beams, and blue is to the taillight. Every light on the bike also has a black wire. That's the ground. It can be frame grounded, tied into another black wire, or the black wire going back into the stator. If your bike does not have the colors that's on that diagram, then someone cut out some wires and replaced them with a different color. When I shortened my harness, deleted TORS wiring, and moved the CDI/regulator/coil, I made my own diagram. I used the same colors as stock, just so I didn't get them mixed up. If you decide to rewire everything, here's the diagram that I made.

If you're not going to true it and weld it, I wouldn't go any smaller than 20cc's. With 20's, you could run 50/50 93/110 and be plenty safe. You don't gain power simply by using higher octane fuel. Higher compression makes a little more lowend torque, but you typically lose redline RPM's.

Sounds like you need to split the cases. Like Woolfman said, stop trying to turn it over. You're just going to cause more damage doing that. Get the jugs off and the cases apart. You might get lucky, and a piece of the reed is wedged in the crank, keeping it from turning over. As far as just loosing compression, sounds to me like it leaned and popped a piston. Or, that screw head that's flopping around punched a hole in it. So many things that could've happened. You need to get it apart ant inspect everything. I think you're going to be rebuilding the whole motor though.

What size bore is it? Bigger bores use bigger domes for race fuel compressions. What stroke does it have? What elevation are you at? What's your normal air temperature? What is your timing set at? All of these things play a part in what domes you need to use.

Any all black wire on the bike is a ground. Yellow/Red is the hot wire to your light switch. The 2 blue wires in the bottom pic, connect together. That's the voltage regulator. You're going to have to use this diagram to figure out the rest. It's kind of hard to see what's going on in those pics.

Call Andy at M&M. I bought my billet ones from him. They come with interchangeable boots, just like Boss and Pro-Design intakes. They move the carbs up and back, to clear the clutch actuator. I think they were right around $150.

I hava a fairly new clutch cable off my 2001. It was bought last summer, and only has about 30 hours on it. $12 shipped.

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Use the wires that go to the stock kill switch. Then, if you want to totally get rid of the key switch, ground the Red/Black wire coming out of the CDI.

That's very good. You're allowed 1psi drop every minute. Your motor is tight.

When you posted this thread, you didn't have to search it. There was several topics regarding your question, that was on the first page of Repairs And Mods, and on General Discussion. End of discussion.

Hell yea man. You deserve every bit of it, and more.

Excuse the fuck out of me, you fucking asshole. I said "not to be a dick, but this has been covered in about 10 different threads in the past week." In other words, go to one of those other threads, and find out the answer to your already answered fucking question. No reason for you to get pissy. Actually, no reason for this thread. It's been answered already.

Blowit, I see where you're coming from. R. Rollins, I agree with most of your post. But, coming from someone with alot of experience in the legal field, I say hire a lawyer and let him do all of the leg work. Don't call them anymore. Let the lawyer do it. And don't get one of those "you lose, we don't get paid" lawyers. Pay one up front. In Civil Court, traffic and criminal decisions are not admissable in court. Criminal, Civil, J&DR, and Traffic are all courts of "No Record" The decisions made in any of those courts can not be brought up in another court, nor can it be brought up in Circuit/Superior Court (whichever you call it in your state). So, a conviction in any of those can not be brought up in Civil Court. Also, in Civil Court, you only have to proove 51% probability that it was the defendant's fault, or money is owed. Whereas in any other court, you have to proove 90% probability. You do have a good case. You just have to get a decent lawyer.

The Tusk that I have, only kills the engine when the tether is pulled. Bumping it doesn't kill it.

Yup, that's what the Banshee motor is based off of. If anyone buys them, you needs to get the RZ cases and wiring harness also.

Seriously, not to be a dick, but this has been covered in about 10 different threads in the past week. Cheetah is the way to go, if your riding trails/hillclimbs. Just don't buy from Trinity. High prices and customer service sucks. Call Andy at M&M ATV.

PM sent. 1st dibs, if it has the rods I need.

I just wired in the Tusk T-1502 lanyard kill. It feels like it's going to last, and was only $19.99 from RMATV. The spring in it is very strong. It takes alot to pull the key out, so it's not gonna just fall out if it gets caught on something. Haven't heard any reviews on it, but I figured I'd give it a try.

Mine have been flipped for the last season. The wheel bearings are shit now. My advice, keep the center of the wheels as close to the center of the spindle as possible. Alot less stress on everything. Luckily, I haven't had anything major happen from it. Now that I got extended a-arms, they're going back to normal.