2001Stroker

I've never had a problem taking them out. Never needed penetrating oil neither. That's just me though. You just double-nut them, and screw them out. You have to jamb the nuts together, and unscrew with the bottom nut using an open-ended wrench. Takes just a few minutes.

Crankcase breather tube? Or, the radiator overflow tube? My crankcase breather tube in the back just goes straight down. The front one goes up to behind the radiator. Now, the radiator overflow goes straight down, and is zip tied to the frame.

What year Banshee do you have? The j-arm years are different.

Call BOSS and tell them they leak. Maybe they'll exchange it.

Piece of cake man. Just use that schematic that I gave you, and you're good to go. Take your time, and do it right. Like Kaos said, make sure you have good grounds. Then, you're all set.

Sorry for what you've been through with family or friends being over there. I myself have family and several friends over there, and I have had friends die over there. I look at it like this.......I live in one of the biggest military places in the US. I know several people who are in the military, that would rather be there fighting a war, than being here in the states. All of them are either my family, friends, or co-workers. Do I worry about them? Of course. But, it's a choice that they made. You can only thank the people who are over there serving our country. No matter what the reason is. Anyone that joins the military can pretty much bet that they will be activated or deployed. Especially if they choose a front line M.O. That's why we have the military, to fight for what we believe in. All we can do is, hope that all of our friends and family return safe.

I re-used the same plugs that were already on the bike from the factory. You ain't gonna need any more of the colored wires, if you shorten the harness. You'll only need some black wire. Solder all the joints with some flux-core solder and put heat shrink tubing over them. Stock uses 14guage wire, but I beefed my grounds up with 12guage. Here's what I cut out of mine. Didn't have to add anything but black.

No prob.

Here's a coue I took during my teardown process. Hope it helps.

Yes, 4mil crank. The rod pins are moved 2mm further to the edge of the crank webbing. That makes the pistons go up 2mm's more, and down 2mm's more, making the stroke 4mm's more than stock. Stock stroke is 54mm, and a 4mil is 58mm.

x2

That's fucking hot man. I also thought you were putting it in your Banshee. Looks good.

Absolutely. Here's my harness schematic that I made, after I cleaned it all up. If you want to get rid of your key switch, take the Red/Black Stripe wire coming from the CDI, and ground it.

Pull the radiator cover off. There is a weather-resistant plug behind there, going to the light switch. Sometimes the wires will get corroded in there. I would also check the ground and the switch.

I never get that much time out of gas. Maybe 1 hour per tank, if I'm lucky.

Damn, I've never had a problem with them. I've bought all kinds of shit from them to.

I have a stock 41-T for a 6 bolt hub. You can have it, just pay to ship it.

I've probably got these links posted in about 30 different threads man. But, here ya go. The Blaster pistons use approximately -1.5cc Piston Head Volume. That number changes slightly with different bores. It has to be a negative number for domed pistons. Stock style pistone are approximately -1.2cc. Metric Conversion Calculator Compression Calculator

There's one in the for sale section. Top end, servos, wiring, and a few other things, I think.

When you put the new float valves in, did you adjust them to where they need to be? Also, 90psi is way low. Did you use a good name brand guage? Not sure if you know, but you have to kick these motors over about 15-20 times to get the guage to stop. And with the throttle pinned.

ahh, gotcha.

Your static compression (engine not running) is going to be about 10.4:1. You need to call Kevin, and get the port duration. You need that for the Dynamic compression (engine running). Plus the rods stretch a little bit while it's running. 93 octane is good up to 10.5:1, at sea level, and 0 degrees of timing. With your dynamic compression ratio, +5 timing (which is actually 22 degrees advanced at 1000rpm), you're going to need about 104 octane. If you can't find that, 110 will do just fine.

You really need to find out what your compression ratio is. That's the only way to find out what octane you need. You can have 145psi, but 12:1 ratio, so you need 110 octane. On the other hand, you can have 165psi, but have 10.5:1, so 93 will work for you. It all depends on ratio, timing, port duration, temperature, humidity, and elevation. You can't base octane needs on cranking compression. You need to know the ratio.

That' what I used to have. Works great. Just 1" heater hose and hose clamps.

I just used the original mounting bolt. Forced it through the hole on the wally-world lights, and screwed it into the stock mount. Redneck, but it worked, and they didn't move.